I used a 1050AN from Quick Fuel for my 470. It worked just fine up past 750 hp. Ran great right out of the box.

Thank you Andy. I’d like to stay with my 1050/4150 especially since I don’t know if I have room for 2” spacer.
MoparDave more than a smile. I am still kind of in shock that it did that well. So is the dyno operator that just finished a chev 540 that made 50hp less and 100ft lbs less. He thought this engine would make 650 or so on his dyno 🤣.
After the first pull he said “son of a bitc#”. That can’t be right 🤣.

Is that a Super Flow or what brand?
Dyno numbers are just that, a useful number(up or down) to compare changes made on THAT DYNO that DAY
I'm glad to see your test results posted, I haven't use a set of the Trick Flow heads yet, either size
I did see 50 HP difference from a set of Indy SR M.W. compared to a set of CNC ported 440-1 with the same intake. same carb with same jetting, same compression ratio on the same short block with no other changes except the heads From 727 HP up to 775 HP

My numbers on the bottom of my post......760-900-3895....

And I tried that carb on my Dart and it was a mess down low and couldn't even do a burnout no joke. This is why you guys that shoot 4 and post peak numbers don't get it in a street/strip car.....Peak numbers usually mean crappy too rich down low street reality....

Damn dude... Next time you need something like that bring it over and I'll Tig it for you. I'm right behind IWSI on W. 11th.

Great #s by the way. Did you assemble the short block?

The 1050 in my picture is a 4150. Did you run your 1050/4150 on the dyno?

We tried but it was so lean at idle it was reading 19.5 on the widebands. I expected it to work since it ran great 4 months ago and I took it apart and cleaned everything and set everything back to out of box settings. We were only able to run the dyno operators 950 Holley.

[quote=Thumperdart]And I tried that carb on my Dart and it was a mess down low and couldn't even do a burnout no joke. This is why you guys that shoot 4 and post peak numbers don't get it in a street/strip car.....Peak numbers usually mean crappy too rich down low street reality.... [/quote

What do you mean you guys 🤷‍♀️Lol. My engine doesn’t have a big fat power curve by accident.
I’ve ran this carb and it’s ran great in the past. And went 9.7s on a buddies car.
Something went wrong from the time it sat and I took it apart. I’ll be sending it out to you before trying it again.
I’m sure it’s something simple but I will also let you work your magic. 👍😊

I did assemble the engine and came up with the combo myself, but with plenty of research and questions.
Springers did the machine work on the block.

Cab, yes it’s a super flow but that’s all I can tell you. I realize that a dyno is just a tuning tool. But I can promise you the numbers are very real off this dyno. And usually disappointing.

That is a bummer, it is always nice to dial in your own carb on the dyno so you're ready to run. But at least you found out your carb had a problem before you used it on your engine. You could've hurt the engine with that carb. Must be plugged up somewhere for it to be that lean.

The 80 degree air temp doesn't seem correct so that is inflating the numbers a little bit. This time of year the air temp is in the 40's or 50's. He must have his temp gauge mounted somewhere in a heated room since it doesn't vary during the pull. Usually the dyno room is well ventilated so during a pull the air temp will drop down to be close to the outside temp since so much fresh air is pulled in.

Andy,
I was pretty bummed about my carb but at the same time beyond satisfied.
There was no air hat the air was from in the room.
The first pulls the air started at 63 degrees.

I would like to test and tune with that humidity sometime. Cheese and rice that would be FUN. lol 😂

If anybody would like to duplicate this build or go similar here is the cam card. I installed the cam at 105, although it appears it could have been put in at 107-108 just fine and gained a few hp up top.

A comment from the peanut gallery........

You’re at the dyno....... which imo is about the best place there is to try and get a carb(in this case, your own carb) sorted out.

I would have made one or two pulls with the shop carb to establish a baseline for power and fuel flow........ then started trying to get your own carb sorted out.

Making sure the carb tune is close(safe enough to use) is the main thing I use the dyno for.

Even if you weren’t 100% successful getting your carb dialed in...... you’d have had more data to go by for future mods/tweaking.

I’ve only used a 4150/1050 once. It went on a hot street 10.5:1 572 with EZ heads.
It was the QFT Q-1050 with downleg boosters.
I think we ended up making one jet change on the dyno.
Nice fuel curve, good throttle response. Owner says it runs great on the street.

Edit- I just looked at the sheets...... we made the baseline runs with my old Mighty Demon 850 downleg, which was working very nicely on that motor.
With the QFT Q-1050, the jets were actually quite a bit smaller than what was being used in the MD850.

There was only a few tq/hp difference between the two carbs, but you have to keep in mind there isn’t anything even close to a 200cfm spread between those two carbs.
The MD 850 is 1.56v x 1.750
The QFT 1050 is 1.59v x 1.750

On the flow bench they’re probably within 25-30cfm.

Thank you Duane,
I was curious about actual flow and baseplate/Venturi size. There can’t be much difference at all in flow there. My current issue is that I need to get the hood I’m going to use and see if 2” adapter is going to fit.
I was really bummed about not getting my carb dialed. But dyno time isn’t free and I didn’t want to run the bill up. Looking back I should of just stopped right there and figured it out. We did try a few things to make it work but were unsuccessful.

I didn’t see if you mentioned exactly which 950 the dyno shop has, but there are at least 3 different sizes of “950’s”, one of which is actually slightly bigger than the QFT Q-1050.
The Holley XP950 is 1.600v x 1.750.

I had a customer that I prepped some heads for and sold him a cam, who had bought one of those.
It had some major issues on the dyno. They made a bunch of changes and pulls with it....... but it had some manufacturing defects that weren’t going to be tuned out.

I was kinda surprised the dyno operator didn’t tell him it wasn’t going to be able to be fixed with tuning changes.

I’ve run into that scenario a few times, where there are problems with the carb that air bleeds and jets won’t solve.

Just an observation about that cam.....my friend runs a comp solid roller with the same 4311B lobe on the exhaust. Strange that comp speced his lash at .018” for his vs. your .022”. Any idea on that, Dwayne? Not sure i understand that, being they are the same exact lobe. His is a rb 505 at 11:1 comp.


Really nice work on that combo and great job on assembling that! Results show.

The lash setting is not etched in stone.
It can be used to fine tune a combo.

On builds that will see more street duty, I will often tell them to show a slightly tighter lash setting, since running them on the tighter side is easier on the lifters.

And then....... sometimes the card is just wrong.
I had a solid roller sent to a customer one time, he called to question the lash.
It was listed as “HYD”.