If it were me I would use a mopar t stat.

Ok. MAYBE found it.

I pulled the second thermostat in 8 weeks....
To test it on the stove. .
I didnt believe it was that, because , seriously, 2 bad brand new thermostats in a row?? The more expensive one? Junk from the git go? But. It went up to temp, opened up and Stuck open. Froze in the open position. Removing it from the hot water, it refused to close back down. I had to force it to close l0ng after it cooled. So. I gotta assume a problem with the thermostat. This time I will but the gasket for it. In case there is any kind of air leak around the housing. And seal it up better on install.

Does everyone agree .. this could be what's wrong.? .

Bonefishmastr. When lm done putting in the new thermostat and using a gasket.. l am going to jack up the front to bleed it out. Maybe if l do all this stuff 100% on point . I can come away running like a champ.

Is there anything that can destroy thermostats? Just curious.

Ok. Well. New thermostat new gasket. Not fixed.

Sigh.....

I am getting steam and coolant from way down under the block near the drivers side fire wall. It has to be leaking and have a breach in the coolant system/ up -down /in this location.
It is Under the booom and near the drivers side fire wall. What connects to the coolant system here? Heater core? A simple hose fitting? I need to jack this car up high and look at where it's coming out from. Simple ad that.

Ok. Well. New thermostat new gasket. Not fixed.

Sigh.....

I am getting steam and coolant from way down under the block near the drivers side fire wall. It has to be leaking and have a breach in the coolant system/ up -down /in this location.
It is Under the booom and near the drivers side fire wall. What connects to the coolant system here? Heater core? A simple hose fitting? I need to jack this car up high and look at where it's coming out from. Simple ad that.

The heater core is connected at the firewall at the back of the engine.

Have you used a pressure tester on the cooling system yet?

If there's a leak back there the tester should help you locate it.

If there's a leak it will push out coolant when hot and suck in air when it cools off.
The result is the overflow bottle will never work if there's a leak.

You need to figure out where the leak is.

That's what the pressure tester is for.
If it's pushing coolant out a exterior leak (freeze plug,external gasket leak, etc) you will see coolant drip.
It won't help find it if it's internal like a head gasket leaking into a cylinder.

The over flow cap itself is leaking a little as it comes up to.pressure. the leak is running down the line that goes towards the firewall and dripping on the exhaust manifold. This could honestly be as simple as a Failing Cap. I am running to get a brand new one. I have not pressure tested yet only because my gut believes l have full compression and am chading a simple leak in the system. Process of illumination however if this doesn't cure my ills l will have to go get the test kit next. No options left after this.

Thank you for this explanation. Ok. So. The cap on the overflow is leaking and running down that line that goes to the back of the firewall. Then dripping onto the manifold and steaming off if that. There is no radiator cap. Only this cap iff the over dlow where the fluid is added. Different system than lve ever has before. But. Feom everything lm reading it sounds like this cap cant leak. It must seal. And then it will allow the system to operate correctly. Is this true