I have a set of Hedman 78030 B-body headers on my low-deck, and the issues with #6 plug access are well known. I made a hole in my inner fender so at least I can get a socket on it. Since I don't have a thin forearm with two wrist joints, using a wrench from underneath is not practical.

The problem is that the tube for #6 is very close to the spark plug base - and my 13/16" spark plug socket binds on the tube.

I've been googling for a 13/16" thin-wall, but almost all of them are thin-wall impact sockets which end up being the same OD. There are some wheel sockets which might work, but even with the plastic wheel protector sleeve removed, the OD is not really much thinner.

Any recommendations (even $nap-On if necessary)? Thanks.

Not exactly sure of the problem area but having the OD of the socket turned down would be a quick and dirty approach. or possibly even making a "special" socket might be another approach. Can you post a few pic's ??

I just ran into this issue with a new set of wheels and lug nuts. I was using 1/2" drive HF deep socket and had to switch to 3/8" drive HF deep socket and it fit. It may work. Take a set of calipers and measure their sockets.

+1
Tighten a long bolt through the middle of it, mount in in a drill (bench preferably, or grab a helper) and have at it with a angle grinder with the drill set at a very low rpm

It'd be next to impossible to get a pic of that area... maybe through the hole in the fender if I took the wheel off!
But the description should cover it - the OD of the socket is too big and it hits the header tube, preventing it from going on fully and straight...

On FABO someone suggested these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow301155
But $68 for two sockets! Although it looks like it would do the job

I think I'll try a friend with a lathe first

I don't know if it's the same problem I had years ago, but I solved it by using a
box wrench on the plug from below.

See if that's a solution.

Joe

I think I'd massage the tube for a bit more clearance.

This is my thought as well.

If you don't want to pay $68 for two sockets then you don't want to buy a single socket from Snap On either.

I can't really visualize the situation here, but:
Many years back I found a short plug socket that has a wrench hex on it. Has come in handy many times. Has a hollow center.
Another approach is a box wrench with the right bend.
Can you use 5/8-hex spark plugs ?

A smaller diameter spark plug would work - if there is one with the proper reach, seat, and heat range. Will have to look into that, thanks.

I tried clearancing the tube but I'm not going to take the header off to do it. No way to swing a ball-peen or keep the end of a bar where it needs to go while hitting the end.
Believe me, I tried.

For those recommending wrenches, when I said:

I meant that it is so difficult to reach that way that I used a hole saw on the inner fender to make an access. All the solid objects(header, motor plate, K-frame, block, etc.) are a perfect storm of getting in the way.
(Well, it can be done, I did it once, scraped up my arm and took as much time as the other 7 plugs, and decided there had to be a better approach).

Last time I bought a Snap-On socket was in the early 90's. I had a car that the shop manual even warned that a thin wall, deep, 10mm, 12 point socket is required. And they were not kidding. I think it cost me $10, nearly 30 years ago...

I'm going on a cruise with the local car club tomorrow morning, but I'll take a pic if I get a chance.

I have the same or maybe worse issue. I'm using 5/8 plugs, headers are TTI 2" - 2 1/8" step headers (never should have listened to engine builder...) TTI in their infinite wisdom didn't put a dimple in these. My old TTI's were 1 7/8" and naturally these smaller tube headers were dimpled... Go figure...

Oh and the plug boot is smashed into the header too. Takes about 10 minutes to do this to the boot. (fortunately using a straight boot (MSD) and one of those insulating sleeves seems to work but is a major pain to get on...



You CANNOT get a socket or anything on the plug without pulling the header... I'm going to try a thin wall after reading this, fingers crossed. Someday when (if) I have the energy (still messed up from chemo...) to pull the header completely out I'll dimple it.
Doing it is IMPOSSIBLE with it attached.

Here's a pic...

I use a pass through socket and extension, then again I use mine for almost anything lol. Love it. I got craftsman set. pretty cheap. here is a pic of pass through on a plug, you will have extension on for what you want to do. Hope this helps.

Much better photo here:

https://www.amazon.com/Powerhouse-Products-POW301155-SOCKET-SPARK/dp/B002EE7A0S

So a regular 12 pt 13/16th deepwell won't fit?

I bought a cheap socket and ground down the wall thickness on about a third of it allowing about a 1/4 turn, remove reinstall do another 1/4 turn, repeat until finger tight.
the cheap sockets are easier to grind. I actually have different size sockets I've done this to, even to different depths for various projects.yard sales are good places to stock up.

I have a lathe, so I just use that......... but I like your idea for those that don’t have access to one

I have the same issue on #6.A body w/TTi. I ground a made in CHINA socket till it worked. There will soon be a hole in the fender well for access. I feel your pain!

with a little effort, you can enlist a buddy and also do this with a hand drill and a 4 1/2" angle grinder. just be real careful !

What has saved me time and skin off my knuckles is a socket I cut down for just this issue.
Started with a 5/8 spark plug socket with 3/4 hex. Socket is .869 OD and cut it down to .950 OAL. Then opened up the ID on the drive end to .630 to fit over spark plug.

With this socket I can change plugs on my angle plug Eddy heads and Hooker Super Comps (1-7/8 tubes) on a B-Body in 30-45 min every time. Just using open and box end wrenches to grab the hex. Couldn't be any easier for me.