Re: Towing with RV
[Re: DusterKid]
#2916737
04/29/21 09:21 PM
04/29/21 09:21 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,711 Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,711
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
|
I've only driven the rv from the dealership home and than from home to the track and back so I'm still learning. But just driving the rv either with or without a trailer when you hit a bump in the road you feel it in the steering wheel (almost like there's not steering damper). I think this is just natural due to Ford's front suspension. I've always driven Dodge trucks so they have a much better more comfortable feel to me. A buddy of mine has a 01 Ford E350 and he upgraded the steering damper and front shocks to Bilstein and said the shocks made a world of difference. Being a 01 it may of still had the original shocks so that maybe why such and improvement. Seems RV manufactures just take the chassis from Ford and add the RV body and don't really upgrade the suspension for the extra weight. From an RV site it seems the most popular upgrades are:
Assure tire pressures are per manufacture for how the RV is loaded Front end alignment Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar Heavy Duty Rear Sway Bar Heavy Duty RV Shocks Aftermarket Steering dampner Rear Trac Bar
Being my RV is a 2020 with only 6500 miles I wouldn't think the shocks and steering damper would be worn out yet. I already have a front and rear sway bar (although they are about 2/3 the size of the heavy duty aftermarket ones) I'm thinking of adding a Rear Trac Bar and going from there. Most of the way to the track is a normal 2 lane road but speed limits are 50-55mph. When trucks (even pickups) come the opposite direction I can really feel the air move me around. It's not white knuckle or anything, but more than I think it should be. 2017 E450 based here. Somewhat larger than yours. I flat tow a Jeep Grand Cherokee. When I first got it I found it to be almost undrivable with or without the jeep on the back. For some reason the Rv dealer thought the tire pressure should be 50 psi. Since these big class C rigs approach max weight when loaded with all your stuff the pressure on the door sticker works way better. To get it closer requires a four corner weigh. Next was alignment. Ford aligns the bare chassis so it can be driven. The RV manufacturer does NOT realign it when they are done adding all their weight and neither does the dealer. When you get it the alignment is way off and it wanders all over the place. I took it to a well respected truck tire and alignment shop and when they were done it was like night and day. Mostly it was toed out bad from the dealer.. It is now driveable without white knuckles, even one handed. It still pushes and pulls a little when trucks pass but nothing like it was. I still might put Sumo springs on it and/or a rear track bar. The Sumo springs are supposed to calm down the side to side roll and the track bar is supposed to reduce the push and pull from passing trucks. If I was you I would work on tire pressure and alignment before you buy any expensive parts that may or my not help. Good luck.
Last edited by GomangoCuda; 04/29/21 09:25 PM.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
|
|
|
Re: Towing with RV
[Re: Grizzly]
#2917145
04/30/21 09:20 PM
04/30/21 09:20 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,704 MICHIGAN
DynoDave
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,704
MICHIGAN
|
Dodge puts real springs in everything they make, that's why they handle so well. Ford builds their RV chassis for old people that want a smooth ride. My F53 Class A is the same thing: soft springs, no road feel, mediocre handling. I actually had to put an extra rear leaf on the double-slide side of the machine because it was sagging. Stiffer front springs are the only cure in your case and in mine. I've decided to live with mine the way it is and just gloat in the fact that a Ford will never match a Dodge in the handling department. Keep in mind, your RV is light for what you are asking it to do. They are more ideal for towing a Smart car or fiberglass boat, not 5000 plus pounds of car hauler, race car, and tools. No hitch upgrade will fix this either. They Factory rate the hitch for a reason (brakes, transmission, frame, cooling and weight) and match it to DOT expectations. Could be worse: you could have bought one of them wimpy Blunder Motors RVs. Lol, they don't even make a Class "A" anymore because of how lousy they were. Everyone will have varying opinions on these chassis I guess. While I've never had the opportunity to drive an old M chassis, I have driven the GM P-chassis and Ford F53 chassis. Too bad, as from what I understand, the M was a well engineered chassis, and owned much of the '60s/'70s RV market. The F53, with a solid beam front axle, has been called a LOT of things over the years. But I have NEVER heard anyone call it softly sprung or smooth riding. It's a conestoga wagon compared to a more modern independent designs. As for needing an extra leaf on one side, the chassis manufacturer has no way of know how evenly (or unevenly) the upfitter will load the thing. If your coach builder put an excess of weight on one side without compensating for it, then I'd say your issue is with them, not Ford. GM closed all of it's medium duty operations as a cost saving measure. At the time of it's sale, it was a very popular chassis in the market place. The P chassis business was sold to Workhorse, who continued to build it (even improving it with a wider front track) for many years. That was eventually bought by Navistar IIRC, and they eventually closed it down, possibly with the demise of the GM big block. With no 8.1L power, and no gas engine of their own, there would not have been much choice. We had two in the family, with zero issues with either. If they have an Achilles heal, it's that stupid self-applying drum park brake on the back of the transmission. Workhorse pretty quickly made the move to an Allison trans behind the 8.1L, eliminating the troublesome park brake. If getting out of the RV chassis busy in a sign the design was bad, I'm not sure where that leaves the Dodge M series, as they didn't make it past the Carter era. Or the Deere chassis for that matter.
