LSP, I didn't reply to your first post. Felt it was out of line. Persistent ain't ya? Greg asked a question about piston recommendations. I gave him my opinion. As for slipper design. I will not divulge that info. Just for your info I retired from United Engine & Machine in 04', who is KB pistons and Icon. I helped build the machines that machine the slippers. Not of my design though, that was before my time. So if you're looking for a fight go somewhere else cause this is all the info you deserve from me.

I think most companies will do a nice piston, I will be getting a set of BME's for my next project. The CP and Diamond pistons I've seen look really nice and well finished as well.

As has been mentioned, a good relationship is particularly important as well.

You said "best in the business" slipper piston, all I asked was a simple and easy show me, I never asked for or need any technical or design data from you.

Regardless of what Indy, World, etc. tell you, aluminum blocks make in the neighborhood of 2% less power, that can be lessened somewhat with a thinner more conforming ring pack. T/S #CS9934500 is a .9mm,.9mm,3.0mm ring set, the top ring is CrN coated, it'll last a very long time. Put the top ring .150" down on the piston, .200" 2nd land (no accumulator groove), and .100" 3rd land. Ask for .003" top ring back clearance, and add 16 .040" vertical gas ports .004" into the top ring groove back wall. Give your cylinder bore length to the piston company, and tell them that you DO NOT want the piston skirt hanging out of the bottom of your bore at BDC no more than .250". Put at least four .125" split oil drain backs at the top of both skirts, ask to have the piston COM balanced. There's only two skirt coatings worth considering, Calico's CT-3 or Line2Line's, if you choose Line2Line call Brian at Line2Line in SC, he'll get it right. Gap the top ring .020", 2nd ring .040", top oil rail .040, bottom oil rail as little as .012" if possible, if not that's fine. You've got a tall/heavy piston and a lot of piston speed going, so I'd say a .200" wall pin is minimum, I'd prefer .225" or more, C-350 is the best pin material, DLC coated if possible.

^ No accumulator groove because of 1st/2nd ring proximity or some other reason?

Some CP stuff, just for fluff

My gen III project is using Carillo Bullet series pistons. They were about $750 and have some great features, and of course are 2618 material.

Weakens the 2nd land, which needs to support the top ring that has about 1400 psi above it in this case.

Thank you.

Every piston ive ever ordered looks nicer than the previous. Used Ross fo a long time. Recently Mahle. Was turned on to Mahle by the engine builder at Realtime racing. They are Acura’s roadcar race team. 9000+ rpm engines. Ive seen pistons out of engines that dropped valves at High rpm. Pistons are junk, but stay together. Very strong and stable materials with tight expansion rates. Skirt designs that make sense. Have there own coating.
I was planning on using these in my early hemi build. My machine shop suggested racetec. I mistakenly let him order them. I guess between knowing my previous builds and what is planned for this new build, that I would get something pretty nice. I don’t know whose fault (other than mine) it was, but the first set of 10 came in with the wrong bore size. After several months ( covid) I got the correct bore size. These things are heavy. Skirt supports look like a design from the ‘50s. Rod relief/ lightening is coarse with burrs still on the edges.
Really disappointed in myself for not ordering the Mahles. Im sure racetec is capable of making a nice product, but pistons shouldn’t leave the building with burrs on them.
My point is not to assume anybody knows what you want. Be involved in your request, and use companies that you know will give you what you request.

JE fan here... there quality is excellent, je is easy to deal with... these pistons had every option je offers and a couple they dont.,they were built to my chamber mold the price was $1400 for a set of eight

Wow. Lots to consider. Tommorow AM i will pull the piston in the bad hole so i know what i am working with. Not sure what i can budget for this deal but sure would like to go with the latest and greatest if i go with new pistons in a aluminum block. Thanks all for the input!

LSP, I have delt with many piston manufacturers just like others on this post. I can tell you this ICON did work with me on my Small Block build and built a very nice piston. Please look close to these photos. Everything you ar talking about.

Not that ICON is the only company that bult me nice stuff, here are BME examples:

#1 BME Predator

#2 BME Nitrous Small Mopar

Tony,
I'm glad you are back on here, Ive been down to Joey Groose quit a few times in the last couple months and asked about you. I also agree that JE make real nice stuff as well.

couple more icon pistons

Thanks for all the pics guys