I know its semi regular question .
I have my street/strip satellite with a 505 World iron block .
I use mity mounts and a solid torque strap .
Will solids affect the block ? Is this hearsay or not ?
I noticed the eng mounts run a cross bolt way smaller then hole in k frame . With cross bolt loose i could raise motor enough to fit 5mm wheel align shims (right side ) between mount and frame pedastal . . Schumachers run a larger cross bolt , 1/2" ?
At this point it wont get a plate , not sure i am ready for that plus it is tight for room between rad and motor/ fans .

I did have fan eat the radiator 2 weeks ago at the strip after lifting . Mounts are not broken , it looks like r/h side of motor may lifted just enough for clutch fan to clip shroud and that was end of that .
I have run the same fan/radiator for about 10 years . I had Mopar performance fan and a AFCO radiator .
I have another AFCO rad and a shorter hub clutch fan . Plus i may upgrade to the 1990s and try Aust Ford Falcon twin elec fans

Tex

Do you have anything (usually a strut) that limits fore/aft travel ?
You're running rubber engine & trans mounts ?
Generally a torque strap only limits rotational travel.
My drag car's used solid R&L engine mounts and a rubber trans mount for decades, with either a 340 or (currently) R1 block.
It has an electric fan for post-run cooling with engine off.

Topside ,
Mounts are rubber but have bolt through them , must move more than the old schumakers i ran . . I had thought of fore/aft limiter . That will be this weeks job . Along with fitting new rad . I wiil fit from cross member to trans ear at rear r/hand side , seems easiest . Will measure it up tomorrow on the hoist .
I do run a transbrake leaving @ 4500 . And being in Aust means no ready available solid mounts , unless i made some .
Vibrations arent a worry

Tex

i i used 2 solid motor mounts in the early 80s,shook my teeth out,leave the stock one one the pass side,or just get a engine limiter,make one or buy on from mancini

I run solid mounts both sides on my roadrunner. It’s a street car. No issues, works well.

Same here with our street/strip RR with mega block motor...no probs.

My sons turbo car with a brake runs a solid left mount. The right mount is stock. Runs a brake, pro bracket M/Ts, and weighs 3775. Been that way since it was built.
Doug

JFI. You will have to remove the D/S motor mount if you ever go to a dual line oiling system though (at least on an E body you will)

Not if you use the correct pump cover !!

Hmm... there was no way it would work with a KB block and the Milodon sandwich plate on my car (74 Ebody) stock pump or any of the Milodon covers including billet ones. I even had to cut into the steering box bracket, it was the same on the QA1 tubular K member too. I might have got away with it using the Indy block as it has a built in dual line provision but it was already gone.

I run a solid mount on the drivers side. You can't tell anything is different from the rubber type.

Member farmboy made them for the '63 and after they were painted black they look stock.

He made both sides but I only used the drivers side.

I use drivers side solid, passenger side stock rubber. Works good with one side note: the small movement that the rubber mount allows causes the solid to loosen slightly over time @ the main stud nut. I’m currently toying with the idea of adding a solid to the pass side simply to stop that issue, simply because it’s a pain to get a wrench to that bolt with my headers. The way it is now, you hardly notice any vibration at all. My car is a fairly mild street / strip deal, not as raucous as most guys here. I use the Moroso steel mounts.

ok thanks guys .
i really like simple , so i will chase solid mounts . Have to wait till i order something from the USA .
In the meantime i will make a limiter .
I am hoping to race Jan 8 BUT ........

Tex

I bought a VE valiant years ago that had been raced quite a bit through its life, along with being street driven. I think it was a B/Street car back in the day. Anyway, whomever built the car, took a pair of the factory rubber isolators and welded some steel plates to the sides to make them solid. No idea how long they were in there for, but it looked like a while. Might be an option to try if you've got some mounts lying around.

I didn't notice the engines mounts causing vibration, the rear ladder bar set up this car had made enough noise and vibration, I didn't notice.

My suggestion is to use both solid mounts, and be sure to retain the isolated trans mount. Don’t solid mount all three.

I've had two Dusters, one race car and one street and strip car, with Elephant ears for the front mounts and a stock tranny mount, worked good, lasted a long time

with ears or a front plate, make sure you use a fore/aft limiter of some kind.
that keeps the front of the engine from doing bad things to the radiator or electric puller fan.
the engine/transmission combo moves around more than you think when using a plate style front mount.

I just changed over to the Mity Mounts from solids on both sides. Haven't been to the track yet, but there is a definite difference in the vibrations in the car. My car, being a stick car, I'm concerned with how long these mounts will hold up. I broke many stock mounts with a turnbuckles in the past. I do most of my driving on the street, but love to run the car occasionally at the track. No turn buckle so far. May do that if required later on, we'll see??? I actually fabricated a stock mount to look like the driverside Mity Mount. So I have two driverside mounts on the car. Why? I actually torn the "K" member passenger side engine mount plate from the "K" member. I've re-welded it with additional support so it won't happen again.