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Parasitic draw or bad battery #2864873
12/26/20 12:40 PM
12/26/20 12:40 PM
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larrymopar360 Offline OP
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Been wondering if I have a parasitic draw or battery going bad in my Diplomat AHB. Battery runs down way to quick after sitting just a week to ten days in the garage. It's a big Interstate just over three years old. I finally got around to pulling negative cable and checking with multi-meter, and shows 60 milliamps. I thought this was kind of a lot, but wasn't sure, so I pulled every single fuse, and NO change.

Battery going bad? Am I missing something? I pulled every fuse. Is 60 Ma unusual necessarily?

Thanks.

Larry


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: larrymopar360] #2864879
12/26/20 12:51 PM
12/26/20 12:51 PM
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Ensure you have everything turned off, map lights etc. if you have a newer vehicle with an ECM etc. you will need to let it "time out" or "go to sleep" for testing the draw, this includes ensuring your door is closed (no draw from a dome light, under hood light etc.)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal, now make that connection by hooking an ammeter between the batteries negative terminal and the disconnected battery cable end.
This will tell you the draw.
You can pull fuses and disconnect things until you find the suspect circuit. Then you will know if you have an excessive draw.


Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: UCUDANT] #2864884
12/26/20 01:07 PM
12/26/20 01:07 PM
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Disconnect the alternator and check it again.

Kevin

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: Twostick] #2864903
12/26/20 02:01 PM
12/26/20 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Twostick
Disconnect the alternator and check it again.

Kevin
Okay, will do. So are you saying 60Ma could be normal, and should always test with alternator disconnected, or that alternator might be bad (bad diode)?. I'm going to test with it disconnected, just wondering what to conclude afterward. If no change and still 60Ma then what? Or, if significant drop? Thanks, Larry.


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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: Twostick] #2864910
12/26/20 02:15 PM
12/26/20 02:15 PM
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Harriman NY
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71GTX471 Offline
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Originally Posted by Twostick
Disconnect the alternator and check it again.

Kevin


Feel the alt.& see if its warm,alts.can draw on a battery when there's an internal fault.

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: 71GTX471] #2864911
12/26/20 02:16 PM
12/26/20 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 71GTX471
Originally Posted by Twostick
Disconnect the alternator and check it again.

Kevin


Feel the alt.& see if its warm,alts.can draw on a battery when there's an internal fault.
Okay will do. It was really strange that the meter never moved even a tiny bit when I pulled any of the fuses. Thanks! Larry


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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: UCUDANT] #2864916
12/26/20 02:22 PM
12/26/20 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by UCUDANT
Ensure you have everything turned off, map lights etc. if you have a newer vehicle with an ECM etc. you will need to let it "time out" or "go to sleep" for testing the draw, this includes ensuring your door is closed (no draw from a dome light, under hood light etc.)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal, now make that connection by hooking an ammeter between the batteries negative terminal and the disconnected battery cable end.
This will tell you the draw.
You can pull fuses and disconnect things until you find the suspect circuit. Then you will know if you have an excessive draw.


when disconnecting the neg.batt. terminal to connect a DVOM you have to hold the leeds against the terminals if it disconnects & goes open the vehi.wakes up again {on newer cars} & you have to wait for it to go to sleep again.

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: 71GTX471] #2864932
12/26/20 02:39 PM
12/26/20 02:39 PM
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"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: 71GTX471] #2864939
12/26/20 02:52 PM
12/26/20 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 71GTX471
Originally Posted by UCUDANT
Ensure you have everything turned off, map lights etc. if you have a newer vehicle with an ECM etc. you will need to let it "time out" or "go to sleep" for testing the draw, this includes ensuring your door is closed (no draw from a dome light, under hood light etc.)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal, now make that connection by hooking an ammeter between the batteries negative terminal and the disconnected battery cable end.
This will tell you the draw.
You can pull fuses and disconnect things until you find the suspect circuit. Then you will know if you have an excessive draw.


