You can not over look the basics. It is a shame that your first shop who replaced your distributor is not so smart. Like I said plugs, wires, and sync signal need to be verified as good before wasting another dime.

I appreciate this advice. It is spot on. I checked the connections to every part of the system that I could think of. Everything is solid. New distributor and coil, one new wire. If setting the sync signal doesn't clear it up, then I will pull the injectors and reverse flush them into a white rag, using a 12 volt DC power source, per your recommendation.

None of these issues appeared until shortly after this trans rebuild. I do not think that the trans itself has caused any of this, but perhaps something happened during the install that contributed. I am not a big believer in coincidence, but perhaps that's what I'm facing here.

If a particular trans does not have a functioning lockup converter, you will be amazed how much driveability issues will pop up once lockup is introduced.

The only thing I have seen after a trans has been removed and reinstalled from a properly functioning vehicle that causes shudder is a damaged or dislocated/cocked distributor cap. Some of the earlier trucks had the cap real close to the firewall. Lowering the engine knocked the cap lose.

By lockup converter do you mean the locking torque converter, Transman? This one is a Precision of New Hampton, I hope it's not malfunctioning. I spent the extra money for it because of their reputation.

I know that my distributor is really close to the firewall. I've always dreaded having to do that repair because of how tight it is back there. This is a 1994 and that firewall is really close to the back of the engine. It's possible that it got bumped when they were installing the new trans. Brand new distributor though, and it's running better, just not 100 percent. The sync adjustment is getting done on monday. The distributor getting harmed during install makes alot of sense, actually.

This issue started when I was rolling from a stop and going into first, a week or so after the trans was swapped. This is all new to the truck, I've never had timing or firing issues before. I don't know if all of this points the finger to anything specific. The trans fluid is totally bright red and clean. I'd been stressing that maybe I'd accidentally gotten the thrust washers in the OD unit in upside down and it was messing up. If I'd gotten them flipped would they have burned up already? I've done a few hours of OD driving already on this build, in the Florida heat.

Update: Two mechanics are now unable to perform the sync signal adjustment, an appointment has been made with a third. The second mechanic referred me to the third, saying that he would have the correct OBD1 attachments to perform the adjustment.

The second mechanic confirmed that my fuel adjustment was "out of range", and that my timing was on 10. Does this mean anything to you, Nitrous?

Not sure what they were doing. If he was able to see it out of range I would think he could of turned the distributor to get it in range. There is a way to do it with an OHM meter.

I have no idea. At this point I'm just praying that someone tunes my truck, so I can focus on my hvac school. Thank you for all of your help, you've been a lifesaver, Nitrous. I'll keep you posted with how it goes at the third mechanic.

CHECKING ilSTRIBUTOR POSITION
To verify correct distributor rotational position,
connect the DRB scan tool to the data link connector.

The data link connector is located in the engine com-
partment. Gain access to the SET SYNC screen on

the DRB.
WARNING : WHE N PERFORMIN G TH E FOLLOWIN G
TEST , TH E ENGIN E WIL L B E RUNNING . B E CARE ­
F U L NO T T O STAN D I N LIN E WIT H TH E FA N
BLADE S O R FA N BELT . D O NO T WEA R LOOS E
CLOTHING .
Follow the directions on the DRB screen and start
the engine. With the engine running, the words IN
RANGE should appear on the screen along with 0°.
This indicates correct distributor position.
If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to the
degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not

zero, loosen but do not remove the distributor hold-
down clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor until IN

RANGE appears on the screen. Continue to rotate

80 - 28 IGNITION SYSTEMS Hit

the distributor until achieving as close to 0° as pos-
sible. After adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5

N-m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
The degree scale on the SET SYNC screen of the
DRB is referring to fuel synchronization only. It is
not referring to ignition timing. Because of this,
do not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this
method. Rotating the distributor will have no effect

on ignition timing. All ignition timing values are con-
trolled by the powertrain control module (PCM).

Or read this . Forget page 1 and 2. Page 3 tells you how to set it. I previously said OHM meter but it is a voltmeter.

Properly functioning lockup torque converter means one that not only locks but does not shudder.

Precision does good work, I know the owner, stand up guy.

Nitrous, I specified to the shop that I wanted the Sync signal set, so I hope they do this tomorrow. I will save that bulletin. Thank you so much for sharing all of this information with me. I made sure to ultra specify that I need the sync signal done, so fingers crossed. If they don't get it right, then I'm attempting this.

Transman, thank you! It doesn't shudder at all, only the engine misses and lurches, and it's not even all the time. You aren't the first person who's said good things about Precision, so I took all of that into consideration and spent the extra money for their product. Thank you for your help with my build, the build seems to be smooth as silk, now.

Oh, there is a new rattle at idle. Could this be from the shield between the trans and the engine?

Rattles are a pain. I guess I would look at anything you disturbed doing the trans R & R first. Shield would be a good start.


Also, you asked earlier about putting in thrust bearings in the OD upside down. They generally last less than a couple hundred miles when that’s been done.

Thank you, Transman. I've definitely logged a few hundred miles since the rebuild, so I'll relax there. I suspect it's the shield rattling.

