Hi! Im looking back on my stroker build 440 to 493 cui 2 years ago that be a succes. I have about 2000 trouble free miles on it now. I just think of all the grining in the engine block that i have done that no one else have done when they have built a Mopar stroker from a 440 block with a 4,150" crank, 6,760" H rods. I had to grind for clearance in the oil boss a lot and also in the 440 source 3/8 oil pick up tube for a 7" deep oil pan(see added pics), in all cylinder bottoms for clear the rods and als in 3 places for the crank counter weights. Is there really so much difference in the blocks? I must have get the one really special block (440 -77) because i really needed to grind alot to get 080" clearance everywhere. Just a thought. Im really happy with the engine, its a street engine 10,4:1 with a pretty mild 231/237@050 cam, making huge torque and is perfect in my Chrysler 300 -64.

I went from 3.75 stroke to 4.500, and skipped everything between that....so take what I say with a grain of salt.

as a long time student of these builds I have observed the usual difference that people mention is
the rod journal size. The Chrysler 2 and 3/8" journal needing noticeably more clearance grinding than the big block
chevy 2.200. The big end of the rod takes up less space with the 2.200 journal.

I would have to guess, between the 6.76 rod length and the amount of grinding there, yours most likely has regular 383/440,
2 and 3/8 inch rod journals.

additional clearance along with all the other options the big block chevy rod offers (length selection in .100 increments, wrist pin options, bearing options and so on)
is the usual reason many folks don't use mopar dimension rods in these builds.

The smarter way to make more HP and torque is to have your existing crank offset ground down to BB Chevy rod sizes and increase the stroke to either 4.250 or 4.300, then buy the cheaper BB Chevy rods in the 7.100 long with .990 pins and have pistons made for your bore size. Probably to late now, huh Next time
Some blocks will need a little (.030) grinding and others will need closer to .060 to clear the rod bolts to the oil pickup boss

Yes next time😊. Im happy with this engine, its working really well and are a bless to drive around on the streets and if i give it throttle the engine throw my 300 away like a bullet, huge torque and thats what i want on the street. I remember i just be surprice it was so much grinding work with this set up, alot more than others i have seen build 4,150" and 6,760, really much on the oil boss and also on the pick up tube, lucky i could keep it intact. Well i just wonder if there was some one more than me with this same experiance bec i have seen many build a stroker with this same set up but noone with the same grinding work as me.

I built a Hemi with a 4.15" stroke, with an internal pickup, & standard Chrysler rod journals. Presently, I'm currently building a second Hemi with the same specs. Your grinding experience is not unusual!

Not much to say than, it obviously worked. I would have considered installing, heating it and bending it over but it would need to be bent back into position after the clearance bend.

Or grind it!

Ok so im not alone experiance this, i just thought it was unusual to have to grind so much everywhere in a 440 block making it a 493 by using 4,150 crank and Chrysler rods, actually these are eagle stroker rods but that didnt do much, i has to do the grinding everywhere anyway. But the job is done and it be a really nice problem free engine😊

Yes it works and have do so for about 2000miles now, i was worried first when i have to grind so much in the pick up tube but it was pretty thick walls, about 0,118" and i have taken away maybe 0,078 material so i have about 0,0393 material in that area left so its good, theres no stress in that area, vibrations but the material seems to be pretty ductile, anyhow its working😊👍

Really surprised at how much you ground. I test fitted a 4.15 crank with stock Hemi rods and they only hit a tad past tdc, good every where else. Hemi block I might add

FWIW, my pickup tube broke off right at the block. No grinding on pickup but was slightly bent for clearance. I wouldn't be sleeping good with one ground down like your picture.

Looks like a lot of grinding. I too would be a bit concerned about the integrity of the pick-up.

I used 0.030" for clearance.

I agree with BSB67, would not want to grind for clearance on an engine of mine. I had the same issue when I built my 499 stroker on a B block. Solution was to heat one side of the pickup tube and squeeze it just enough to provide the necessary clearance. See photos for results.

How in whole earth do a pick up tube with .118" thick walls be broken of by itself without hitting it or something like that, even if you hit it by drive in to something so the oil pan bend up its a pretty thick wall pipe. I have grind it down for clearance but still have .0393" left in that area, i have also bend it for right clearance to bottom of the pan, i have drive it pretty hard for about 2000 miles now and still is the oil preassure good👍. Can a 0.118" thick wall pipe be broken of only by driven it like yours we are all except salvation if you dont drive external oiling.

0,030" clearance would concern me more than the pickup pipe, pretty close in case of a bearing failure. I have 0,080" everywhere.

Looks like a nice work👍, but do not the heat up of the pipe like that harden the material even more and make it more prone to cracking, the material in the pipe is from beginning pretty ductile.

Each thread on the pickup tube is a stress riser.

The pickup tube hangs down in the pan unsupported. Vibration/harmonics take their toll. If it does break, it's most likely to break at the threads.

Internal pickups are great, but this is just an inherent weak point we have to deal with.

When I did my 572 I got rid of the internal pickup after blacksmithing it/seeing that it only engaged about 2 threads, and not being satisfied with that.
Even though I didn't use it, it was worth the effort just to see what it looked like assembled.

I do use an internal pickup on my 451 + most everything else possible, so i have nothing against them...they're usually fine.

My Hemi tube even broke after about 10 years with stock stroke.

Its fatigue of the material and all oil pickup failure i have read about are broken or cracked at the edge of the oil boss where it be a stresspoint where the thread closest to the boss works like an indication of fracture, normal with this thick walls it must be over a long time of vibrations etc. Before it fails, same with everything in the engine the material fatigue over time

All the broken off oil pick ups I've seen on here have been after market ones with welded on stubs, no stock OEM broken ones off
I've seen comments about some of the after market pickup having non NPT threads on their welded on ends which makes me wonder if the installers are screwing them in all the way and bottoming them out putting stress on those threads?

Can it be so that the welding harden the material and make it more prone to broken off? I have a aftermarket stock style one and i experience the material a bit ductile when i do the grinding, its not give the feeling to be broken eaisely. And if its not NPT threads and be bottomed out its for sure be stress on the threads if you have to contine rotate it a bit after it bottoms out for coming in the right spot with it. Mine has NPT threads and i use blue threadlock and not thread it down hard at all.