when disconnecting the neg.batt. terminal to connect a DVOM you have to hold the leeds against the terminals if it disconnects & goes open the vehi.wakes up again {on newer cars} & you have to wait for it to go to sleep again.
Dodge Diplomat AHB. '89. I had help so leads were secure. Had to have help so I could pull fuses one by one.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: larrymopar360] #2864943
12/26/20 02:59 PM
12/26/20 02:59 PM
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what does the battery voltage measure just sitting there?
I ran into the same question and then remembered that a battery going bad isn't going to have a high resting voltage like a new one.
the battery was 12.5 volts. vs the normal 13.5 you would expect.
I even ran it on a charger for a while and it came back down to the 12.5 volts after just sitting.

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: Andrewh] #2864962
12/26/20 03:59 PM
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I've had a lot of bad batteries the last few years. Some even loose their charge being disconnected. Others being connected even the smallest load like what the clock memory draws is enough to make a difference even if the battery holds a charge when it's disconnected.

If you have the ignition switch light make sure that goes off. That stopped timing out on a friends car. Unless there's something aftermarket the only real stuff on an M to cause drains is problems with the radio, ignition module, or a light that's not going out. Or the alternator thing that was mentioned altho I've never personally seen that problem.

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: Andrewh] #2864969
12/26/20 04:15 PM
12/26/20 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrewh
what does the battery voltage measure just sitting there?
I ran into the same question and then remembered that a battery going bad isn't going to have a high resting voltage like a new one.
the battery was 12.5 volts. vs the normal 13.5 you would expect.
I even ran it on a charger for a while and it came back down to the 12.5 volts after just sitting.


I wouldn't expect a 13.5V reading on a battery. 12.6v is fully charged. 12.5v isn't bad at all.

https://haynes.com/en-us/tips-tutorials/how-test-car-battery-multimeter

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: 5thAve] #2864971
12/26/20 04:26 PM
12/26/20 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 5thAve
I've had a lot of bad batteries the last few years. Some even loose their charge being disconnected. Others being connected even the smallest load like what the clock memory draws is enough to make a difference even if the battery holds a charge when it's disconnected.

If you have the ignition switch light make sure that goes off. That stopped timing out on a friends car. Unless there's something aftermarket the only real stuff on an M to cause drains is problems with the radio, ignition module, or a light that's not going out. Or the alternator thing that was mentioned altho I've never personally seen that problem.
I thought about the ignition light but either it's burned out or disabled due to AHB. Factory radio so minimal draw there. As you mention, not much on M bodies. I'm going to test again with alternator disconnected. I did leave negative cable disconnected yesterday after testing, just to see if that changes anything. I probably won't have a chance to get back to testing it again for a week or so anyway.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: 5thAve] #2864992
12/26/20 05:42 PM
12/26/20 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 5thAve
I've had a lot of bad batteries the last few years. Some even loose their charge being disconnected. Others being connected even the smallest load like what the clock memory draws is enough to make a difference even if the battery holds a charge when it's disconnected.

If you have the ignition switch light make sure that goes off. That stopped timing out on a friends car. Unless there's something aftermarket the only real stuff on an M to cause drains is problems with the radio, ignition module, or a light that's not going out. Or the alternator thing that was mentioned altho I've never personally seen that problem.


Gonna add rear window defrost to list.

Also, forgive me,but I've noticed in a lot of your post you feel to follow diplomat with AHB or AFB why is that?

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: moparjim79] #2865003
12/26/20 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by moparjim79
Originally Posted by 5thAve
I've had a lot of bad batteries the last few years. Some even loose their charge being disconnected. Others being connected even the smallest load like what the clock memory draws is enough to make a difference even if the battery holds a charge when it's disconnected.

If you have the ignition switch light make sure that goes off. That stopped timing out on a friends car. Unless there's something aftermarket the only real stuff on an M to cause drains is problems with the radio, ignition module, or a light that's not going out. Or the alternator thing that was mentioned altho I've never personally seen that problem.


