Hello there. Here is my issue- I have a 2014 Jeep SRT, 109k miles, that has been a pretty great vehicle until recently. It is throwing a code p1414, which is a cylinder #4 fault, and occasionally a p0304 which is a cylinder 4 misfire.

It had the lifters replaced under warranty ( induction system serviced code ) at 94k miles.

Last week changed the oil ( drained all day until it stopped) and filter. Previously upon start up it would have lifter tick for about 5-15 seconds, then run quiet. When I started it up after the oil change, it was the quietest I had ever heard it-sliky smooth. I did not drive it until today- thats when the trouble arose.

See, for the last year, I've been switching it to sport mode which cuts out eco mode all together because this code has been a head scratcher to resolve. After numerous avenues traveled all led to the same few things
Oil
Lifter
MDS solenoid
Bad electrical ( pcm, coil, plug, injector, mds solenoids)

So I started easy and went as far as I could. Swapped coils, plugs, injectors, then pulled intake and inspected the valve and then on the advice of a Mopar tech, replaced the MDS solenoid ( the lifter Valley one, not the one directly behind the timing chain area), and after the solenoid was replaced it was fine.....
for about 2k miles maybe and started acting a fool again.
Oil weight is the Mopar recommended 0w40 as well.
I did not pull the valve cover off. I feel like this is an electrical problem.

The reason I asked if there was any Chrysler techs on the board is i wanted to know what you've seen in the field regarding this issue.

Oh yeah, other things
Oil pressure at idle warmed up is 40 psi at 201 degrees F, 60 psi cruising.
Jeep idles like its old school cammed now, but if I paddle shift it I can drive it around, but not flog it or give it more than 1/2 throttle

When I pulled the intake and injectors I replaced the seals just to i sure no vacuum leaks, also glazed everything with super lube

Anything I should brace for/inspect

Thanks

not a tec .but,
owner with a bad cam/lifter issue.. new engine fixed mine.................

I've read that same type of reply elsewhere and always wondered if an engine replacement was deemed more time efficient than a cam and lifter change.

Thanks for the reply

Not a tech. Possibly a bad injector or injector seal on #4? Happened to me once (non Mopar). With my old school train of thought, misfire meant "electrical" in my mind. Nope...bad injector seals.

I think most of us have the same background. Appreciated, but I did not only swap, but I did replace the seals of the ones I removed. I too had the same problem. My srt 4 threw a misfire cyl 1 code that everyone said was the intake gasket. Nope.

Thanks 4 the reply

You could try moving that injector to another cylinder and see if the problem moves with it. An injector failure while not common is certainly not impossible. You can even use a 9V battery to open it and spray some cleaner through it to see if it does indeed open and flow something.

Thank you for the reply, but as I stated above, I did swap the injectors.

hi mopar , broken valve spring or roller lifter + roller cam going flat . google it . tons of failures . ronnie

8mm

Hello 69er, so I got it back from a very reputable garage today ( I wanted a place I trust with the array of proper diag equipment to give me re assurance) it was not electrical related. So my worse fear is most probably confirmed- cam and lifter job. I have yet to pull the valve cover but im not optimistic. As far as Google goes, I've typed every single way I could I to how to diagnose and fix code p1414 which is the predominant code and there's really nothing on it. The cylinder misfire p 030fillintheblanknumber was only a random at best code.

In any event, I will continue to update this thread for those who give a frag so they don't go mad like I did chasing ghosts!
More to come and thanks everyone!

Hi Jim , yup good ole roller lifter failure and roller cam dying . sorry to hear . once you pop the valve covers check cyl 's 1 +3 for going flat . we just did a 2013 jeep overland 5.7 last month for my buddy's bro-in-law side job . took over 3 weekends , plus fixing the broken snapped exhaust studs in the heads . I do AGREE with your statement about engine replacement VS cam + lifter replacement depending on mileage and if used in the salt belt . Let's keep the info flowing on this post . Ronnie . Happy Turkey Day everyone !

Started tear down today. Pulled front bumper cover off to prepare for cam removal. Pulled pass side valve cover. Plugs on cyl 4 were a bit wet and smelled like petrol. Everything looks brand new. Ran out of time, did not remove rockers or rods, but it all appears to look great.

Did a little more digging around today. May have an idea of why things are looking so fresh under the valve covers. Uncovered a sticker on the front of the drivers side cyl head. Had a stamp for serial#, a stamp for vin #, and a build date....... build date was 4-16, uh ohhhh. More to follow

Don't know if I should be happy or mad. Pulled the pass side cyl head off and pulled the lifters out. They look like they were installed last week. Absolute minimal wear, "axles" are tight with absolutely zero play. Trying to find a borescope so I can inspect the cam inside the block. To be continued...

Hi MoparJim , Happy Holidays ! It's been over a month . Do you have any good Mopar HEMI news to update or post about ? Just curious . Merry Christmas to Everyone . Ronnie .

Merry Christmas to all! So, I did use a borescope, the cam looks like it was just broken in. When I pulled the #4 and #6 MDS solenoids, the magnets at the bottom of the oil passages were also removed and were covered with a " metallic slurry" which i was told was very typical but not indicative of anything destroyed. I also pulled the oil control valve, it was clean and looked great with zero metal fragments.

Will resume operations after the new years

Be safe everyone!

Here's an update:

Thanks to Moparts, I was able to source all needed items to "repair" the jeep. Moparpartsoverstock.com is a great resource! I wound up just replacing the front bank lifter set which fixed the problem.

So just a heads up to all who venture into the new hemi arena: just because your lifters appear fine/new, they do fail without wiping a camshaft out or the rollers.