Maybe one way to increase rocker oiling without the full groove would be to chamfer the
holes in the journal slightly to increase a bit the time the block galleries are exposed to pressure
without too much oil being diverted from the rods.

Joe

PS Similar to, (but not exactly) the reason for grooved rocker shafts and 3/4 grooved main bearings

By using a lifter that has pressurized oil going down to the roller or needle bearings eliminates the need to rely on splash only. Having pushrod oiling is good for wedge engines to avoid burning PR cups. I use the AMC spec 904 lifter with oil up the exhaust only. When I 1st installed this deal I lost 15 lbs of OP at idle HOT. Restricting the PR oiling gave me back the 15 lbs of op. So far I can get about 10k miles before rebuilding which is about 5 years. 230# on the seat and 650 over the nose.
Streeter beater with 25 passes in a good year.

I got a set of the Herbert TDV lifters new in box if anyone wants them, picked them up in a package deal, how I like to buy stuff Yes i belive they are Morels as well. Low idle issues are common on all roller lifters and all makes. They can actually "stall" when at low rpms. But some guys love to idle to 900rpm for some reason.

As for lifters depends on the application. If you want the best then buy a keyway Jesel, but they too can fail But most folks don't need a $2800 set of lifters and the accompanying $1200 set of bushings needed. I have run the comp solid body ones in the past with not a lot of issues, but in milder engines. The Isky Red Zones, Crower Hipppo, BAM, Crane stuff is all very nice and will work fine for 99.9% of whats done on this board.

Al: if they will work for me I will take them. Thanks. Birdtracker

There's a better way to supply full-time oiling to the rocker shafts rather than grooving the #4 cam journal, but requires block work prior to assembly. Drill a small hole in the valley between the vertical top-end oiling channel and the horizontal oiling channel for the lifters. Then tap the hole and cap the hole with a set screw with thread sealant. Follow-up with oil restrictors at the deck or in the heads, Carter carb jets can work for this. The rockers now feed off the lifter oil galleys, and the #4 main, #6 rod, and #7 rod don't see a pressure drop when the cam holes line-up. You can go one step further and block the vertical oiling passage between the #4 main and the #4 cam bearing, for the #4 cam bearing now gets additional oiling from the lifter galleys making the oil supply to the #4 cam redundant. It's not a necessary step.

Doug Herbert still offers the original solid roller lifters designed by Chet. They're heavy and robust with a large wheel and needles, but no pin oiling. I like them for moderate applications. USA made and under $400. Not the best, but not the worst.
https://www.herbertcams.com/bb-chrysler-vertical-bar-solid-roller-lifters/

I reading all the replies with interest. Like I said this is a moderate build occasional track car.

Regular lashing is how to catch a roller going away. Also verify the lash hot & cold for future reference

I have no problems with regular maintenance. Should I decide to go with a hydraulic roller my valve springs are set up 155#@1.88 and 360#@ 1.3. {Comp 928] Would those springs work? I've been looking at the Howards Hyd rollers.