I thought I would hit you Handling Tech guys up for some help. I have been having issues trying to align my 1970 Challenger. Originally a power steering 318 car. At some point years ago, I swapped to a manual box and the longer stock steering column. Then I purchased a quick ratio box (used, cant remember which brand, flaming river maybe? Been to many years ago). I also swapped pitman arms at some point years ago. Don't remember which one I have now, but it was a stock replacement from O'reilly I believe. I also added an aftermarket steering column to gearbox coupler. I have fully adjustable SPC upper control arms to boot. I'm doing my own alignment but man, I'm having issues. Starting all over from scratch with suspension height etc.... I'm wondering if the pitman arm might be incorrect for my suspension? I'm about tired of wiping up the garage floor with the shirt on my back! Ackerman angle seems to be off. Also, I can't seem to center the steering wheel (stock wheel) itself. If I turn the steering wheel lock to lock and go back to center, its not even close to being centered. I have my own turntables and alignment tools. I can't remember, but anyone know if the steering wheel has a master spline? How about the steering box and steering column splines? Do they have a master spline? I honestly cant remember. Worst case I take it back apart and look at all the splines. I seem to possibly have multiple issues and there is a mix of aftermarket parts (steering box, upper control arms, steering coupler, and maybe pitman arm) The back of the car has a ladder bar/coil over setup with 30" tires all tucked up nicely into the stock wheel wells. Car hooks hard. Just not driving straight. I haven't even checked bump steer, since I'm not at that point yet

Not sure about your centering issues, but you don’t mention installing the longer Idler arm....if you don’t do that y our Ackerman angles will never be right. I noticed a big difference in my 70 Cuda with and without the longer idler after installing the fast ratio pitman.

isn't the longer idler arm a stock C-body piece ?
for some reason, i remember that from somewhere............

The stock steering wheel “crush can”, bottom of column slip joint, and the pitman all have master splines.

Not sure what aftermarket coupler you are running. Not sure if they have a master spline.

There’s nothing you did that should change Ackerman if you are running the stock length pitman and idler. Are you getting that measurement from your turn plates by reading the difference Left to Right of you front wheels by turning one wheel a spec amount. Does the repair manual give a spec for that?

So is there not enough adjustment in the tie rod sleeves to get the steering wheel to centered?

I took some measurements today. Both the pitman arm and the drag link arm are the same length 5 1/4" center to center. Header clearance would never allow me to install the longer quick ratio arms. I have a 440 with B1/BS heads and custom headers. However, the suspension height was too tall, which could be a lot of the issues, so I lowered it back to factory specs. Took the shocks off (Strange double adjustables) to get them out of the equation.
I believe the steering box is a flaming river box. I get 3.5 turns lock to lock. However, the steering wheel itself is not close to being centered. May be the coupler, haven't got that far yet. Going to restart alignment next and see where I'm at.
Thanks for the suggestions.

The pitman and idler arms should match in length.
The center link not drag link should be an equal distance away from the radiator core support.

I agree that idler technically is supposed match ctr to ctr the pitman arm, that being said, Ackerman is a way over rated and subjective goal anyway, and IMO, not the problem the OP needs to focus on.

Pitman and IDLER arms, yes they are the same length, 5.25" center to center. Thanks

moparx -- yes, the longer idler arm is simply a C-body (~1970 Fury etc) idler arm. It always has been, always will be. No one ever "invented" or "created" a longer idler arm to match the longer T/A Fast Ratio Pitman arm. It was an oversight by Chrysler to not install it with the T/A Fast Ratio power steering option.... shame-on MaMopar for this matter.

I stumbled upon that fact ln 2018 when I parted out a 1970 Polara. The idler looked longer so I compared it to a stock 68-70 B body arm.
S-C-O-R-E !

so did you center the steering box first ? never mind steering wheel yet.. then install [pitman arm] it should be in line with frame rail when centered. add idler arm and center link with tie rod sleeves. you should start with getting pit to idler square. ackermann is built in to the spindles or mis alignment in the links... then you can line the steering wheel [some after market parts may not have the same clocking spline in them ie; steering box shaft or pit-arm]]

I believe the cause of the inconsistent ackerman angles issue has been identified. The tie rod end has been rubbing one of the header pipes during right turns. Fortunately, it's a slip tube, so much less labor intensive to remove. Simple fix. Hopefully that and the corrected ride height will be the end of the issues.

Here is where I am at. 70 Challenger stock front end with Spc adjustable upper control arms. Drum brake car with Wilwood front brake conversion kit that retains the stock drum brake steering knuckle etc. FLAMING River Fast ratio manual box, but stock length pitman arm. Car used to be a power steering car. Idler and pitman arms are the stock length and are the same..
Car is set at stock ride height. Took the shocks off to assist with alignment.
Centered the steering wheel travel in the middle. Its 3.3/4 turns lock to lock
Set the Caster at +3.4* both sides
CAMBER Close to 0. About .1 to .2 degrees positive
Set the toe at ZERO at static height
As I Jack up (rebound) the car in 1" increments
The wheels toe out. The higher the car, the toe out increases.
At 3" raised toe out is 11/16".
I did measure the outer tie rods to the ground. There is a 1/8" difference between drivers side and pass side..
Options?????? Not sure what my options are to correct the bump steering? Book mentions bending the steering knuckles up and even. I thought I might start out with less caster, just to see how that measures out..
Thanks.

Are the tires touching the ground and scrubbing when you raise the car to check bump steer? I would think this would load the suspension and give you false readings.

as you raise the car, the tie rod sets get shorter . [ angles] this pulls the tires inward at the rear / on rear steer. raise the tie rod mount point [outer ] and you will slow this down. spindle rotated /will raise or lower mounting point some too.