That's why I asked him about what Team G. I have read the Team G dominator was a very good intake not so much for the 4150.

I would put the aluminum heads on, and whatever you need to do with headers

What Don says!

Sorry just saw it's a b-body. You said 70 plymouth at 3100 some pounds and I assumed a-body.

I know good headers are expensive, but thats the thing that jumps out to me a good race header.

However the aluminum heads are sitting there. I would think you would need to change the cam to take full advantage of them though like a Howards 721602-08

I used to be right where you are now.'72 Cuda, 440 w/stock 906 heads &.557 MP solid cam. I "borrowed" (try before you buy kinda deal) a set of ported (somewhat) 452's, This was back in the early 90's. As I was changing the heads, I noticed that my cam had a lobe down. Only cam that was available to get me going by fri was a .590 solid lift MP. I changed both the cam & heads and went from 7.20's to 6.90's. And my converter was an old worn out GER. I have always run the 2" Hooker super comp headers, so I can't tell you how much of a difference that would make. I also used to run 5.13:1 rear gears, but I switched to 4.56:1 years ago. The 727 has a LOT lower 1st gear than a 2 speed racing transmission does. Don't let your bowtie buddys tell you that you HAVE to have all that rear gear, you don't. And your tires will thank you.

Good luck, Brian

What are your E.T.s with the different 60' times? I would think that 1.51 60' would get the same amount or more off the E.T. vs a 1.63 60' all other things being equal. So, shaving a tenth or .15 off the 60' should get you where you want to be. At 3100lbs, improving the 60' should not be that hard.

Then again, if you already have the heads and don't mind committing them to this project, that is a good route, too. Which route is the easiest for you?

If you have the time, what I would do is advance the cam timing 4 degrees and just see what happens. I built a road runner for a guy with just about the same combination, and it went 6.90 on a good cool day. I had a Howards cam approximately same lift and duration with a 108 center installed at 106. The heads you mentioned might get you the tenth you need. I have seen converters pick them up a lot as well. You did not mention your MPH for the 7.15ET. What I usually look at is is the MPH high for the et? If it is then usually some tuning and adjusting is in order. If the MPH is right for the et, then usually you have to do something to make more HP to see improvements. Wallace calculators are free

For a while the Team G intakes were notorious for having core shift issues. How is the port alignment on yours?

I think you'd gain a bit from a smaller tire due to the weight alone, and moving to a radial has proven worth the switch from what I've seen.

You have a lot of good suggestions here that will help, one good thing about swapping to ethanol is you don't have to tear into the motor. More than one way to skin this cat so it's up to what route works best for you.

OP, do you know where your cam is intake lobe center is? If not take the time to learn now how to find out and make sure it is advanced on the intake lobes from 3 to 6 degrees closer to TDC than it is now. If it is at max lobe lift at 110 ATDC or more then move it closer to TDC. 107 to 105 ATDC.
Little things can mean a lot
Have you tried different launch RPM yet? If not do that also, seeing your 60 ft. times varying from 1.61 to 1.5? makes me think you have ET available to go quicker in both the 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile.
I try to focus on the reaction time and 60 ft. times when wanting to go faster and win more races, also try different shift RPM in 1st and 2nd gear and look at the complete time slip when your doing that testing Knowledge is power
How much total timing and how much timing below your current stall RPM?

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I will give a few more details. This car was built in 2000, and I knew very little about cars at that time. Everything I learned was by trial and error and the internet. Parts for Mopars were not easy top come by, the only aftermarket heads were INDY and so you basically had to build a set of your own. Bullet Bob Reed ported my heads and I paid a few bucks for them. The upgraded heads took me from the 7.45 range down to 7.22. I raced it for about 10 years, but most of that time I focused on helping my Dad with his 1974 Barracuda. We built this car after mine 1970, and fixed all the dumb mistakes I made when I built my car. His is NOT cut in any areas, still has all the glass and door structure. Still has the full trunk lid with hinges, and we were still able to get it down to a 6.65 sec in the 1/8th. The big difference at that time was his cam, which was the .620 Mopar purple cam. He ran the .456 rear and used a spool. He also ran radials from the start. His intake was complete crap and his headers were the same 1 7/8 headers, but his car felt like a Pro-Mod to me when I would drive it. I figure it made about 50 more HP than mine, and everything behind the motor paid the price. We tore up the transmission, the drive shaft, the rear end, and an axle. We raced a bunch in NC, Piedmont, Farmington, Mooresville and Rockingham. I dedicated the last 6 years from 2004-2010 helping Dad and getting his car right because I knew my time would come one day.