Last edited by DynoDave; 04/30/21 09:34 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Towing with RV
[Re: DynoDave]
#2917792
05/02/21 06:47 PM
05/02/21 06:47 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,927 Seaford, Va
Kindafast
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,927
Seaford, Va
|
I have an 05 F450 28' Class C with a V10 and it pulls my 24' enclosed great unless it's a windy day. Came home yesterday from the outer banks of NC and it was white knuckle all the way. Most days though not a problem at all.. It takes a while to get used to the feeling of towing the box behind you but with what you have it's a good setup. I would suggest to get rid of the Michelin tires though. That are the worst tires for any motorhome period. Every time I have used them the tread comes off like a darn recap. I have changed brand new Michelins every time I buy a motorhome with them on there. Just my opinion but be warned ..
6.50 @105.26
|
|
|
Re: Towing with RV
[Re: moparacer]
#2917942
05/03/21 10:08 AM
05/03/21 10:08 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,772 Keymar, MD
DusterKid
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,772
Keymar, MD
|
Part of the problem might be a Ford pulling Mopars to the track..... What, is the world coming to? We got a Ford towing a Mopar and a Mopar towing a Ford, I guess we have things a little mixed up. Atleast the Mopar is in a box so you can't see that it has a Ford towing it haha. You picked your car up nicely, it looks good going down the track.
|
|
|
Re: Towing with RV
[Re: DusterKid]
#2917959
05/03/21 10:57 AM
05/03/21 10:57 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,927 Seaford, Va
Kindafast
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,927
Seaford, Va
|
What brand have you switched too that you like? General makes a great tire that will handle the weight. I have Firestone Trans Force on my rig right now and can't say enough good things about them.
6.50 @105.26
|
|
|
Re: Towing with RV
[Re: DusterKid]
#2918038
05/03/21 02:11 PM
05/03/21 02:11 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,496 PA
moparacer
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,496
PA
|
Part of the problem might be a Ford pulling Mopars to the track..... What, is the world coming to? We got a Ford towing a Mopar and a Mopar towing a Ford, I guess we have things a little mixed up. Atleast the Mopar is in a box so you can't see that it has a Ford towing it haha. You picked your car up nicely, it looks good going down the track. Thanks finally got it working good. Hey I have no room to talk I towed to the races for years with a damn Chevy.....
67 Barracuda street/bracket car 11.27-119 68 Dart 502 BB 8.70s-152 414 cid SB Dragster 7.65-174
|
|
|
Re: Towing with RV
[Re: moparacer]
#2918085
05/03/21 04:49 PM
05/03/21 04:49 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,927 Seaford, Va
Kindafast
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,927
Seaford, Va
|
Towing with my motorhome was one of the best moves I ever made. I take my house with me every time I go. My wife likes the comfort and when you walk in the door you are home. . Most times I will spend the night at the track or a local camp ground because it pretty far for us to travel to get to a track now. It don't matter what your tow vehicle is powered by as long as you have Mopar stickers on your Trailer. LOL
6.50 @105.26
|
|
|
|
|