Gonna add rear window defrost to list.

Also, forgive me,but I've noticed in a lot of your post you feel to follow diplomat with AHB or AFB why is that?


AHB means cop spec, lots of differences between the cop and civilian spec M bodies.

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: larrymopar360] #2865057
12/26/20 08:58 PM
12/26/20 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by larrymopar360
Been wondering if I have a parasitic draw or battery going bad in my Diplomat AHB. Battery runs down way to quick after sitting just a week to ten days in the garage. It's a big Interstate just over three years old. I finally got around to pulling negative cable and checking with multi-meter, and shows 60 milliamps. I thought this was kind of a lot, but wasn't sure, so I pulled every single fuse, and NO change.

Battery going bad? Am I missing something? I pulled every fuse. Is 60 Ma unusual necessarily?

Thanks.

Larry


Yessir and that will drain a good battery. If pulling the fues didn't identify the culprit then it is something likely connected all the time, IE: alternator as suggested, starter, starter relay (doubtful), ignition switch or wiring in the column. Has to be something that is non fused (box wise) and connected to the battery when the switch is off. I had one that drove us nuts for a bit, it was the clock motor that wound the spring. The clock didn't work so I didn't think to looks at it. However the points that open when the spring is wound were stuck shut thereby energizing the clock motor 24/7. Can't remeber the draw but it was 30ma + I think, Happy hunting and do keep up posted beer)

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: TJP] #2865080
12/26/20 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by larrymopar360
Been wondering if I have a parasitic draw or battery going bad in my Diplomat AHB. Battery runs down way to quick after sitting just a week to ten days in the garage. It's a big Interstate just over three years old. I finally got around to pulling negative cable and checking with multi-meter, and shows 60 milliamps. I thought this was kind of a lot, but wasn't sure, so I pulled every single fuse, and NO change.

Battery going bad? Am I missing something? I pulled every fuse. Is 60 Ma unusual necessarily?

Thanks.

Larry


Yessir and that will drain a good battery. If pulling the fues didn't identify the culprit then it is something likely connected all the time, IE: alternator as suggested, starter, starter relay (doubtful), ignition switch or wiring in the column. Has to be something that is non fused (box wise) and connected to the battery when the switch is off. I had one that drove us nuts for a bit, it was the clock motor that wound the spring. The clock didn't work so I didn't think to looks at it. However the points that open when the spring is wound were stuck shut thereby energizing the clock motor 24/7. Can't remeber the draw but it was 30ma + I think, Happy hunting and do keep up posted beer)
Thanks for reply. I'm going to first try disconnecting alternator. Hope that's it, because I actually have a spare taking up room.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: larrymopar360] #2865191
12/27/20 11:11 AM
12/27/20 11:11 AM
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When you first take a battery off the charger you will have a "surface charge" which is really fake news for voltage. Do something like turn the headlights on for a second then back off and you will see the actual voltage after that. A fully charged 12V battery at rest should be 12.65-12.75 at rest. Even as low as 12.3 is significantly discharged and has a big effect on the output capability.

The alternator is a good place to check like mentioned before. It sure is frustrating when the item that charges the battery also discharges it.


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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: Bad340fish] #2865216
12/27/20 12:27 PM
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If you have an aftermarket voltage gauge installed, it could be that as well. I had one it my Powerwagon, that would discharge the battery enough in a week, it wouldn't turn over. Not sure why a gauge would do that, but it did.

Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery [Re: 440_Offroader] #2865261
12/27/20 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 440_Offroader
If you have an aftermarket voltage gauge installed, it could be that as well. I had one it my Powerwagon, that would discharge the battery enough in a week, it wouldn't turn over. Not sure why a gauge would do that, but it did.


Good suggestion wink It did that because it is supposed to be hooked up to a "switched" source meaning it turns off with the ignition switch or it will continue to draw current and drain the battery. We have seen that issue a couple of times ourselves beer

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