Nitrous, so the new shop called me today and said my truck wouldn't start. They claimed it was happening before they started adjusting my distributor. That's funny, because other than the miss at highway speeds it was running pretty alright. It's never done this to me, and I told them I was uncomfortable with this claim. Service manager got nasty, and I was about to have the truck towed off property. The mechanic who worked on it came out and tried to be concilliatory. Said he thinks it's a "hot soak issue". Should I let these guys take a crack at diagnosing this, or what? I'm lost, and am debating having my insurance company tow my truck off their property tonight, and back to my house.


And when I say wouldn't start, I mean the mechanic confirmed zero spark was happening.

At this time you need to trust someone. This no spark could be part of what has been wrong all along. Possibly the distributor replacement was not needed. At this point it needs to be diagnosed. I would at least allow them to run codes and to give you an estimate. It is always a possibility that the crank sensor was damaged when the transmission was removed and could of been the noise you heard in the bell area, These are guesses on my part. However get some sort of diagnosis.

The mechanic who was being helpful had a conversation with me, late yesterday afternoon. He told me to replace my speed sensor, as it might be shorting out causing the 8v signal from the computer to interfere. He also said that when I came back and picked up my truck it should start up fine, after it cooled down. I picked up my truck, it had a longer than normal crank before start but it cranked. The miss was gone, my fuel mileage is back up, and my power seems to be back. Today the truck cranked up on the first key touch, like normal, every single time.

I'm going to go looking for an inexpensive OBD1 reader so I can pull codes myself, and I'm going to look into having the crank sensor replaced. As of right now the truck is running normally, shifting perfectly, and I know he was able to set the Sync signal so that issue seems to be cleared up. Thank you for your patience with all of this, and your help, Nitrous.

Did they set the sync signal?

They did.

Run it for a while to see what it does. The code reader is a valuable tool to have. The hot soak with the no start makes no sense. All sensors use the same low volt reference signal and yes any of them could short and cause a stall or no start. Generally there are failure codes when this happens. I would not waste my money throwing sensors at it until you get a code reader.

Thank you, Nitrous. I am going to track down a scanner today. Your advice continues to be invaluable.

OBD1 scanners are not inexpensive for Dodges, I'm finding. Nor are the OBD2 scanners that also read OBD1, however I found an article that I'm posting below that may work. Is this method recommended or should I keep hunting for an old scanner and correct attachment?

I found this article which seems to pertain to pulling codes for my 1994 1500 Ram. Codes will be recorded tomorrow, and I will post any that show up here, for analysis by wiser minds than mine. Though the article is wrong about the port, there is an OBD1 port.



However, for vehicles made on or before 1995, there is only one cheap way to get it: You do it yourself!

On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the engine light. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports.

Dodge trucks have a diagnostic trouble code retrieval method, Unlike Gm and Ford trucks the Dodge line of trucks has no data port connector to gather codes from.

Instead Dodge has a ignition cycle activation sequence that anyone can active by turning the ignition key on off in rapid succession five times with the cycle ending in the "on" position.

Once this activation has started the check engine light will start to flash. The first set of check engine light flashes will be the first digit of the two number code. After the check engine light pauses for a short time it will start to blink again starting the second digit identification and completing the code's second number. If additional trouble codes are stored in the computer the first digit will begin to flash, and then the second digit. For example: the check engine light flashes four times, pauses and then flashes three more times the code is 43.

The check engine light will flash one and then two meaning the code gathering is over. The system will only flash 12 if there are no codes stored in the computer’s memory. To clear codes disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds and reconnect.

Below are the OBD DTC's for 1995-previous model year EFI-equipped Dodge vehicles.

11 camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking
12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts
13 map sensor not detecting any change during test
14 map voltage too high or too low
15 vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected
16 knock sensor circuit. open or short detected
17 low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault
21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected
22 coolant sensor voltage low
23 air charge voltage high/low detected
24 throttle position sensor voltage high/low
25 automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected
26 injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached
27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal
31 purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected
32 egr solenoid circuit, open or short detected
33 a/c clutch relay circuit, open or short detected
34 speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected
35 radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected
36 waste-gate solenoid, open or short detected
37 part throttle unlock(PTU) circuit, open or short detected
41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal
42 fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller
43 ignition control circuit not responding
44 battery temperature voltage circuit problem
45 turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects over-boost
46 battery voltage too high
47 battery voltage too low
51 air/fuel at limit
52 logic module fault
53 internal controller failure
54 camshaft reference circuit not detected
55 end of message
61 baro read solenoid, open or short detected
62 emr mileage not stored
63 eprom write denied
64 flex fuel sensor signal out of range
65 manifold tuning valve, open or short detected
66 no ccd messages
76 ballast bypass relay, open or short detected
77 speed control relay, open or short detected
Import Car Code Definition
1 oxygen sensor
2 crank engine sensor
3 air flow sensor
4 barometric pressure sensor
5 throttle positioner sensor
6 motor position sensor
7 engine coolant temperature sensor
8 no.1 cylinder tdc sensor
12 air flow sensor
13 air temperature sensor
14 throttle positioner sensor
15 sc motor position sensor
21 engine coolant temperature sensor
22 crank angle sensor
23 no.1 cylinder tdc sensor
24 vehicle speed sensor
25 barometric pressure sensor
31 knock sensor
32 manifold pressure sensor
36 ignition timing adjustment signal
39 oxygen sensor
41 injector
42 fuel pump
43 egr
44 ignition coil
52 ignition coil
53 ignition coil
55 iac valve position sensor
59 heated oxygen sensor
61 transaxle control unit cable
62 warm up control valve position sensor