A bad ballast resistor will cause a no run condition, but not a no start as the resistor is bypassed while engine is cranking....it will start, but die immediately as key is released to the run condition, which does not appear to be the situation with the OP s car.

doul balist resister maby ?

As for fresh gas it's no way old but even then, brake cleaner doesnt do a thing as well, says a lot if you ask me. Even tryed with a seperate battery hooked up to the msd alone to rule out voltage drop to the ignition, but in both situations the voltage stays during the cranking, have a good blue spark from the coil wire during cranking so voltage parts should be ruled out.

Gonna pull the distributor cap tonight to see if the rotor turns logically when cranking
Gonna remove the carb and crank with some brake cleaner to see if it gives a rumble to rule out the carb as well as it feels like the engine is drowning somehow not sparking in the cylinder.

And new plugs again too.

Some questions read concerning ignition system; msd 6al wired directly from the battery (already changed out), no resistors etc. 6al connects to blaster coil (already changed out) with the black & orange wires and also wires to a stock mopar distributor (already changed out) no real voltage drop (see above)

To my feeling its like either drowing way to much fuel which kils the spark (plugs) or having no intake speed not atomizing the fuel or something timing related.
And why doesnt the sound change at all when turning (like an 1" both sides) the distributor while cranking

To be continued..

This is only true if the ballast resistor has only two terminals. The later ballasts had four terminals.It depends on which side of the ballast is bad. I have had this exact condition and it was a bad ballast resistor.

Agree with the removal of ballast resistor with msd.

x

Yes. This was the issue one of my E-Bodies.

I was able to start the car with a remote bump starter. Took the bulkhead connector off, cleaned with a small wire brush and compressed air, used the key start, vrooom, away it went.

So, try hooking up a remote starter to your car, it by-passes the bulkhead connector.

If it lights off, it could be your bulkhead connector.

If not, I'd start by throwing that aftermarket MSD junk in the garbage and replace with Factory parts and keep working backwards until it goes.

Stale gas? If it's 6 months old, it's stale.

Brake cleaner? Brake cleaner won't really burn and if it did run off of it, it will injure or kill you. Phosgene.

Regular 2+2 is a better choice. The engine will run on it. Still need to be used outside.

Check for spark at the plugs ! I'd bet it's weak...Check the resistance of the plug wires also...

He did, that's why I suggested substituting a good known ignition system to isolate the MSD from the trouble.

"Get spark on the plugs as well.

So, do you have a choke on it? Possibly not opening enough? I agree with not using brake clean to run, just use a squirting bottle with gasoline. As mentioned, I'd verify TDC and double check timing. I'm not sure how much change in compression there would be if the timing chain has jumped? I'd maybe check cam timing if you're running out of ideas. Single bolt cam? Single bolt cams have been known to move, if bolt comes loose and breaks the dowel, dowel maybe gone? Just shooting ideas...

what voltage do you get at the + post of the coil while cranking ?

Pretty sure you don't want to measure that with an MSD setup

Whats wrong with starting fluid? That's what I use on stubborn engines.

OOPS ! my mistake ! sorry !

Not a thing. Instant reprime.

I have been around cars a long time and have never even contemplated using brake clean for starting a stubborn engine Some brake clean will hardly even burn. I have used starting fluid as brake clean though....its cheaper.

Anytime you have been trying to start an engine this long you have washed down the cylinders, Do what NITROUSN said and squirt oil in the cylinder. Don't be shy, squirt a bunch in there. Then try again. And don't worry about it fouling the plugs, it will go.

^^^ that would explain why it is cranking over 100 miles per hour

This!!!! Using brake clean removed the oil off the cylinder walls and washed down the cylinders. Do what Nitrousn said and se if that works. It may be too late unfortunately.....

If it's not squeaking when it's turning over, it's probably not too late.