Re: pinion seal seepage 83/4 489 case
[Re: TOMRR]
#2827876
10/02/20 01:15 PM
10/02/20 01:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,729
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,729
Rio Linda, CA
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The 489 has a crush sleeve so it's not as easy as just prying out the old seal and replace with new. The FSM has an elaborate procedure but there's an alternative.
Marking the pinion and the nut before removal is the easiest way. Use a center punch and make a dot on the end of the pinion threads and another dot next to it on the nut.
When reassembling, use a torque wrench set at 170 ft. lbs. to tighten the nut, if 170 is reached before the dots line up continue to tighten it until the dots line up; you will have the exact same preload as before you started. (I use some red Loctite as insurance)
If the nut is past the dots when 170 is reached the nut is too tight and the correct preload is lost. You can back the nut off if the dots are close but it's risky. (again, Loctite)
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: pinion seal seepage 83/4 489 case
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#2827880
10/02/20 01:27 PM
10/02/20 01:27 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,310
north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,310
north of coder
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also apply a dab of black RTV on the splines of the pinion where the yoke goes. i have seen minute leaks there as well, making it look like the pinion seal is bad. after you go to all this trouble to change the seal, you don't want to find it leaking again because the lube is running up the pinion splines. 
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Re: pinion seal seepage 83/4 489 case
[Re: moparx]
#2828251
10/03/20 12:09 PM
10/03/20 12:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,269
Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,269
Omaha Ne
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also apply a dab of black RTV on the splines of the pinion where the yoke goes. i have seen minute leaks there as well, making it look like the pinion seal is bad. after you go to all this trouble to change the seal, you don't want to find it leaking again because the lube is running up the pinion splines.  But do a bit more than a "dab" LOL. Make sure the yoke sealing surface is frees of grooves, nicks etc. I also put a thin layer on the outside of the seal, & a bead around the washer hole on the inside. Lastly, make sure the sealant your using is compatible with oils as some aren't
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Re: pinion seal seepage 83/4 489 case
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#2828445
10/03/20 09:46 PM
10/03/20 09:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,908
Nebraska
4406bbl
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,908
Nebraska
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The 489 has a crush sleeve so it's not as easy as just prying out the old seal and replace with new. The FSM has an elaborate procedure but there's an alternative.
Marking the pinion and the nut before removal is the easiest way. Use a center punch and make a dot on the end of the pinion threads and another dot next to it on the nut.
When reassembling, use a torque wrench set at 170 ft. lbs. to tighten the nut, if 170 is reached before the dots line up continue to tighten it until the dots line up; you will have the exact same preload as before you started. (I use some red Loctite as insurance)
If the nut is past the dots when 170 is reached the nut is too tight and the correct preload is lost. You can back the nut off if the dots are close but it's risky. (again, Loctite) If you have to do the second procedure, use locktite and tack weld the nut with a wirefeed.
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Re: pinion seal seepage 83/4 489 case
[Re: TJP]
#2828892
10/05/20 11:57 AM
10/05/20 11:57 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,310
north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,310
north of coder
|
also apply a dab of black RTV on the splines of the pinion where the yoke goes. i have seen minute leaks there as well, making it look like the pinion seal is bad. after you go to all this trouble to change the seal, you don't want to find it leaking again because the lube is running up the pinion splines. But do a bit more than a "dab" LOL. Make sure the yoke sealing surface is frees of grooves, nicks etc. I also put a thin layer on the outside of the seal, & a bead around the washer hole on the inside. Lastly, make sure the sealant your using is compatible with oils as some aren't i guess a "dab" is kind of open to interpretation, as to some, that means 1/2 a tube.  and i completely forgot about checking for a plugged vent. thanks for putting that out there last poster !
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