Its been a long wait for some machine work and i am still waiting on 7.1 long Molnar rods. My BME 4.5 bore aluminum block should be done tomorrow.
The cam and top end of the motor will be the same as the build that made 926 hp.
I am switching from a Milodon gear drive to an Australian Muscle Parts belt drive. Will post pics.

The first one of those problems should get fixed this week...Todd

4.375 stroke Greg? Any idea what your 440-1 heads flow? Other than gas vs. alcohol, our engine builds are similar.

Jeff, i offset ground my Crower center weighted 4.15 crank to 2.20 x 4.31. My cam and valvetrain are about as far as you can take a stock cam core deal. 1.7 Jesel rockers with .867 intake lift, .800 exhaust lift, inverted flank cam from Jones, 285/296/114. Heads are old (1998) but fully ported 440-1 with 2.300 intakes and 1.780 exhaust. The change from 2.25 intakes to 2.30 didn't show any gain at the track.
The graph was the info i got for changing to the bigger intakes, but i am not buying the improvements shown. Later tests on a different bench showed less flow (top picture)

Should be interesting. I won't have the cam you do, but will weigh the same as you, before your aluminum block. Looking forward to your results.

Thanks for the update Todd. And also thanks for the great service! (Marsh Performance) Times have been tough with suppliers being low/empty on stock , and i appreciate your updates and tech help as well.

I look forward to hearing about how the machining of the new BMP/World aluminum block worked out.
- Areas to look for like lifter bores, deck, etc.
- Do the rivets of a Cometic MLS head gasket need a clearance grind on the block?

That Australian belt drive looks interesting.
- Black coating for easy cleaning and good looks. Bare aluminum can weather (appearance).
- Idler pulley to reduce belt flap. And it appears to have an eccentric adjustment for tension.
- Caged Torrington style thrust bearings. I believe the standard Jesel uses bronze thrust washers, with an optional multi-piece (non-caged) thrust bearing.
- Infinitely adjustable cam timing +/- 10 degrees. Like the newer and more expensive Jesel.

Can you post some pictures of the parts of the belt drive (taken apart), to see how they designed things?
- Some sort of ignition timing tab is needed, but I imagine all belt drives need the builder to come up with something.

This is a nice one i found for this belt drive. Can’t remember who makes it but i have the paperwork. Adjustable and very nice quality.

Milodon makes a nice one that we use pretty often.
Todd

The deep offset of the idler pulley also greatly increases belt wrap on the crank.
Otherwise the smaller pulley always has less than 50% tooth engagement.

A couple of holes, a couple of button heads, and 15 minutes with a piece of scrap material.
Doug

Now you have gone and done it with all your high faluten engineering. LOL Now how am I going to sell the overpriced fancy ones?????

If you already have something on that side, using those holes, Doug makes a good point. It may be easy to fab something from sheet aluminum (0.080-0.125" ?).
Just be sure and verify TDC when you are mocking up the motor. Easiest before the heads are put on.
Greg has a fuel injection pump mount, likely in that area.

And since the belt drive "cover" is much thicker (maybe 0.3") than a standard timing chain tin cover, many mass produced parts may stick out too far toward the front anyway. ?

I think my AR177 crank trigger kit would work with that belt drive. I've never tried it but it looks like a copy of the Jesel setup in most areas. Just have to make sure it clears the idler pulley.

The faster we go, the more specialized all this stuff gets. Pic of my mega block front with gear drive.
My rods are on the way! Molnar 7.1 h beams

Pistons by Gibtech. Line2line coated. Pistons are coated to only .0025 clearance cold. The b r eakin cycles wear them to a perfect fit at running temp.
Compression will be 15/1. Methanol fuel
567 grams for bare piston.
170 grams for pins
27.6 grams .9mm rings
5.6 grams locs
Rods 838 grams advertized

Very nice pistons. Any idea the size of the vert gas ports?

Nice stuff Greg! This'll run good.

must be .060, 1/16 bit is just a whisker to big

Thanks! Custom ordered through LSP (RICK ) on the board hear.

I'm planning on making a similar motor also, hopefully soon
Koleno high nickel iron block with 4.500 bore and a older Bryant 2.250 stroke with 2.375 Mopar rod journal size full counter weighted crank converted to 4.375 stroke by offset grinding the rods down to 2.200 rod sizes, B1-MC heads and more than likely on pump E85 with a set of twin Dominators on a sheet metal tunnel ram, hoping for near 1000 HP at or above 7500 RPM

I bet on 1050 hp at 7300 rpm.

Greg I absolutely wish you the best! You are one of the hardest working men I have ever seen. I've always enjoyed your car and have also enjoyed talking with you and you sharing knowledge with me. That crate motor I bought for my Dart was awesome and I had a lot of great memories with it.