From 2010 till now our cars have basically sat in the garage waiting. Dad got sick with pulmonary fibroses 4 years ago, and watching him slowly loose his battle with this disease was very difficult. He passed away at Christmas last year (2020) in the middle of all this covid mess. My sister is getting his Barracuda, so that car is not an option for me. I will get the rear-end, and maybe eventually the motor, but I am now focused on getting my car safe and up to date. I figure running the 7.0 class and doing footbrake bracket racing will be enough for now.

Now it is time for me to take my car and move it to Georgia where I have lived for the past 7 years. We do not have the same number of quality tracks here as in NC, and in fact we are loosing Commerce later this season. I have visited Paradise dragway and Brainerd, and hope to run at both these tracks, as well as taking the car back to NC to race some. I want to get the car legal to run a NHRA track so I can run Commerce at least once before they close it.

A lot has changed in the past 10 years. The sport seemed to almost die, and then this outlaw racing has been a bit of a savior for it. I went to my first Outlaw race last month in Brainerd and it was very impressive. The thing is folks seem to have moved away from bracket racing and more towards the index classes like 7.0 and 6.0 heads-up, pro tree. That is why I am looking to pick up a bit, to have more options on when I can race.
My car was VERY GOOD as a bracket car. My last real race was Mopars at the Rock in 2010 where I won three rounds and lost in the third round with a MOV of only .0048. That day the car ran 7.17, 7.17, 7.17, 7.15, 7.18, 7.16. Since that time I did replace the front part of my motor with aluminum parts, (Water Pump, WP Housing, and Radiator), so I believe I have dropped 15 lbs there.

The current plan is to bring the car to Ga. this weekend, and fix a few things and try to have it at Caffine and Octane at the drags at Atlanta Motor speedway on 6/15. If we run it there, I will post the results and maybe some pictures. Glad to be back in the racing game, and I appreciate all the advice I plan to continue to listen to folks and learn.

https://www.caffeineandoctane.com/caffeine-and-octane-at-the-drags

Thanks Cab_Burge. I will try to learn more about the exact timing of my cam. I have to admit, this is not something I have ever messed with. The cam is exactly as it was when I bought this car in 1999. I will look into this more and see if there is any time to be had there. The only thing I ever do is go through and adjust the valves on a regular basis since this is a mechanical cam.

MPH through the traps is consistently 96 MPH. Only ran a 97 three times.

I should also mention one area that has been difficult for me is tuning the Carb. I battle some degree of hesitation off the line from time to time and chase it by changing the jets. I can usually get the car right after two runs if I need to adjust the jetting, but I am sure this is an area I need to get better at, and ultimately find the root cause for the issue. I have changed squirters, pumps, adjusted the fuel level and the pump arms on the Holley. I still feel I have a lot to learn on the Carb.
Despite all the problems I have talked about, my win ratio was about 40% over 120 rounds of competition I can find documentation for. Not great, but for no more racing than I have done, not the worst either.

Last note and then I am going to bed. I am really leaning towards yanking the heads and trying the Eddys. I will need to buy new headers to use them anyway, so putting them on this car vs another seems like the best option for now.
Once I get the car back to where I feel safe and stable with it, this is likely the course of action I will take to try to get it down to 7.0.

I still want to hear opinions, and I will post and keep everyone up to date on the results.

Thanks to all.

I'd do the heads since you have them, but I'd give it more stall. 4500 would be my choice.

Sounds like a cool car. Post a pic.

After reading your last couple of posts,I think your goal can be achieved with some tuning. B/4 you start throwing $ at it. Then do the head swap esp since considering a cam change at this time is not good idea because of the shortages and lack of options.

I'd do the head swap and see what that gains you. If you still need a little more ET I'd get a better/looser convertor. When my car ran 7.0-7.1s my 60ft was typically 1.51-1.53. I don't think you'd seen a big improvement from 1 7/8 to 2" headers. I went from 1 3/4" TTI to 2" hooker fenderwell and I might've picked up a tenth if I"m lucky in the 1/4. I have a .040 440 10.9:1 MP .557 cam, Trick Flow 240, Victor Intake, Proform 850, 727 with 5000 stall 8", Dana 4.56 using a 30" tire. Car weights 3200lbs with me in it. Best it's been is 10.49 @ 126, but typically a 10.60s car.

2' hooker fenderwells are about the worst hp header out there, primaries are too long and mis-shapen, collectors are garbage too. If a header has a bolt flange around the end of the collector it is designed for street use. In other words, hp is not the primary concern. Getting the exhaust attached to the head is.


Using those as a comparison to a 1 7/8 tti isn't a good one in my opinion.

1/8 mile...... the first 330’ has more affect on the ET than the last 330’.
So, address the first half of the track.

More stall, cam with tighter lsa, get rid of the TG.

4500+ stall, something like a 250/256-106 cam in at 102, M1 single plane.

Should go quick enough to let you back into the 7.0.