I was following your build so it is too bad you have to let it go. I would start by looking at completed similar cars and go from there.
Projects are always going to take a hit but the further along it is the better.
Your brother Henry helped me out with retrieving my block and a bunch of parts from that thief Performance Only and brought them to his home and then took it all
to Carlisle to give to Bob George.

I havent been on moparts in awhile. its good to see so many great cars and projects underway. life sometimes makes this hobby quite difficult but you can never be cured of the gearhead desire of classic and muscle cars for long. always find my way back, its just how im wired. lol

rearranged my shop to make room, its amazing how much stuff you can accumulate over time.

i remember that issue. dont be too quick to think Dan was a crook, no one knew he was dying of cancer and we will never understand the way things happened or if it was his doing either.

Back to building another engine for the Copper Dart.
Picture explanation is of the replacement piston compression rings. The smaller ring is the top ring and the larger is the second. My concern was the stock piston has the same ring groove depth for both upper and second rings. The stock rings were both the same size as the replacement second ring. Seems kinda small to me.
Copper

Just an update. Getting back on the build after a bit of life searching and organizing. I have to drop the K frame again for just some minor clearance issues to avoid troubles. I guess it's worth the efforts to be able to attach just about everything before installing the engine/transmission assembly especially the headers, starter, cooler lines etc.
Actually the next big step I want to focus on is removing front and rear glass, replacing the headliner and upgrading the standard instrument panel to a 1971 Ralley Dash (round radio knob style) I purchased some time back. Ill see if my brother Henry (Model maker) will make his refinishing expertise available to refinish the painted dash assembly. I believe I have the entire reproduction dash Pad and bezel assemblies from Classic Industries just waiting for me to install. All the gauges seem functional and correct, maybe just a little cleanup to freshen them up. Fun Fun Fun.

Ordered
Noico RED 150 mil 36 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening Material (PE Foam Sound Deadener) for the roof while I'm replacing the headliner and KILMAT 50 mil 50 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening for the firewall, floors and wheel tubs while I'm at it.
I'll see how much fun this turns out to be.
Copper

Windshield and back glass removed
An unwanted surprised that was discovered is that the inside of the windshield is peppered with slag burns!
It must have been exposed to welding or close to someone grinding metal at the body shop. My car had no need for ANY grinding or welding especially on the inside! My guess is that the new windshield was sitting in close proximity to a very careless person being showered by grinding sparks or plasma discharge, I cant imagine how a welders sparks would be anywhere near a windshield.
Have I mentioned how it's wise to add 20% to every project step?
Copper

Does anyone know where I can get the passenger floor patch panel without buying the entire right floor section? I'm needing just two small spots where it seems the the a/c leaked into the carpet and soaked the jute, the floor has some swiss cheese going on in the corners where it's a compound curve that I can't make with a hammer. I don't want to use fiberglass but it's such a small section that doesn't warrant ruining an entire right floor panel. Thanks in advance.
Copper

I ordered a right front floor patch panel from summit racing, they're drop shipping from the manufacture directly.
Copper

I removed the bench seat and i'm adapting some small import car bucket seats . I need to select a floor shifter. Any recommendations? No crazy race stuff you need to be certified to operate but a nice, clean looking floor shifter with bezel would be nice. Thanks
Copper

More progress on my Dart build. Now that the windshield is out of the way i'm removing the standard instrument panel and fitting a 1971 Rally one in it's place Adding some sound deadener too while i can reach everything. The a/c and heater box is coming out for now so I need some good ideas to tastefully cover the holes. Aluminum seems to be the easiest solution for the blower motor hole and what i'm thinking for the smaller holes is using fender washers and carriage bolts as seen from under the hood. Im going to first measure the holes and search for rubber/plastic plugs online.
Why is disassembly considered progress anyway?
Copper

Is it common to find two build sheets in the same car? One was under the front bench seat bottom and I found another under the back seat bottom too. The driver seat one is in very bad shape but the back seat one looks salvageable.
Copper

I figured I might as well start fitting the Import car bucket seats while everything is out of the way. One thing I have to keep reminding myself of is that it's only metal and I can weld

Ok, the import seats are installed to fit. It took longer just to try to figure out how to mount them than the job itself.
Notice in the pictures the passenger seat is moved full forward and drivers full back just for perspective.
Copper

The two forward holes are at the factory location for bucket seats the rear holes were close. I will have to add steel plate supports under the floor for the inboard seat mounts like the outer mount locations have.
Copper

I need ideas for a automatic floor shifter, something simple to use and clean looking.
Thanks in advance.
Copper

Hurst Quarter Stick with the pistol grip handle?

Thanks for chiming in I really appreciate advise and opinions from other motor heads.
Do they make the Hurst quarter stick with covers for a finished look?
This one seems interesting and isnt very expensive. I would like to find one with pistol grip thats more affordable. Still looking.
Just realized its a ratchet type shifter, I think gate style would suit me better.
Copper

If given the choice I would buy a Hurst over a B&M.