Anyone have a part number and seller to a new 60ish amp round back single groove AND double spade alternator? I'm looking for a replacement and the ones that show up are all square backs. I've found the round backs with some '69 cars but they're all single spade.

I found the PowerMaster 7018. It's a 95amp. Any concerns for stock wiring?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Powermaster-7018-Retro-Alternator-95-Amps-V-belt-12V-Chrysler,335545.html

I have several 1970-71 toys running the PowerMaster 7018 on the stock wiring/stock amp meter ZERO issues, Zero failures, the oldest 7018 unit I have in use is approximately 16 yrs old...

Mike

Just put in my order. Thanks!

How did it go? Looks like they no longer make the 75 Amp versions which I run. Just curious in case I need to order....

It went well. Installed and looks like an original. I spoke with one of their tech people and I was told the casting is all new too. The back bearing looks like an original style too. I painted the front pulley black, installed my red tag label, and black plastic hot wire protector and it's back to looking very close to factory. None of the scary wire melting problems I was concerned about. I don't see any significant difference over the prior alt I had that was rated at 65amps though so I predict you won't see much either if you already have a 75. I guess the car just pulls what it needs.

Got a pic of the install?

My concern with the OE design is, if something were to occur with the battery and all 95 amps head through the bulkhead connector to the ammeter, I can't imagine things would end well. Unless I'm mistaken on how the OE meter would respond.

If you look at the stock ammeter in a '68-'70 Charger, high scale is 40 amperes. So if you ran 95 amps through it, the needle would be pegged to the right. Fortunately ammeters are pretty rugged and I doubt if the gauge would be damaged but the stock wiring harness at 95 amps? That probably won't turn out well.

Wouldn't the fusible link prevent that? or is that in line with the battery?

One of the things the tech told me was the alternator doesn't put out the full amperage at low idle. That occurs at max rpm. I'm not sure how that would play out with a bad component type situation, but I can say from my own use of the alt I don't see a difference with things like the brightness of my rally gauges at idle.

Looks good, thx for the pics

Glad to help!

The wire/insulation near the alternator battery terminal looks like it might benefit from a replacement/retape, up to the connector. Never know when you might be wrenching in the area.

Good point. I may give some of that liquid insulation I've seen you can paint on from Home Depot a shot.