A stock stroke 440 w/ some Trick Flow 240s and a decent cam will get you mid 11s easily. You just need to know what you have currently (decent crank and rods, etc.) and do the homework to compare what it'll cost to rebuild what you have versus building a stroker. The stroker is great, but will add a bunch of money to the project. A decent carb is way cheaper than going EFI. Reading things nowadays it's amazing these cars ever ran at all w/ carburetors on them, lol.

For what you're wanting, a stock crank, stock LY rods w/ some ARP bolts, and some $450 Wiseco Pro True Street pistons will work just fine. I'd get Dwayne to spec you a cam...but even a shelf hydraulic flat tappet (something comparable to the old MP 509/292) will work. Some Trick Flow 240s, a decent single plane manifold, 850 holley, etc.

Not knocking anyone's recommendations thus far, but mid 11s can be done cheap. You'll have $2500+ in just the stroker kit (if buying new parts). You should be able to do a stock style rotating assembly w/ a freshly turned stock crank, resized stock rods, and new pistons for $1k or so.

I agree with Chip on this. Stock stroke 440 w decent pistons and rods, TF 240's and a mild solid flat tappet or even HFT, 850 holley, 4.10 and 3500 stall should slam dunk into the mid 11's. A 505 will do it easier if money isnt an issue, but if mid 11's is your goal, stroker is not necessary.

Your plans look fine.

I’d suggest building a 505 out of the 440 block for some easy 10’s.

Will a stock stroke 440 get me to mid 11s and lower if I decided I wanted to go quicker? I really dont want to shift this car much over 62-6400 if that helps

I was thinking something along the lines of Trick Flow 240 heads, roller solid camshaft, lightweight pistons, H beam rods, M1 Single plane, 950hp Holley or AED, all MSD ignition, TTI 2" step headers, fuel cell with -8 line to the regulator with -6 going to the float bowls. Will a stock stroke 440 get me to mid 11s and lower if I decided I wanted to go quicker? I really dont want to shift this car much over 62-6400 if that helps.

I appreciate any advice

505 vs 440 is mostly gonna be a big increase in TQ with just a little HP increase, TQ breaks parts, you get to a point where you can easily make the power with good modern top end stuff to run what you want and any more TQ means upgrading from 8 3/4 to dana bigger tires higher gears (put more stress on trans and driveshaft u joints...) bottom line is it is just so easy now days to run low 11s with even a stock 440 short block and carefully selected modern heads and cam that it is almost not worth bothering with the extra cubes. Don't get me wrong, I love big TQ but there is a point where it is just not much point, on the street a 440 can easily make 500lbs tq and make hooking up nearly impossible already and at the track when it does hook you got to upgrade lots of stuff to keep it from breaking stuff, are you u-joints gonna handle 1300LBS plus TQ? Driveshaft? Trans output shaft? Can your input shaft handle 600lbs?

505 vs 440 is mostly gonna be a big increase in TQ with just a little HP increase, TQ breaks parts, you get to a point where you can easily make the power with good modern top end stuff to run what you want and any more TQ means upgrading from 8 3/4 to dana bigger tires higher gears (put more stress on trans and driveshaft u joints...) bottom line is it is just so easy now days to run low 11s with even a stock 440 short block and carefully selected modern heads and cam that it is almost not worth bothering with the extra cubes. Don't get me wrong, I love big TQ but there is a point where it is just not much point, on the street a 440 can easily make 500lbs tq and make hooking up nearly impossible already and at the track when it does hook you got to upgrade lots of stuff to keep it from breaking stuff, are you u-joints gonna handle 1300LBS plus TQ? Driveshaft? Trans output shaft? Can your input shaft handle 600lbs?

I am currently working toward the same goals - street legal, just around town cruising, and a mid to low 11 second time slip. In doing the math to go 11.50 at 3350lbs, it says I needed 400hp on the ground, so roughly 500 at the crank. A little browsing around here, and I stumbled across Fast68's, write-up on a 500hp 383. He made it look easy-cam, intake, carb, headers, an unported 906 and walla 500hp. Now, I know the devil is in the details but still at least hitting 450-475 should be doable and you know what it is. I found a 383 shortblock in good shape on the cheap. After talking with Fast68 and getting him to send me a cam, I threw on a Victor 383, a 750 Demon and some headers and it went 11.47/119 right off the trailer. I have played with intakes and carbs this past season and it now goes 11.30 in not so good air. To get the good time slips with it you will the suspension dialed which you should be able to do with the Caltracs and a well matched converter (I've had good results with PTC). So if the bottom end of that 383 is in good shape it may be an option if you are around 3,500lbs, if it needs any work at the machine shop, then you are money ahead by going ahead with the 500+ cubic inch route.

