If you plan to use the late model P/S pump idler (on cars with electric power steering) on an earlier engine (non-VVT), be warned - the bracket is cast of the lowest quality aluminum which doesn't want to weld for @%!T. Think welding the most crappy 50's aluminum casting that's been in oil forever, and it's about that bad. And this was new out of the box, maybe it's made of pot metal....

So...I've read most of these 10 pages and I feel I'm suffering from information overload, LOL. I am obviously a Gen III newbe...my question, simply stated would be if I was going to a salvage yard looking for base parts to build a street strip Gen III what would be the desired parts to put on my shopping list, IE, desired years, configuration, short blocks, intakes, heads, etc.? Hope this isn't oversimplifying my question, thanks in advance.

hard to beat an eagle 5.7 from a truck, its got the best intake, almost the best heads, decent compression, the pistons are stronger than the earlier one, rods are slightly better, if you don't like VVT (I like it) then it is easy to lock out, if you like MDS (I like it) get one from a 1500 if you dont get one from a 2500 3500 or just leave the solenoids in and don't worry about it. The 6.4 apache cam is a real nice, easy upgrade. Short of coughing up the big bucks for a 6.4 apache or 6.4 BGE and upgradeing the cam with the apache, this is about the easiest cheapest route to big power.

Good info, thanks, any particular year to stay away from or are any years more desirable than others?

some of the 09-14a have a high mileage lifter issue.
Some timing chain issue, not sure which year.

I just picked up Larry Sheppard's "New Hemi Engines" book from Barnes and Noble. For $20, it's a pretty good read on some of the basics of the G3s, all in one place. My only gripes are he is pretty vague on some topics, touches only lightly on the BGE, and despite it being labeled "how to build max performance", there is very little building tips inside.

1st, I know this is an old thread but I just re-read all 10 pages and didn't see my questions asked or answered.
03 ram 5.7 with 4 cooked rod bearings, suspect a failed oil change to be at fault. I have an extremely low mileage 06 jeep long block to swap in the truck after an .030 overbore ( due to water sitting in the bores and pitting the cyl walls). I'm wanting to know if the 06 MDS cam will work fine in my 03 non MDS build. I already plugged the MDS with billit plugs and the truck was NON-MDS to begin with. I guess my question is, is the cam the same ? The 03 cam looks like it got hot with the rest of the 03 engine. I'm using all the accessories from the truck, just basically replacing the engine with the rebuilt 06 long block minus the MDS.

2nd. Should I swap to the 6.1 valve springs and pushrods while the engine is apart. Short block is assembled, putting the rest together today if possible.

PS. The intended use of this will be a daily driven 2500 4x4 with 4.10 gears, and pulling a boat or camper or race car around.

Thanks in advance.

#1 The cam is not the same, but it's fine to use.
#2 while it's apart might as well upgrade to the 6.1 stuff.

Thanks for the response. What are your thoughts about using an 06 6.1 cam while I'm at it ? My dealership can get me the cam and springs overnight for around 550 bucks, haven't checked on the pushrods yet.

And if I do the cam, will it need a tune ? Just looking for torque, pulling, mileage.

Other guys here will know better than me, but $ 550 sounds very high for the 6.1 cam and springs.

I was quoted $68 for a 6.4 cam and $300 for a 5.7 cam. Didn't price the springs. A full set of lifters for my 2012 Ram was a little over $500.

I'm sorely tempted to do one before I retire, and likely retire the car. I'd freshen the 360 and sell it to free up some cash. My "vision" is a standard bore 5.7 with H-beam rods and a forged piston shooting for 10.5-11.0:1 compression. Basically stock heads, and a bigger cam that will still play nice with the stock rockers. I'd go the carb route, with something like an 850-950 Holley. I would obviously like to stick with my 904, and the 5.13's I'm currently running.
I currently run a motor plate and electric water pump. I see headers and ignition as big hurdles in a 69 Dart with a stock cross member. What else? As it stands, I don't see this being a tremendous deal, or am I dreaming in technicolor?

It's not that big of a deal, Headers Call TTI they make em, Ignition , MSD Hemi-6 is the box you want.
aeicnc.com is a good place for motor plate,

Stock bore and stroke 5.7 10-12 to 1 compression , Comp cams 273 Arrow/prefix single plane intake will get you about 500Hp with some work to the 03-08 heads , If you go with the 09+ 5.7 eagle heads 500Hp is easier.
Manley has a good stock bore piston so does DSS, 6.1 cranks are getting harder to find just keep that in mind. Eagle and Scat both have decent H- beam rods for under 500

There is user here that sells the Prefix line of products, search around the G3 section and you'll find hemi

if this is a new motor build? Pack the oil pump with assembly grease or petroleum jelly, you will thank me later!!

I have a problem that I'm sure others have experienced. At the last oil change by the local quickie oil change, the mechanic? broke the handle of the dip stick in my 300C. I think this is a design flaw since the metal in the dipstick is not extended all the way up into the handle. The mechanic was not able to get the stick out of the tube He tried drilling a small hole in the plastic left on top of the stick, inserting a small screw to pull it out with pliers but this did not work. The plastic left in the tube seems to be stuck to the tube. I will soon be 83 yrs old with some rather severe physical limitations and not able to do much anymore. The car which is my wife's car will soon be due for another oil change and I don't think I want this same guy messing with it. I am sure there is a bracket welded onto the tube and bolted to the engine block but there is no room to get my hand down between the engine and the inner fender liner. Can it be accessed from under the car if it is on a lift? Anyone else experienced this and any ideas without having to go to dealer who is not convienentley (sp) located?

If the screw is still in the handle use a heat gun to heat up the dip stick tube under the handle. This will release the orings on the handle and it should slide out.

Milodon pan, TTI Mounts, TTI headers, factory suspension and steering box - car is a 67 Belvedere II.

Very smooth install however full lock causes the drag link to interfere and scrape the back of the pan well.

This could result in the pan cracking after time.

Simple solution is to split a couple of feet of 3/4 ID hose and wrap the drag link with it.

More professional fix is to weld a couple of 3/16 turn stops on the lower control arms.

Maybe you could slot the motor mount holes a smidge

Good thought!

All, I don't know if this information has been provided quite yet but I wanted to let everyone know. I just got a camshaft quoted from Comp Cams and LSM. For a solid roller VVT from LSM, it would be $1200. Comp cams doesn't have any VVT cores but for a solid roller non VVT cam the cost was about $1100. Both of these cams were going to be high rpm big duration camshafts for my engine build. Just an fyi for anyone interested.