What options are available for adding an inside the car battery shut off you can access from the driver's seat?

Thanks in advance!

If I ever do mine I'll just run a morse cable from a lever somewhere near the shifter to the disconnect switch in the trunk.

This. One switch, operated from the rear or the drivers seat. Legal, safer, more convenient.

Two switches just doubles the chances of forgetting to turn it on or off. And the rulebook says the switch must be mounted at the rear of the car. Closer to the battery, the better.

Only time I've seen in car battery shut offs is in scca road race cars and other forms of road racing. Even the Lemons race cars have to have inside shut off. Drag race tail of car exterior.

hi


why do you need a switch near the driver seat ?

trunk mount battery must have a external switch knob on drag cars .

one frequently gets in the car, buckles in, and forgets to to trip the outside switch. Also the emergency crews at some tracks are a little "slow". Turning off the power b the driver can obviate further vehicle damage. Heck, at some dragstrips you have to back into the water box. On occasion I've backed into the splash guard behind the water box, hit the push shutoff at the rear of the car against the splash shield, and shut the car off. Embarrassing.

Do you really want a length of 00 welding cable carrying 100 amps next to you?
If a crash pierces the insulation, you may become the ground cable.

Safer:
12 gauge switch leads out of cabin to a big relay near the battery which carries the actual current.

The idea is one switch at the rear near the battery and two ways to actuate it. One from the rear and one from the driver's seat. I like the morse push/pull cable idea. If anyone has examples they can share I would appreciate it.

I designed a setup with a Morse cable with a chute handle to actuate the lever on the switch. Still had the Push (off) Pull On handle that went out the trunk. Never installed, sold the car, but still have the parts. May put it on the Road Runner

I think Lokar makes a kit.

Yes, i have buckled in and had to get out to flip the switch.On. At laest it was in the pits, not in staging LOL.

John

This. Battery cable should be run inside anyway, but that's another conversation. No need to touch the existing wiring or switch. A lever, probably overhead, similar to a chute handle, with a morse cable to the switch and piggie backed onto the lever going out the back.

A switch mounted through a body panel with the knob on the outside may present an issue, but most people put the switch inside with a push/pull rod these days.

Not only is it a convenience thing to keep from having to get out of the car if you forgot to turn it on, It's a safety thing as well being able to get it all shut off while still in the car. Throttle stuck open, fuel fire, electrical issue. I'll never have a car without it.

When I bought my Avenger, the previous owner had put a switch on both battery cables, activated by 1 lever thru rear panel. I simply got a Lokar lever and cable set up, hooked it to one switch, and mounted lever on passenger side floor. As was said earlier, I had been buckled in numerous times before I realized the switch was off. One of my better upgrades. Jim

I'm starting to feel like a broken record, advocating for a lithium battery. But you eliminate so much weight and wiring. Here's what I did. I mounted a four and a half pound lithium battery, 780 cranking amps, under the floor between the driver's seat and the starter. Then I used a regular cutoff switch from summit racing with a shaft and a lever. I mounted that under the floor with the shaft oriented vertically protruding up through the floor below the area between the drivers knees, with the lever pointed to the side. Then I wired the battery to the switch, and to the starter and all the other stuff. Now I have a switch that I can shut on and off while I'm sitting in the car. To operate the switch from the rear of the vehicle, instead of a heavy and expensive Morse Cable, I used a length of 5/16 inch OD by 035-in wall 304 stainless tubing. I put a spherical rod end on it and a bolt through that into the lever on the switch. The stainless tubing extends out the rear of the vehicle. It has a few bends in it to clear obstacles. And a t-handle welded on the end outside under the deck lid. The whole setup is very light, very functional, and very reliable.

I used a Morse cable. The rear pivot is some scrap steel and a piece of 3/8" steel tube. The tube is held onto the switch with a 3/8" compression fitting cut in half. The upper lever was made from scrap 1/8" aluminum.
Doug

There is more and more people offering solid state relays that can carry the load of the whole car. Then it is just a simple toggle switch to make them work. I have seen the legality of them come into question though because they are not mechanical.

I am going lithium as well but plan to leave it in the trunk for now. Part of wanting to do this is because of the new battery. Thanks for the input everyone!

My Digital Delay switch panel has a lighted halo around the start button showing the switch is on.... I’m going to like that feature

Lokar makes interior battery cut off switch kits with all the needed parts to attach to most shifters. They are not cheap at I believe 225-250 but has all the pieces to attach it to your shifter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-1330013 Pretty expensive for something so simple..

I built mine.

Dave

I do chassis certification for IHRA and was one of the tech guy's for 13+ years. When builders started using the toggle switch controlled relays I questioned their use. The rule book says the battery cut off has to shut all current off.
My question was how a switch which uses 12 (?) volts to activate was legal. I later learned that they are supposed to be using a toggle to control the ground side of the relay.
Afterwards I started checking if it was negative or positive controlled.

And yes I was an A** at first. Now I see them with a push/pulll switch on the outside of the cars.
As a racer I like them because they are cleaner to install and you can put one anywhere you want it easily.

Dave

[/quote]

I do chassis certification for IHRA and was one of the tech guy's for 13+ years. When builders started using the toggle switch controlled relays I questioned their use. The rule book says the battery cut off has to shut all current off.
My question was how a switch which uses 12 (?) volts to activate was legal. I later learned that they are supposed to be using a toggle to control the ground side of the relay.
Afterwards I started checking if it was negative or positive controlled.

And yes I was an A** at first. Now I see them with a push/pulll switch on the outside of the cars.
As a racer I like them because they are cleaner to install and you can put one anywhere you want it easily.

Dave [/quote]

I looked at those but couldn't figure out how to actuate them from two points. Either way - I can see tech having an issue with them. It would be a nice setup with a big red kill button within easy reach.