Be a great opportunity to see what the power difference between iron and aluminum blocks are. Then how much the weight savings picks the car up. Never seen a better opportunity than this.

Maybe Todd can post a picture of the back and side of the BMP blocks to show the oil passages.
The Specs say "Priority Main oiling", but it looks like the lifter galleries are fed like a stock Chrysler block, with the exception of the BMP having bushed lifter bores and 0.035" feed holes in the bushings.
The front picture appears to show a Driver's side main oil gallery, but I can't see the side/back.

I wonder if the blocks come suitable for pushrod oiling?
The bushed lifter bores with the little 0.035" hole for oil has to align with the lifter oil hole (when cam on base circle?) to send oil up the pushrod.
And the 0.035" feed holes should help protect the mains if a lifter gets thrown out.

The specs say, "Main Cap Hardware: ARP 1/2″ Studs"
I miss the KB block I sold with my Dart. It had 5/8" studs into the block with 9/16" through the caps with nuts.

Jim that KB sure does look superior for strength. The bigger caps and double oversize side bolts must really help.

I don't really know, but the BMP "World" blocks should still be fine for over 1000 hp. But for 2000 hp, the KB design may be helpful. LOL

What's the price on the block?

That was my thought.

FYI not all KB blocks came with a pair of cross bolts in the caps. I have had both and was never asked or seen on the old order sheet where it was specified.

When I bought my KB in 2006, Ken Black asked me if I wanted double side bolts. I said I didn't think they were needed for my application, but he said it was a no cost option...so I got them.

Never was asked here, I still have the order sheets for the four I've had. Interesting FWIW have had two of each

As far as I know they all come with the double cross bolted mains now. Interesting.
Todd

I visited another racer in North Carolina today to look at the BMP/World aluminum wedge block he bought last week.
I liked what I saw, and it is great that Todd Marsh Performance in NC is getting them and supplying racers!

I am going to share some of my initial impressions in this topic, since Greg sent his directly to his machinist!

The info sheets that come with the block (and available on Bill Mitchell web site) says this:


I did a quick measure of the head bolt holes and all of them seem to be drilled the same amount, about 1.33" deep.
That is the drill, not the threaded depth. The depth of the drill tip vs the full drilled dia may vary +/- from my measurement.
The ARP head studs I brought with me have 1" long coarse threads, and it easily threaded in the block the full 1 inch.
The longest threaded 7/16-14 bolt that Mike had on hand had a tad over 1.1" threaded length, and it threaded all the way in. So the threaded depth is at least 1.1+ inches. I think most BB Mopar head studs have about 1" coarse thread (check yours). That is over 2X the stud diameter, so I am thinking that is fine for most applications.
But I can't understand the Note in the info sheet, since all the holes appear the same depth.

Deck picture with valley area.

Picture of the main caps.

I did verify that there is a small hole in the lifter bore bushings to allow oil from the gallery to the lifters.
The info sheet says it is 0.035" and I couldn't measure the diameter, but I did a rough measurement of how far down from the top of the bushing the oil hole is located.
It is about 0.83" This picture is from the bottom, FWIW.

I did bring some Comp 892 pushrod oiling lifters and a cam with me.
The block comes without cam bearings, so I couldn't slide in my roller cam to see how far from the base circle a lifter would be to the oil hole.

I examined how the "Priority Main Oiling" works on these blocks.
It is similar to the factory Chrysler blocks, except the lifter bores are bushed (with a 0.035" hole to each lifter).
The oil flows from the oil pump across the front of the block to the right side lifter gallery.
Then it flows to the rear and the oil crossover to the left side lifter gallery is different. The factory blocks have the top/rear external oil taps at an angle to the other lifter gallery. These BMP/World blocks have the top/rear holes going straight down (vertical), and a new crossover passage is cast/drilled from the left side horizontally to connect the vertical passages. See my green lines.

I did put a piece of wire from the #5 main to the right side oil gallery (angled blue line), and that same hole in the main saddle has another drilled hole vertically (yellow line) up to oil the cam bearing.

NOTE: You can see it has both transmission bolt patterns; BB Chrysler and GM. But I don't know how you would mount a starter with the stock factory GM transmission.

I guess you could use a midplate with studs in the stock Chrysler location to mount a starter.
But there would be nothing in the stock GM trans bellhousing to support a Chrysler starter nose.
And I believe you would need to modify the GM bellhousing for clearance. So you can't just borrow a spare Powerglide from a Chevy racer.

I did lay a used Cometic MLS head gasket on the deck. The water holes in the back (round) and front (not round) appear to fit fine with this gasket that was from about 2010.

The info sheets that come with the block (and available on Bill Mitchell web site) says this:


I think this info is for the Hemi block. My World Hemi block circa 2008 requires longer valley studs.

Mark

I bought mine through Todd at Marsh perf. Each retailer will set thier price, usually discounting the retail price some. And that will change a bit as more blocks hit the market. I recommend dealing with Todd at Marsh. Knowledgeable and goes out of his way to take care of customers.