I know this subject has come up before. What are my choices for good reasonably priced solid roller lifters? This is a somewhat mild build RB 511 ,indy EZ heads standard port. Not going for max hp.Stock block. This is not a daily driver mostly a track car but occasional street time. I'll have someone more knowledgeable then me spec a cam that is easy on parts. I have read some some of the posts where guys are using hydraulic rollers making decent power so that is not out of the question either.

a friend told me there is no good cheap roller lifters. Birdtracker

I just went through this myself and this is what I think.
Seems like the hydraulic roller lifters are just not that great in reliability, and with the heavy valvetrain of a BB, you just can't run enough spring to make them work the way you want. Just my opinion....

As far as solid rollers, I would stay away from the smaller axle rollers. If your block is lifter bushed and plan on running pin oiling, you need to consider a totally different lifter body.

For me, I had a lifter bushed block and the Crower lifters appealed to me so they made me a set of BB chevy 904 bodied lifters on a BB mopar tie-bar. I went with the Crowers because I liked the orbit-formed axle retention (without retaining clips) and the HIPPO pin option and larger axle and wheels. I'm sure others will have there own favorite lifter opinions.
AG.

I agree. I didn't say cheap. I said reasonably priced. Reliable. I have a couple of friends who have used the Comp 829's with no problems. But haven't heard anything good lately.

. When buying Roller lifters and roller rockers you should pick out the best you can afford and then save your money to buy better ones. A failure here can be catastrophic.

Features to keep in mind:
Bushings instead of needle bearings. don't want those little bits of hard steel floating around in your engine
Pressure lube axles.
Can not uncover oil galleys at base circle or max lift.
If you want to pushrod oil the rockers make sure the lifters can do that. Some don't. Do not rely on the description on their web page. Sometimes they say pushrod oiling but that feature is for Gm not Mopar. You might have to get AMC spec lifters.

Morel makes good lifters for the industry.

https://morellifters.com/dealers

I have read about the Comp AMC lifters. This is a stock unbushed block. Rockers oiled thru the shafts.

If your cam is not grooved on the #4 journal for oiling the shafts full time now you should have that done to help get more oil on the valve springs for extra cooling, especially for the street use

What's the spring pressures? S/F...Ken M

As of now they are set up for sft 155/ 355. That will be determined by the cam specs. If I go to solid roller the #4 will get a groove a friend even suggested this.

I'd use the Comp AMC lifters with the Mopar width tie bars. That gives you pressurized oiling to the wheel and to the pushrod. Then I'd use an oiling type pushrod so I have pressure fed oil to the ball and cup. With oil at the wheel and at the ball and cup you should be good to go. Just keep an eye on the lash so you know if anything is moving around or going away on you. You'll also want to use the Hughes oil pump gear if possible since the bronze gears tend to wear out fairly quickly. But you can run a bronze gear as long as you pull it out every 1000 miles and inspect it.

I wouldn't groove the #4 journal on the cam. When you do that it pulls oil away from the adjacent rod bearings and you can smoke a bearing.

I've been using the 892 Comp Cams roller lifters on 2 of my engines for 10+years now & thats with loading thats over 700lb on the nose. The oldest set is starting to require replacements now but I am seriously happy with the life & performance I have received from them. I'll probably replace my oldest set after this next season, but I'll buy the same again, no problem.

so I got bit hard by this topic this summer. First my old motor had Comp 829s in it forever. 400 passes easy. Got the first set and the body broke down where the axle goes thru. So had a Moparts member here send me 16 relatively new ones that had flat spots on 12 of 16 of the axle. You could feel it with your finger just rolling it. I also was measuring body diameters and they were not all .904 so I sent them back to him and told him what I thought. I know Crane offers a very good lifter that Indy recommended to me and they were around $650-$700. They have roller bearings. My next choice would be bushed Isky red zone. There is a bushed version and a roller bearing version. Birdtracker

I just picked up a solid roller and did some research regarding the same question. The BAM roller lifters with the larger .815 roller is what I decided to go with. They make a nice piece and are available with an offset as well.

These are the guys who made them for Crane according to the fellow who recommended them to me.
Not cheap , but nice parts.
GS products

what do u mean a grove on the cam it self

I think he means instead of the head getting oil to the top only when the oiling holes in the cam journal align with each
head, if you were to groove completely around that cam journal,
oil will be supplied constantly to the heads.

Thus Andy's concern.

Joe

oh ok

I've run the Herbert Roller TDV lifters for several years. I learned the hard way buy the Alpha S608 240lbs springs and really really good rockers.

My engine guy says the Herbert lifter are Morrel lifters.

Don't let the engine idle super low for extended periods as that kills roller lifters in BB Mopars - My engine will actually idle at 600RPM but I leave it around 1000RPM to help the lifter oiling.

I flog hundreds of laps a year on my junk 383 and used to break the mopar/crane rockers on a monthly basis.

I think this contributed to couple of lifters going bad over the years.

I finally upgraded to the Hughes Cryo treated rockers and Alpha s608 springs and things have been solid since.

Last year I did finally break a herbert cam in half after countless runs. I'm guessing all those broken rockers finally caught up.