Here is a pic of the fuel cell. It uses about 1/2 of the jug on 3 250 shot passes. Easy to see the level without removing the cap.

That is what I was thinking.

AS already mentioned 2-3 times. A standalone like this is not necessary and you are just adding weight and complicating your set up. Run your main fuel line to a log and then mount regs for motor and nitrous off that. KISS

When I was spraying, I ran a holley black pump with a single line from the main fuel tank to a Magnafuel log, with a regulator for the engine and another for the nitrous. Simple, easy, and much cleaner in my opinion. Was more then enough to supply a .73 jet in my cheater plate for a 408 sb

This is good advice!!, i did install a hidden system and bought everything through nitrous outlet. I did a puck inside the intake, put there plastic fuel cell with pump inside the fender. Noids were under the dash and it worked great. Won a lot of races with it.

The reason i did a stand alone fuel cell is i wanted to run pump gas in main tank tank, and compression was already 11.7. So i put race gas in fuel cell to help bump up octane and avoid detonation.

The reason i did a stand alone fuel cell is i wanted to run pump gas in main tank tank, and compression was already 11.7. So i put race gas in fuel cell to help bump up octane and avoid detonation. [/quote]

^^ This ^^

^^ This ^^ [/quote]

Yes that can work.....however most pumpgas engines will run faster on pump gas. Adding race fuel is just a substitute for the proper amount of timing retard. My sons duster, race gas 11.40's all pump gas 11.15 case closed . Now if your already borderline on your tune up, even on motor your risking running it on pump gas. The motor needs the same octane on motor or nitrous. I know this may spark a debate, but im pretty sure thats how it is. Retarding timing AND adding race fuel to the mix will slow the car down, you really dont need both , just one or the other...

Just for an example, my engine makes the best NA HP at 42* , with the plate on the timing is 9* no added octane, just lots of retard. AND yes thats the same fuel NA and with N20

My reasoning was the fuel system was at its limits n/a.

5/16 fuel line, mechanical pump and a stock tank.

n20mstr


Could post a pic of the fuel log and regulators?

Thinking adding n2o to my ride as well.

Here's my setup. Stock tank w/ a sump, two -10 lines to the A1000 pump on the frame rail, one -10 up to the fuel log. Two Holley 803 regulators (one for the carb, other for N2O solenoid). The Aeromotive return regulator on the end of the log sets the head pressure on the log and obviously returns fuel to the tank through a -8 line.

Even though my hemi is a pump gas motor, I spray it on race fuel only. I'd rather have the cushion there and make my tuning window wider. Hurting pistons is expensive.

Yes that can work.....however most pumpgas engines will run faster on pump gas. Adding race fuel is just a substitute for the proper amount of timing retard. My sons duster, race gas 11.40's all pump gas 11.15 case closed . Now if your already borderline on your tune up, even on motor your risking running it on pump gas. The motor needs the same octane on motor or nitrous. I know this may spark a debate, but im pretty sure thats how it is. Retarding timing AND adding race fuel to the mix will slow the car down, you really dont need both , just one or the other...

Just for an example, my engine makes the best NA HP at 42* , with the plate on the timing is 9* no added octane, just lots of retard. AND yes thats the same fuel NA and with N20 [/quote]

And that IS exactly it Nitrous doesn't care what fuel you use, timing is everything when things get more serious.