Okay, then you need to multiply the tappet lift by the rocker ratio since the valve lift is greater than the tappet lift. The Comp chart gives you tappet lift.

Yes, .141@106*x1.6=225.6, How do I use that number?

you don't use any lift numbers except for the lobe lift when doing rocker arm ratio verification, IE .420 lobe lift X 1.5 ratio =.630 minus the lash of .018 =.612 net lift at the valve at max lift. Same procedure on 1.6 ratio=.420X1.6=.672- lash. minus .018 lash =.654 net valve lift at the retainers
Your results may and probably will vary with the race valve springs in place with less than the best pushrods
In your example of having .141 lobe lift at 106 degrees might mean you have calculated .2256 inch valve lift at 106 degrees, maybe not

Yes, my lobe lift is .403x1.6=.6448-.018=.6268, I'm totally new to Andy's way of figuring this with the lobe lift at 106* and piston TDC. Ok, so do i minus the .2256 from the .368 valve drop number giving .1424? I'm confused.

Roller camshafts can’t really be compared to a flat tappet when it comes to v/p clearance. I’ve always had better luck with roller cams in that category. I’m guessing since the valves open and close faster.
It seems to me it’s time for you to do a cylinder head swap instead of a cam change. 👍

Greg, i'm using Harland Sharp rockers with Manton 3/8 .120 wall pushrods currently, but with have to purchase new PR for a roller. Manton tells me every push rod flexes no matter how big, so you just put the biggest in that will fit IMO. New heads are out of the question, i'm probably already in the 9's with this combo(went 10.06@134 with 1100 DOM) and 9's gets me kicked off track. I'm just wanting to better match parts for this combo and i think the cam up grade will do. Heck, another larger SFT might be the ticket and money left in the pocket. The Hughes SFT 304-276@50 on a 108 with a 1.6 rocker would put it at about .675 lift. I'm sure it would take alot of spring because it's very aggressive at 196*@.200 lift. Nothing set in stone here just yet.

I have seen guys get lost doing math, then damage parts.

Cab’s way is what I have been using for years. Has never failed me or anyone else I know that has used this procedure.

I use the actual pushrod and spring setup since that’s the best way to take in to account for deflection.

You are not anywhere near max lift so you don’t have to worry about coil bind. Just crank the adjuster slowly until you feel the valve touch the piston - read the number on your dial indicator. That’s your real P to V clearance after you add your running lash number.

Done.

Maybe this will help: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/predict-piston-to-valve-clearance-before-ordering-a-cam/