505 cubes
10.96 compression
440-1 CNC 325
M1 intake
1000 4150 AED
.600 Comp flat tappet
70-71 Hemi oil pan
2” TTI step headers, 3” exhaust out the back bumper.

3.54 gear
8” convertor
FMVB - A&A transmission
3,930 pounds

93 Sunoco
Chrome box
Belt driven water pump
Lincoln Mark VII fan
Mallory 140 fuel pump
6 point chromemoly bar
Pinion snubber, XHD springs
Viking DBL adjustable-rear
Gas shock-front
9x28 M/T Pro Bracket Radial

Shift
1) 6300
2) 6200
Stripe) 6200

Foot break @ 2,000

Best of 10.89 @ 123
Does 10.90’s in the dead of summer

Put over 1,500 miles on it last year.
Cruises @ 3,300 rpm @ 68 mph on the highway

Cubes can help

My leak springs are bent......so i’m Not sure the power is doing that but I don’t think the weight helps

Love this 67 RT!! Now thats a street car

I have hit 10.70's @ 125 in my 63 Sport Fury with a mild basic stroker. Its a 493 as I used the 4.15 crank in the 440 block. Has D-dished pistons for 10.6 comp with the basic Indy EZ heads. I use the Indy dual plane intake and a Holley 850 double pumper. Cam is a solid flat tappet from Dwayne Porter ( Fast 68 ) and it is .585 & .592 lift with 264 & 270 @ .050 and a 110 LSA. Its really nothing fancy as I built good quench in it and I drive and race it on 93 pump. Car weighs 3700 with out me as its a 727 with a Dynamic 9.5 converter and 4.30's with a 30" tire. I usually drive it the 45 miles to the track and race just as I drive it through the full exh. Good luck with yours as it sounds like a nice solid build. Ron

I have ran a .060 440 with a mildly ported set of Indy 440-1 by Porter racing heads (fast68plymouth )
11to 1 compression on 91 octane 10% ethynol pump gas only no additives
Comp roller 266@.050 .640 lift w1.5 rockers
Indy single plane with a 1050 dominator
Ross flat top pistons Manley H beam rods
TTI 2 1/8 headers 3800 lb 1965 coronet
4.88 gear 5700 stall 8inch converter low gear 727 trans by Ultimate transmission
30x9x15 Hoosier radial drag slick
10.30 et @130 mph 1.40 60ft times
Shift at about 7200
Also ran this car / engine combo with a Jericho 4 speed
Same et with about 1 mph faster
The key in my opinion is the guy that does the heads and cam choice ! (Fast68) Porter racing heads !!

Your plan will work out just fine, and what you're shooting for is a very solid 11 second kind of a street/strip deal.

My '69 GTX is a getting little bit dated but still runs well and is along the same lines.

451ci (400 B engine based, but really close enough to a .055 or .060 over 440 for comparison sake)
10.75:1
RPM heads, minor prep (backcut valves, blended port openings slightly)
PRH/Comp .630/262-266 solid roller
Victor 383 intake prepped at home, 1000/4150 race demon
2" supercomps/mufflers/X pipe exhaust I fabbed in my Dad's driveway

Your plan will work out just fine, and what you're shooting for is a very solid 11 second kind of a street/strip deal.

My '69 GTX is a getting little bit dated but still runs well and is along the same lines.

451ci (400 B engine based, but really close enough to a .055 or .060 over 440 for comparison sake)
10.75:1
RPM heads, minor prep (backcut valves, blended port openings slightly)
PRH/Comp .630/262-266 solid roller
Victor 383 intake prepped at home, 1000/4150 race demon
2" supercomps/mufflers/X pipe exhaust I fabbed in my Dad's driveway

The converter I have is somewhat "wrong" for the combination, it was originally made for a 572 Wedge
A body race application, and is too tight for mine for racing but it drives really nice on the street so I've left it alone.

4.10 Dana with a Power Lock.

Most of the time it went 11.20s and 11.30s around 120.
11.0 @ 123 best ever (three times same day) and for whatever reason I haven't been able to do it again.

Peak power rpm is about 6200/chassis dyno, pretty close to what you were looking for.

Later I tried a 950 Quick Fuel Brawler and it ran about the same ET as before
but feels quite a bit snappier on the street. Only had it to the track once with that carb
and it went 7.15, 7.16, 7.17, 7.17 that day (so basically 11-teens to 20s).

TBH the only outdated item you're thinking about is the M1, and it's still a pretty darn good piece.
I'm sure a TFS or prepped Victor would pick up a little bit but nothing earth shattering.



Below is an old picture...Old time Moparts people will recognize it from many years ago.....
It wasn't long after this shot we had to intall a roll bar. You will too! Good luck

This is one of my favorite Moparts cars of all time! Classic Mopar muscle/street brawler. Zippy, you nailed this combo

X2!