If you have a RV2 compressor on your car (factory AC), and AC works . . .would you leave it alone ?? (system already changed to R134) or would you go to the newer rotary style compressor (takes less hp to run, less weight on front of engine, etc. . . ) . . .

If it ain't broke don't fix it....

Or my favorite, if it ain't broke, you're not trying!

I am just too much of an anal purist. I'd stick with the original. The only thing I would question is if the shaft seal is compatible with R-134A.

That is great question on the shaft seal . . . I guess I should not complain, I finished the car in 2013 (and have put on 10k miles) and now I see evidence of pag oil on the front of the compressor, so time for the shaft seal to be replaced . . . hence the question, just do the seal (ones today say compatible with R134), or convert to the Sanden rotary . . . but as you say, its all there in place and nothing else wrong . . . probably order up the shaft seal and talk to my local AC shop . . .

If it was working and my engine bay was as pretty as that one--no way I would tear it apart to fix some thing that wasn't broken.

If it starts to go, then maybe I would look at some options.

I remember turning on the AC on my RV2 cars, and it was like their 383s were lighting off a Harley.
My rotary-compressor cars (GM stuff) were noticeably smoother in operation.
But for an original car, I wouldn't change it unless I had to use the AC often and for extended periods.
If I had a "driver" car with some other mods, I'd update the AC without regret.
OR -just save the old stuff, and except for car shows, you're fine.
But if the RV2 doesn't bother you & it's not broken, take my opinion with a large dose of salt, as the saying goes...

Keep in mind that you need to install a clutch cycling switch if you use other than the RV2 compressor.

[quote=John_Kunkel]Keep in mind that you need to install a clutch cycling switch if you use other than the RV2 compressor. [/quote

Why is that?]

If I had a functional RV2 setup, I'd simply repair it.

Especially on a driver or cruiser.

If I was building from scratch a full function touring car I would go newer. But that would be accepting that everything is going to be custom.

The RV2 will pump more gas than the sanden by a reasonable percentage, leave it alone...

Is that a propane converter behind the battery?

The system will freeze up. The RV2 has a valve that keeps that from happening.

No, that factory cruise control transducer

If it works I'd leave it alone, only benefit is weight reduction.
Here's info from when I converted over

Shaft seals on AC Compressors are not lip seals like you would see on a low pressure seal like a main seal. They are a type of seal that looks a lot like the seamless ring seals in a transmission.

They should be R134a resistant because they are not rubber. Side note: Never handle a compressor seal with your hands. According the manufacturers, it ruins them.

I have converted a lot of systems over to R134a and I have not had a leak at the compressor shaft seal.

All have leaked down over time much faster than an R12 system would. It may be the smaller molecules escaping through the hoses not designed for R134a or the fact that R134a tends to run higher pressures and the result is small leakage.

Mineral oil was used in R12 systems. Mineral oil will not carry in R134a so it settles in the bottoms of the compressor, drier, and cores. So you will need to change the oil or at least run Ester oil. PAG and Mineral oil are not compatible together.

Fill your system by pressure not the quantity, books will tell you 80% R134 to what the original R12 system used but that is usually too much. Pressures are temperature dependent.

All that said I have no problem using the old system if I want it to look stock but it will never cool as good as a properly functioning R12 system.

If you want the absolute best using R134a gas, then install a matched component system made for R134a.

My

Can you still drive into Canada or Mexico and get it recharged with R12? Asking for a friend

From what I have they refill it with Propane. Rumor has it..

Propane is an excellent refrigerant. It's just against the law to use it in a car, but so is speeding and they don't have a radar gun for propane. LOL

Around here, little cans of R12 go for about $20 each. Seems like no big deal unless you have a leaker.

I am in Canada . . . and it's all R134 up here, as far as I know. When I put the car together, all AC components were NEW, with R134 compatible hoses, seals, etc . . .

Same here. A scratch build would see (you would have to squint) a sanden mounted under the alternator where the fuel pump used to be.

Ever wonder why it's against the law? Propane is highly flammable and anything that breaks a line and can ignite it then you have a fireball under your hood! R134 uses a higher operating pressure than does R12. So if the time comes where you might need to do some work to the ac system it's wise to use a compressor that is made for 134a. If you have a 6 pack or hemi the choice is simple because you don't have the option.