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Re: Frame swap question [Re: poorboy] #2827642
10/01/20 10:47 PM
10/01/20 10:47 PM
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JWK57D100 Offline OP
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JWK57D100  Offline OP
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Gene,
I want to stay with a wood bed in the truck even though I will drop a few inches from the swap. The tank on the truck is cracked but I am going to use it to see if I can fab a gas tube to use the original gas cap on the cab and if i can I'll just get a new dakota tank. The dakota I got has the 8 foot bed too so I will have to play around with the bed mounts but I think once I get the frame stripped and start mocking up the new body and cab it will help. I think I was trying to put the cart before the horse and if I need to remove those front box mounts or reposition them I will be able to get a better idea once I set the cab on it. I plan to use the 8 1/4 rear end that came in the dakota so I will have to workout fitting the tires in the wheel wells too. This just gets better and better!


1957 D100
Progress [Re: JWK57D100] #2832981
10/15/20 11:33 AM
10/15/20 11:33 AM
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I have the frame stripped down to where I can start planning to shorten it. From what measurement I have taken so far I am going to shorten the frame where the front box mounts are located. The cab opening from the frame won't clear the old cab mounts but I still have a bit more measuring to do to see if I can just cut the old cab mounts off and use the box mounts where they are. I wish the next few weeks were as fun and quick as the last week of just stripping the truck down but I know that wont be the case. I will keep posting pictures as the build goes on.

Build 1.jpg
Last edited by JWK57D100; 10/15/20 11:34 AM.

1957 D100
Re: Progress [Re: JWK57D100] #2833152
10/15/20 08:42 PM
10/15/20 08:42 PM
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Freeport IL USA
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Usually, between the front fuel tank bracket (the high bolt on one) and the front bed mount (just in front of where your rear jackstands are) is about the best place to shorten one. You can take as much as 10" out of that area and still use the front bed mount and the Dakota tank. If you use a Dakota tank, you will need to notch the back of the cab to clear the front of the tank (4" above the floor and from the center of the cab to just outside the frame rail, about 6" into the cab). Most of the 50s trucks had a fuel filler hose that went through the cab floor at that point, so you would have to patch that hole anyway. If I could get my pictures off my old camera, I could show you a picture of the cut out and the floor patches. The biggest Issue I see with using the original gas fill hole in the cab is getting the Dakota fill hose to it and still have enough drop to fill the tank. The front bed mount cross member will be what causes the biggest issue..

Most often I've discovered that you can keep and use the back 1/2 (the front bed mount) of the cab/bed mount bracket. Usually the cab mount part is too high, too far back, and not in a good location for a rear cab mount on old cabs. I usually make a rear cab mount bracket (in the past I've used a piece of 3" wide channel, or a 2" wide piece of angle iron that got welded to the frame). Match up the new bracket with where the original rear cab on the cab your using are located.That way, unless I'm replacing the entire cab floor, I can re-use the original rear cab mount floor bracing and just update the actual rubber cab mount.

For about $100, you can buy a set of Energy Suspension replacement cab mounts for a Dakota. With the kit, you get 4 rubber bushings with a steel insert that goes between the frame brackets and the body with 4 rubber pieces that go under the frame brackets. You also get a pair of radiator support bushings with the steel inserts and a pair of the rubber bottom bushings. You need to supply the bolts and washers, but the bushing kit is pretty cost effective. You really need to look for the 6 mount rubber kit, they really want to sell you the $250 all inclusive kit. Gene

Re: Progress [Re: poorboy] #2833191
10/15/20 10:03 PM
10/15/20 10:03 PM
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JWK57D100 Offline OP
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Gene,
I will look into cab mounts and bushings for sure, thanks. I have to take 16 inches out to get the right WB for the wheels to line up right under the fenders so I'm pretty sure I am going to have to make my cut on each side of the cab/box mount or lose the fuel tank bracket. If I take 16 inches from the middle of the bolt on bracket and the cab/box mount they will be touching each other if I could even get it to fit with them both. I was measuring everything today and the front box mount is only about a 1/2 inch off. If I lose the gas tank bracket that is what I will do and just have to use the 57 gas tank, which seems a little easier in my head but this is the first time I have done this so chime in if I'm mistaken. I double checked the measurements from the front of the frame to the center of each wheel to make sure the 16 inches was the right length, used the measurements of the 57 cab, fenders and bed to make sure it would all fit correctly. I know the important part is the cross measurements before and after I shorten the frame but I just wanted to double check everything before I started cutting.


1957 D100
Re: Progress [Re: JWK57D100] #2833708
10/17/20 12:08 AM
10/17/20 12:08 AM
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If your going to go EFI, the Dakota tank with the fuel pump inside is a very good option, but if your going to do a carb, I wouldn't worry about using the Dakota tank.
As far as the frame length, do you still have the 57's original frame around? By far the easiest way to get the correct wheel base is to maintain the 57's wheel base numbers. The biggest issue with using the cab , front clip and box is its way too easy to be off an inch or two. Things like how much space is between the cab and the box and exactly how the wheels it in the wheel opening can get you off a couple inches without even catching it until your assembling parts. Gene

Re: Progress [Re: poorboy] #2834550
10/19/20 11:11 AM
10/19/20 11:11 AM
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Gene,
Yeah, I used the 57 to get the right wheel base measurements and figure out how much I need to cut from the Dakota. I was using the cab measurements t make sure everything else would fit close to how I expect and give me an idea of the brackets I need to make or move. The main reason I started down that rabbit hole is the 57 frame from the center of the front wheel to the front of the frame was about 7 inches longer and that got me wondering if the front grill and everything would fit the right way.

I was leaning towards a gen III hemi but I think I am going to stick with building a carbureted 360 and maybe stroking it. Most of the ones I can find are 2500-3K with 100k miles on them and that's just the engine. By the time I get a transmission and rebuild the 5.7 it would only be about 1000 to build a fresh 360 that I would put the first mile on, technically. That's probably something I should have decided before I started but I wasn't even sure the 5.7 was possible as easy as it is now until recently.

Last edited by JWK57D100; 10/19/20 11:12 AM.

1957 D100
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