Hi! I wonder if anyone here know what size and threads and material used on the adjustment bolt and swivel to the torsion bars on a Chrysler 300 -64, the adjustment for the torsion bars is located in the middle of the car just about under the seats on Chryslers up to -65(see picture i share from the service manual). I have not been able to find any information or parts to the torsion bar anywhere, no one knows or have the parts for it. I have found everything else to the front suspension but when it comes to this subject its a dead end. I have not start the rebuild on the front suspension yet but when i do and maybe stripped the threads on the adjuster bolt or swivel there is nowhere to find these so i try to figure out if they can be made by myself or if there is some specific material of these bolts and swivels. Someone more than me must have touch these things on a Chrysler before -65.

I would try and clean both bolts real well with brake or carb cleaner and then use a good spray on lube rust penitrator(SP?) like PB Blaster and then go very slowly while making changes in both direction in and out to try 1/2 turn at a time and try to save both parts

my old CRS brain seems to be telling me this is a 1/2-20 UNF thread.
but as Cab said, try to save both pieces if at all possible.
another trick to try after a good cleaning. heat the swivel some [to just about where it "might" be close to changing to a dull red], then take a birthday candle to it, allowing the wax to melt into the swivel.
i do not know the material composition/hardness of the adjuster bolt and swivel, however.

Thank you for your answers guys! I will try to clean it up real well and penetrate with some oil and try to get them out. I need to replace all ball joints, bushings in the front suspension so i have no choise, frustating that everything else on the car can be found but when it comes to torsion bar parts its a total dead end, someone more than me must have rebuild the front suspension on a Mopar from before -65, all other parts for these cars are reproduced so whats the deal with torsion parts?

It is Chrysler, hence the lack of aftermarket parts
Early Dodge and Plymouths are in a similar boat

Big M auto parts in Williams, CA might have the parts as well as Wildcat in Oregon. But, if all goes well you will be able to save them. I have rebuilt one early ('57 Dodge) front end. What I had trouble with was getting the left torsion bar out of the rear socket. It took copious amounts of heat and the bar was pitted with rust. We replaced them with NOS from AMS obsolete (formerly Mitchell).

Back in the 90's I was daily driving a 64 300. I had just parked the car when the adjuster let go. The threads in the swivel tore out. At the time there was a mopar specific junkyard in Tucson that I got one from. Drove it for another 10 years without issue.

2196750 and 259651 are the left and right anchor package part numbers, remember one is RHT the other is LHT

That old way of bar adjustment sure seems simpler and reduces unsprung weight too.
I wonder why they changed??

Joe

They are tough material and will likely be fine. Do not turn that bolt unless the front tires are off the ground. Do not heat them!

Yes clean and lube them. They are a bit tricky to get to so don’t give up too easily. Get a wire brush up in there first, then Brake cleaner, then when dry lube them and let them sit for a day. Before turning them. Jack up the front of the car first.

Do not heat them!

Big M will have plenty of these for sale.

This way is not simpler, more parts and hard to assemble. The new way is much more simple.

Thanks for the part numbers! In the service manual i not be able to find the numbers. I will try to clean them real well and lube them alot, maybe and hopefully i get them off without destroy them.

Thank you everyone for your answers, hopefully i get them off properly and not need to replace them, if i did know what strange the material in the bolt and swivel needs to have than it would be possible to make them by myself, its pretty simple parts but the material maybe needs to be something special.

You can get a PDF copy of the parts manual here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=107

Have you tried the Forward Look websites or groups on Facebook?

Your setup looks identical to what I have on my '60 Dart.

Thank you!

I have looked around pretty much but not be able to find anything. Thanks for the tip, i will check it out

Please tell us more about your 1960 Dart I use to own and raced a 1960 Dodge Phoenix. I can't remember some of the other 1960 Dodge model names now but I don't think I have ever heard of or seen a 1960 Dart
Pictures would be nice

wow, a 1960 dart !
back in my junkyard ownership days [1973-1984] we demo derbied one of those, a two door post model, and it was the factory "pink" color.

My grandparents owned a 1960 Dodge 4 door station wagon with a slant six and torqueflyte that was that factory light pink color
Thanks for the help on the Dart model
My first Mopar car was a 1959 Dodge Coronet I bought in 1964, I don't remember Dodge offering the Dart model in 1959 but I didn't know a lot about cars back then either

i forgot to mention the demo dart was a slant 6 and three on the tree.
it had the same body as your phoenix but different trim.
a couple of good whacks in the derby and it folded up bad. that thing was super rusty.
back to the yard it went to see mr. crusher.

My Phoenix was a two door hardtop, not a sedan
I've seen a 1960 Polara, I think it was a Polara, that had more trim than my car did and it was two door hardtop also. Both of those cars had full frames with removeable bodies like my 1959 Dodge had, I'm almost sure all non compact, full size Mopar cars had frame under them until 1961
I had the Phoenix weighed one time before racing it at a NHRA track, it weighed 4080 lbs. without me in it with no back seat, no radio, no heater and nothing else in the car that wasn't needed to make it run, it had early cheater NHRA stocker motor in that was a little bigger than 383, it had a early welded stroker 413 crank in it that was over 4.150 stroke, I was told it was 454 C.I.
I never verified the stroke or C.I. due to it spinning a rod bearing in my drive way idling the next week after I raced it I never ran that motor again after having the crank fixed