Just installed this engine in a Charger. There is a pretty noticeable aft tilt. The transmission is installed and bolted to the cross member. I jacked the trans tail shaft up and put some shims on top of the trans mount..400 is the max before the trans starts to hit the car. The engine was a [censored] to get lined up. Had to loosen the engine mounts on passenger side to finally get it to drop in place. Mounts are Schumacker Poly Mounts. With the max amount of shim at trans mount the bubble in the level did not move at all that I could tell. Whats wrong here?

Is the ride height of the body where it should be? Specifically the front end.

Cars up on jacks. I put the level on the roof and its level. No adjustments to ride height have been made since removing old engine and installing this one. Actually no adjustments to the suspension/chassis at all

Gabriel Hijackers will fix this

LOL Good one

On a more serious note, I'm going to say the mounts are incorrect for you K frame / engine combo. We had a Charger in a while back with a Magnum force front Suspension and a hemi that was shoved so far to the right that the valve cover was dented and it was still hitting the shock tower at rest. No need for a torque strap on that one LOL. We wound up redoing the mounts to get the motor centered and level side to side. And yes it was a PITA

I agree. Unless you have some corn bread concoction get the factory mounts and isolators and you will be fine. Having to fight to drop it in place tells me you have a concoction of incorrect parts.

Not many car roof's are level to ride height...

The lower sill on mopars are meant to be though, have a check vs that

Your camera angles give a false illusion. Here is my 69 for a comparison.

Who told you the engine should be perfectly level? This a car, not a piece of furniture or a picture hanging on your wall. Never heard of anyone trying to "level" an engine.

Thank you gentlemen. This engine is a 400/511 so stock mounts won't last long; that's why I went with Schumacker. I've never had a problem with them in the past. I know Mopar engines have an aft tilt configuration but this one is excessive . At least more than I've seen
Frank

There is nothing wrong at the transmission mount. IF there is too much tilt, which I'm not convinced of, your problem is at the front. Check the distance from the k-member to the crankshaft (there are correct numbers out there somewhere).

1.) Get a an adjustable protractor that has the bubble, then check for the angle of the car (rake) using something other than the roof. Check in 3 or 4 places to be sure. (often the recess that drops down from the fender into the engine bay is a good surface to use for this). Adjust the protractor until the bubble is centered and then record the number of degrees shown.

2.) Once you completed step #1, go on to check the engine position. Set the bubble protractor back on top of the carburetor / fuel injection and adjust the protractor until you have the bubble centered. The read the amount of degrees shown.

3.) Subtract the number found at step #2 from the number at step #1 and that is the angle your engine is actually mounted at. Most engine installations are angled down in the back by 3 degrees (to match the rear end pointing up by the same 3 degrees) 3 degrees is the goal but many installs run with more than 3 with no issues.

I'm not sure what you would do. But I do know that all the specifications are with the tires installed and the car on the ground. Once you have the car on jackstands, who knows where you are.

Measure from the center of the crank to the K-frame. 5 1/4 inches is what you want to see. Measure from the center of the crank to each frame rail. Subtract lower from the higher number and the difference should be 2 1/2 inches. The motor sits closer to the right frame rail by 1 1/4 inches. Measure and report back.

With the car still on jacks (I will downjack and take all measurements again) the distance from center of crank, as measured from center of crank bolt, to K frame is 5 1/2 inches. Distance to passenger frame rail 14 1/2 and to drivers frame rail 17 inches

Last measurement should tell the story - measure from the top of the bellhousing to a given location on the firewall.
Or using a straightedge - top of bell to the top of the inner apron tops.

Or top of extension housing to the cross member support horseshoe - the part weld in the car.

Maybe some one here can provide those measurements.

On stands of on the floor those measurements will not change. If they do in will be minimal. Sounds like you are very close. As Transman mentioned a rear measurement would also help. Center of transmission output to floor would help. I do not have that number but maybe someone might.

I just put a 383 and 727 in my project 1970 Charger.

My bell sits closer to the tunnel that I expected. I just swapped a 5 speed Tremec into my other Charger. There is more clearance in the red car.

Sounds like you don't have a problem...