I used to have trouble with transmission pans. After I found we had an inch pound wrench I used the spec, typically 12 in lbs, found it took several rounds to get them all tight at once, no more leaks.

About 30 years ago I lost the ability to be able to know how tight bolts were by hand tightening. Torquing everything is a royal pain. Over the last 15 or so years, I don't do much stuff that requires specific torque anymore. Just one of several reasons I became a welder. Gene

I remember a older Service station mechanic telling me that he had calibrated elbows on most tightening he did on cars in that stations bays.
I will use a inch lb. torque wrench and convert the lighter ft. lbs. into inch lbs. like using 23 Ft. Lbs. on 5/16 bolts, 23x12=276 inch lbs. 20x12=240 + 3x12=36. 36+240= 276

Heads, rods and mains here down under !

What is the torque spec on an air cleaner wing nut, hose clamps, and trim screws? After all, you said you used a torque wrench to tighten them, you must know.

I’m surprised....

NO one mentions the critical torque spec of the ......




Muffler bearing

Maybe the from Bend oVeR can check in

Quite the opposite for me. They are the only ones I have found that needed hand tightening instead of a torque wrench. All seemed to be too loose.

Oil pan bolts?

Did you THROW OUT the special nyLock bolts

I use a torque wrench on all mechanical assemblies where I can actually gain enough clearence to do so. When I can't, it bothers me!

I think you need to be more specific. Putting together older iron is completely different than the late model stuff. Not following specific torque specs/sequences on late model stuff(especially TTY bolts) will guarantee failures.

crank 'em down till they strip or break, then back 'em off 1/2 turn...........

Rod, main, & head bolts - yes
Lug nuts on any import or an American car newer than mid 80's. Yes
Exotic unfamiliar engine parts like Cam Phasers or some other unusual item that looks like it could warp under too much pressure, I look up and torque to spec too.

Anything else I will torque with experience and the industry standard spiral sequence.

I never thought of anything else having a torque spec until I watched a terminator movie and Arnold used a torque wrench on a starter. I thought that's weird and then it hit me, oh yeah there is probably a spec for everything. LOL

I also only use Red threadlocker (Permanent) and never blue (Temporary). Especially on cam bolts, even if it isn't required.

I also incrementally torque nearly everything and never tighten any one bolt until all the bolts are started and run most of the way in. I can not tell you how many newbie mechanics just start popping in bolts & tighten away, and then they have to loosen them all to get the last few in.

I'm thinking of the ones reefed down so hard that they warp the rails and never seal. Both ends of the spectrum are bad.

Same here, oil pans and valve covers too.

Type of pan/cover and gasket probably matters as well. If you're using a cork gasket with a stamped steel cover, then torque spec is crucial. I've been using cast aluminum covers/pans with anti-crush gaskets now for years and don't have any issues with hand tightening. Still using a stamped oil pan, but for that I bought Andy's pan reinforcements.

#1 important thing for pans and covers is clean and check them with a straight edge. Too many gorillas work on the car before me and think tighten it until it bends the wrench and the pan.

For trans/oil/valve covers I do not use anything bigger than a 1/4" drive ratchet. Same thing with plastic intakes.

I do follow the gasket manufacturers recommendation about sealant but if it doesn't have specs I do this.
Trans pans I oil both sides of the gasket and snug repeatedly in a crisscross pattern until it feels good or the gasket starts to just barely squeeze out.
Oil pan I spread a thin thin smear of sealant on both sides of the gasket and snug repeatedly in a crisscross pattern until it feels good or the gasket starts to just barely squeeze out.
Valve covers, I use sealant on the valve cover side of the gasket and oil on the bottom of the gasket then snug then repeatedly in a crisscross pattern until it feels good or the gasket starts to just barely squeeze out.

If I have a leak I snug a little more but that doesn't happen often and it is usually when a center bolt valve cover has been bent in the middle.

The most important thing is to do what works best for you.

Pffft.... not much. usually just internal engine bolts. Head, rod, main, sometimes manifolds.

Keep a “fisherman’s scale” in your tool box and every wrench becomes a torque wrench.

IF you factor the length of the wrench into the calculation!

i m a GORILLA is not uncorrect...

Those damn pan rails are a bummer