Did you read the article from the GRP guy? For bracket racing they claim 1000s of runs, top fuel 8. And he said they were compressed not stretched. I’m sure they went to school and do all kinds of testing to improve their products.

I think 1000's of runs at 1000hp is pushing your luck. If possible at all. Things like a tire shake in a 1000hp bracket car can beat things up. At 1000+hp I think it is wise to cycle your parts at some point.

Yes, I call it Ghost on a Stick. It is a 245 in Yancer RED, ran a best of 4.32, best 60 was .897. That was in killer air and letting it eat and on the run it blew up..lol
Normally it ran 4.42 and 1.00 pulling 10* timing from the hit to 2 seconds out. Look at my avitar. That is what it normally looked like.

How many runs are you putting on the GRP before swapping them out?

Dave

Kind of what I was thinking.

Dave

LOL.. At this point you will get no argument from me. At 7+ years and unknown number of runs I know I found the limit on the K1's.
Mine dyno'd at 1300 HP. But that was before I went to hat and port nozzles which cleaned up cylinder to cylinder fuel distribution. So I was making in excess of 1300.

I would say the 1000 runs would be on your average bracket car, also need to look at when the article was written. And, what if any improvements have been made in metallurgy since.

Dave

Edit: I just looked again. Article was written in 2011, so 10 years ago..

Gregsdart..

Apologies for side tracking your post..

Dave

At 1500 HP I don’t care what you put in there it’s gonna break stuff.

There's a guy up my way that builds DIRT Modified engines that run up front consistently and he tells his customers to change the rods at 600 laps.

These engines are upwards of $30K and some of his customers seemed to think they should last longer for that price and ignored the advice.

None of them made it to 700 laps...

Physics doesn't much pay attention to price points.

Kevin

I'm still putting laps on these rods. I bought a pro mod rod from GRP.

Cool ride,

My deal is turbo so there a little easier on rods.

I routinely put 400 laps on GRP's in my junker. They usually got cycled into something else as long as the new owner was aware of the run time and I know of at least one set that has hundreds more laps and over 5K street miles. Of course my engine was not a blower deal and made what it made, I let the pros decide on power but it went 171 at 2975lbs.

Blower deal are a completely different deal for sure. The guys I know who run blower deals in TD seem to prefer a forged aluminum rod over a plate style rod. But these are cars that can go 3.70's or quicker at will, so a fair amount more HP, but they all prefer aluminum over steel. Been having this discussion with a friend who is putting together a lower HP hemi deal and talked to GRP and MGP and both said no worries for what he is looking to do, 7.50's in a 2800lb door car. I will say the engine he purchased had BME rods in it fwiw.

As for steel Carillo, Pankl, Crower all make killer steel rods, but they come at a price for sure. IMO all three are likely overkill for 1000HP. The only issue I see with steel rods is guys put them in the engine and forget about them.

Love to hear more about Mr Covey 4.50 set up. We run 4.50's in Vegas with our dragster NA with a single 4bbl. Always enjoy comparing notes.

Hey Al. I was Mr. Covey when I was active duty.. Now I'm just Dave or Hey You..lol

The basics on my ride are
:
Indy Maxx Aluminum block
4.390 bore x 4.150 stroke 502 Cu In
LMS Cam .lift 510/500 duration 284/300 lca 116.6 with a 1.6 rocker
440-1 Heads flowed by Muscle Motors 2.190 Int valve
TBS 871 with 3 strips per rotor lobe
Injected on alcohol
Glide with 1.69 low
FTI converter stall at 6100
9 inch 3.90-1
MT Big Bubba
Weight with me 1890

No secrets with me..

Just got back from dropping my block and heads off at machine shop to get the hole welded up and head repaired.
Going to bore to 4.445 and go with the larger 2.250 intakes.

And Al I have followed your stuff for several years now. I only wish I could build stuff as nice as yours.

I ran 4.48 in Vegas at the Million several years back. Would love to go again before I croak..