Thanks Adam. Glad you had fun with that motor!
The last piece of the puzzle showed up today. The Molnar 7.1 x 2.2 hbeam rods. Yippy! Now all the parts are at the machinists. The mains on the block came in at .001 crush, or .0005 tighter than minimum so that is being fixed. Block finished deck is 10.720. Pistons, pins and rod small ends are being done. Hopefully i will get everything home sometime next week.

Sounds like a good planned build .
Way above my level . Appreciate the play by play


Tex

I will drive over to Todd Marsh's place to pickup my Molnar 7.100" rods soon. I was going to race at Piedmont today (Sat), but they changed their schedule to Sun only (was Sat & Sun).
Out of curiosity, what was the rod nominal weight on the box for the set you got?
When the balancing is done, let me know the rod big end and small end weights too. (just for planning).

And are you going to put longer transmission dowel pins in the block? i.e. for midplate thickness. The ones that came with my block are 0.496" OD x 0.748" long. The holes in the block are a little over 0.5" deep. Pic of hardware that came with BMP block. O-ring plugs, pipe plugs, dowel pins (deck, timing cover, trans), internal oil pickup adapter, etc.

Jim i didn't look at the rods,( or the box!) dropped them off at machinists ASAP . will definately be putting in longer dowels. In the past i have had to look for a bolt i could make longer ones out of. Most bolts are a couple thou small, so it takes a little hunting. Will post rod weights as soon as i can. Good luck at the races Jim!

If you are going with that approach, I can suggest starting with these Hillman axle bolts #882944.
After cutting the hex head off, there is about 1.312" length left.
The ones I bought from a local hardware store were 0.4965-0.4970 dia. So I sanded the block end to my satisfaction.

Thanks Jim!

Finally got the block home. I got the block clearanced for the belt drive. Washed it all up till it is squeeky clean. Two areas needed clearance for the belt drive made in Ausralia. On the oil passage it needs to be .400 below the timing cover deck. The black spot only interfears maybe .020. A touch with a sanding disc will fix that. I also clearanced all four corners of the block decks for headgasket rivets used in Cometics. No need to worry about them being on wrong. check out the photo.

I cut the rivets off

Thanks for the tip.
I will make that clearance before I send my block to the machine shop.
I haven't ordered pistons yet, so the block isn't going anywhere right now.

The Trend piston pins showed up! .990 x 2.93 x .205, H13 DLC coated.

Tool steel (H13) and 0.205" wall = strong !

I take it the pins are 186.7 grams each. Guessing your previous pins were about 175 grams.
I wonder what the box label 1585g/box means?

The Manley 42220 pins were .180 wall and 170 grams. So the New pins added 16.7 grams each. The rods are 21 grams lighter and pistons are .200 shorter so my assembly aut to be maybe 25 grams lighter per hole.

Probably all 8 pins plus the wrappers and box?

Joe

Greg,
Was the "black spot" just touching with or without the timing cover gasket between the block and belt drive?
I have two different timing cover gaskets. A SuperPerformance (redish) gasket that is 0.047" thick, and a gasket that came in a Milodon timing cover & seal kit that is about 0.035" uncompressed.

Also, if you can note the timing cover gasket thickness you have, that could be useful info when you get to cam endplay.

Jim , i checked it with no gasket. With a gasket you may not need to clearance it.

Cool. At least on the World BMP blocks. Others may differ. Todd

Todd; note that the one end of a oil galley needs to be clearanced. .400 below gasket surface.

Yeah I saw that . Just keeping notes. Todd

After some other distractions (health related) I managed to check the piston deck height on the block. I used the same rod and piston in all four corner cylinders. Cylinders one and seven showed .018 in the hole. Cylinders two and eight showed .015 and .013 ! Not happy🤔
I double checked my dial indicater to make certain i was getting repeatable results. Piston rock was .021 and cyl 1 measured .008 to .030.
Result - .0185 piston to deck. Cylinder 8 was .002 to .024 down for .013 deck height. So the .027 gaskets I have will have .040 piston to head on cyl 8 and .045 with a 75 degree temp in the block. Since the implication is possible inaccurate machining, all I will say is it was a local shop that decked it. I also went to the trouble of repeating the measurements by using the same rod and piston again in all four corners just to make sure my measurements repeated. They did to .0005.
Rotating clearance is .400 using 4.315 stroke and Molnar 7.1 hbeam rods.
Those two spots at the top of the timing cover area that 440Jim pointed out will also need to be clearanced. Not much, maybe .030.

So, from the best you can tell, one side is 0.005" different piston to deck than the other side, right?
That isn't "bad", but when you pay to square the decks, I would expect better.

On another note, I am getting ready to order an ATI super damper for my B1 572 CID build. Is yours the regular 917122E part for the OEM pulley bolt pattern and timing cover?
Or the version for the Indy cast timing cover? Just wondering if the AMP belt drive system would benefit from one or the other.

BTW, if you want to borrow the puller plate I made for the AMP crank pulley, just PM me and I will send it to you for trial and error fits....
That pulley has 3 threaded holes 6mm x 1.0 lead metric...