I have a 68 Charger that is currently a bare shell. As I am working on it I need to be deciding what to power it with. I would like some form of a big block at this time. It will be a 727 car ( manual valve body) and a Dana 60 ( don't know ratio yet)

I am seeking opinions on what type of big block I can get away with on a street driven car. I do not have ET goals in mind, and I do not mind a rough idle and low vacuum. My first thought was a 400 based 470. The car will have to run on Pump 93.

So, with no parts to start with, what would be a good combination and what compression ratio can I get away with? If I have not provided enough information please let me know. Thank you.

On the wedge motors it seems we can only get away with 10.7:1 for compression on 93 octane. It will run good on that with no pinging and full timing.

We use these kits with great success....Go as big as you can go....440/541 is about the limit.

http://www.440source.com/strokerkits.htm

Thank you for that. I am not looking to set the world on fire, but an honest 600 hp would be perfect. I will check out those stroker kits.

Is anyone still running flat tappet cams? I know that rollers are popular now, but I was thinking solid flat tappet. Please let me know if I am heading in the wrong direction about the cam.

We have had zero luck with non-roller lifter cams....Even ones that worked for years are now failing. I suspect they changed the oils and there is not enough zinc, even though they say there is...Been lied to before.....

Few buddy’s i race with have used Howards flat tappet cams( they also make the Hughes stuff) and the Howards EDM lifters with absolutely zero failures both street and strip.
I used the Lucas hot rod oil, has a ton of zinc in it

I would suggest a +.030" 440/512 source kit (440.512.5060) with TF270 heads which should give you around 10.6:1 and a mild SFT cam somewhere in the 550>600" with 240-250ish@.050 dur., but fastplymouth on here is your man for that, and 3.54 gears. 600hp should be easy and similar torque which is paramount in a heavy street car...

I'd start with a 440 block and build a 505. Keep the compression down around 10:1, use Trick Flow 240 heads and run a small hyd roller cam. You'll have more header choices with the 440 block. The 505 goes together very easily and the 240 heads are the best bang for the buck. The cam doesn't need to be any larger than 240@050 to make 600/600 hp and torque.

Like Andy said...... 10:1 440/505 with TF240’s.

Either a SFT or HR will get it done.

Can be easily done with no custom parts.

With a hydraulic roller like Andy F suggests what kind of spring pressure would you need?

Yep, it practically falls together and makes 600 hp as easy as falling out of a tree! Use a Holley Street Dominator intake to fit everything under a stock hood. Hedman 78030 is a good, economical header that fits a lot of B-bodies.

I would build the 400 block after having it sonic tested first and then use a 4.25 stroke crank with what ever size pistons you need to get under 10.7 to 1 compression with the aluminum heads you use. I would use the Trick Flow 270 heads with a matching intake manifold with a 850 CFM carb or bigger and a cam that has at least 250@.050 duration ground on a 108 LSA installed at or around 104 ILC with as much lift you can get and 2.0 inch headers with a 3.0 inch exhausts system

It really depends on what the cam profile dictates(like for any build).

Most people opting for TF heads and going with a hyd roller would just get the heads with their HR spring package....... which is a pretty stout spring(About 160 on the seat and 428lb/in rate).

Yes that is what I was going to say. Just buy the TF240 heads with hyd roller springs and then use a modest roller cam package. It should all be plug and play. You can consult with an expert like Dwayne if you want a roller cam tweaked for your specific combo or use a catalog cam. The Trick Flow hyd cam is 243/247 and it works pretty well in a 505 so a person can just buy the Trick Flow top end kit and get the full meal deal. The TF intake is a little tall for a stock hood but if you have the room it works great. If you don't have the room then use a SC or a M1 or something along those lines.

I was asking about springs because I already have Indy EZ heads set up for sft.

The hyd roller cam included in the Trick Flow top end kit is ground on 108 so it will have a bit of rough idle. Fairly easy to tame in a 505 with EFI but should work with a carb also. A little bit of extra stall speed in the convertor will help. I don't think you want deep gears with an engine like this. Stay in the 3's for sure. I have a 3.89 in the Duster with a tall tire and 3.23 in my Coronet but it has a deep first gear. 3.5 or 3.7 also work pretty well depending on tire size. Doctor Diff has the 3.23 gears for the Dana now. Those might be too high for a 727 but they work perfect in my Coronet with the Doug Nash 5 speed. Here are the specs on the TF cam: https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-61602003

The TF270’s with either the 337 intake or an Indy dual plane are other options that leave door open a little wider for possible future power upgrades.

The 270 heads could be used if a person wanted a little more top end power and was willing to give up a little on the bottom end. I have a B-body project in my shop right now that has a 505 with TF270 heads and a 260/266 street roller cam. That engine made right at 700 hp with 650 torque peak at 4900. That guy went with 4.10 gears which are aa good match for the 270 heads, but a little steep for freeway driving. Personally I lean towards the 240 heads with 3.50 gears but if a person wants to go with the extra spicy then 270 heads and 4.10 gears will fill the bill.

So I see people suggesting to put together a smaller combo in a BBM.....505, 512, etc.....The 440Source kits for BBM's are the same price for the smaller kits to the biggest kits.....So a 440 block can go to 541, and a 400 block can go to 512....In a big B-body, the 400 based engine will look small in there. So go big and bring extra money for new rear tires!

Just out of curiosity, what is the price range of the engines being discussed here? Break it down any way you want; just parts, parts and machining, parts, machining and some assembly, flat tappet, roller, porting. It would seem to me the that estimated cost on these different combos would put them into better context. Carb or EFI can be separated out due to the vast cost variations.

So it is well known that the Trick Flow heads are great for the money. Does anybody run the suggested Trick Flow cam?