Dave

Awesome. My kid is always wanting to go faster for some reason, of course I pay for most of it so I guess that solves that mystery. Like to hear about some of the faster Mopar stuff for sure. A few procharged ones out here that run really really well. As for the Mr part, lol. I thought Sir was the big one, but if you were Navy thats a different story I was a lowly enlisted guy but having to call my wife Ma'am sure gets old. But sometimes she lets me call her Col, or Dr

I was Army, and unlike a lot of the Warrant Officers I liked being called Chief..lol
About the only time I was called Mr. was when being introduced to someone. My daughter just resigned and she was a Captain (Army Nurse). Fortunately, I had already retired so she never got a salute..lol

I like the Pro Charger deal as it doesn't need to be spooled like a turbo but you can control the boost as if it were. Only disadvantage to them is it seems they are prone to breakage and upkeep in general, my opinion.
I've thought of ways to control the boost on a roots but not sure what dumping fuel and boost would do to the tune up. Can you imagine the flame a guy could get using a dump valve attached to the intake of a blower, and dumping into the headers??
Could make for some serious explosions too I guess if the flame traveled back up the pipe.

Dave

doesn't need to be spooled like a turbo
Can't be spooled like a turbo, once your pulley sizes are fixed you're left with whatever stall speed your engine makes. If it won't launch, you need to turn it faster and reach serious boost within your stall speed, a looser converter, or re-purpose the engine for better lower end torque (earlier intake closing, more static CR).

AFAIK the biggest complaint to the ATI is that most brackets are nowhere near stiff enough. The attachment points are limited to the nose of the engine, but the wide span between the pulleys is bad. The brackets look big enough, but the force on them bends both pulleys forward. It's enough to slip and mis-align them. In some cases a simple doubler plate added to the mid-span (someone on Yellow Bullet said "I use a section of angle iron") by rivets, screws (welding not needed) helps a great deal. Remember: aluminum is only about 1/3 the stiffness of mild steel, strength is not the problem.

I think the crank driven Pro Charger is the best way to use them, no belts or slippage
BTW, did you fly or where you in maintenance or supply?

Oh, I know how they work. I know they are fixed pully like a roots, they work like a turbo though in that they are a mechanical driven vane pump.

The converter plays a huge role with a roots, turbo, or just NA.

What I mean by my statement was the boost can be controlled like a turbo because they are compressing air. You can control when and how much boost they provide, whereas with a roots blower fuel is "usually" injected into the top of the blower mainly for cooling effect.
Not a Procharger expert by any means, but I have discussed with several who run them and have done some research.
I still like the old standard though by far the least maintenance of the 2.

Dave

Never seen one, how does it work?

I agree. Off the crank would eliminate the flexing and belt alignment issue. Except now the internal gearing has to be changed to make it spin as if it had the mechanical advantage that is lost. It's a neat system for sure, but can you imaging how fast that little mouse in there is running to spin it.. lol

I was a maintenance warrant. I always told the flyboys I had a skill.. Nothing but admiration for all my warrant brothers but I can still tease them.
I'm old school where we all wore the squashed bug ( Rising Eagle ) on our collar, now they wear branch insignia so everyone knows who and what they do. I had many senior officers ask what I did,
and the answer was whatever needed to be done.
I usually knew as much or more about anything touching the maintenance field. Not bragging, if you can do it.
Now I look totally bewildered when I talk to this new bunch of younger soldier/officer.

Dave

I've never seen a properly installed, with enough oil clearance eagle H beam break with a 2000 bolt. One I see running is a blown BBC 7.1 that runs 4 15 in a dragster over and over and over again. Bad tuning, and too little clearance breaks everything. When a 1500hp ps motor lives with 37 pound crank that pretty much says it all.

There you go. I believe Indy use to build all their steel rod motors with Eagle not that long ago.

Not sure if this is current, maybe they still do ???
http://indyheads.com/images/price.2015.08.pdf