Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#2819827
09/11/20 09:14 PM
09/11/20 09:14 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545 Seattle, WA
375inStroke
OP
Special needs person
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OP
Special needs person
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545
Seattle, WA
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Like I said,try this you've nothing to lose !
I've had quite a few tapered axles that wouldn't come off,old mechanic told me to loosen the nut,jack the back end up with tires on ,run it up to about 25/30 mph,hit the brakes a few times,it always worked.
Tried that about a dozen times, slamming the brakes on as hard and as fast as I could. Nothing.
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2819830
09/11/20 09:19 PM
09/11/20 09:19 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545 Seattle, WA
375inStroke
OP
Special needs person
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OP
Special needs person
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545
Seattle, WA
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Should work. Just make sure the flat end of the piece you welded to the nut can butt to the axle. The washer you could leave out. The stub positively has to hit the axle, that's the key to making the jar effective. I would of tried to find a larger and longer piece. Keep all the weight on the side you are trying to remove. Jack the opposite side wheel off the ground. Bigger the sledge the better. Every wack or two tighten the nut. 10 pound or bigger on the sledge.
Was cut off a piece of rebar I have. I didn't want it too long, my thinking is a longer lever arm times me not hitting it exactly square can't be good on the end of the axle. I squared the end up on my belt sander, and clamped it to the nut when I welded it, so it should butt up to the end of the axle. I was using a 10lb sledge, and snugging up the nut. Wheel on ground, other wheel in air, nothing.
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: Sniper]
#2819831
09/11/20 09:21 PM
09/11/20 09:21 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545 Seattle, WA
375inStroke
OP
Special needs person
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OP
Special needs person
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545
Seattle, WA
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I hear loosening the nut and driving around the block works. That's how I got them loose on my 51, back off a turn or two of the nut, put the pin back in and drive around some corners. This didn't work.
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: Twostick]
#2819835
09/11/20 09:30 PM
09/11/20 09:30 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545 Seattle, WA
375inStroke
OP
Special needs person
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OP
Special needs person
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545
Seattle, WA
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A buddy of mine drove the wheel studs in with a BFH and then turned the swedge down in his lathe on the replacements to the exact size of the holes in the drum to correctly locate it for installation.
Makes future brake jobs a breeze.
Kevin 9/16" hole saw with no center bit. Cut the swedges and the drum slides right off. Doug I don't have confidence I won't mess the hub up doing this on the car. I'd really like to get it on the bench, and on the drill press. Once they are off, I'll try this conversion. Why were they not like this originally? Same with the fronts. http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: Twostick]
#2819954
09/12/20 12:09 PM
09/12/20 12:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,618 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,618
Rio Linda, CA
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A buddy of mine drove the wheel studs in with a BFHKevin Doing this risks enlarging the holes in the hub. Cut the swedges first.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: moparx]
#2820008
09/12/20 03:58 PM
09/12/20 03:58 PM
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,812 South Bend
John Brown
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,812
South Bend
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A swedge cutter is shaped like a piece of tubing that will just barely fit over the threads of the stud and has cutting teeth to cut the swedged area down till it no longer grips the drum (or rotor). When pressing the studs out or back into the hub, be sure to support the hub on the other side so you don't bend it all to héll. A BFH by itself isn't the appropriate tool to be using for this job. Guys used to bring in four wheel drive hubs that were all bent up from removing studs with their Ford tool and wanted to know if I could fix em. Said yeah, fork over a hundred dollar bill and I'll sell you a new one. That was back around 1990, so the price may be different today.
July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: poorboy]
#2820033
09/12/20 06:02 PM
09/12/20 06:02 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153
Mass
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I've ran into a few that just never did come off. I killed a couple good spindles trying different things. These days, if I see one of those rear axles come in, I tell them its time to upgrade the rear end. I'm not messing with them again. Gene Agreed!, I did this on my Daughter's 1961 Bev/Fury, swapped/bolt in a 1970 E body 8 3/4 rather than deal with an antiquated design/obsolete parts, the OP could have had this in place for the amount of effort in just getting a drum off
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#2820906
09/15/20 01:44 AM
09/15/20 01:44 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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A buddy of mine drove the wheel studs in with a BFHKevin Doing this risks enlarging the holes in the hub. Cut the swedges first. I'm pretty sure the hole in the hub is bigger than the swedge otherwise how would you be able to install a stud in the first place? The BFH method while crude, is effective. Kevin
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: Twostick]
#2820938
09/15/20 07:36 AM
09/15/20 07:36 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,175 nowhere
Sniper
master
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,175
nowhere
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A buddy of mine drove the wheel studs in with a BFHKevin Doing this risks enlarging the holes in the hub. Cut the swedges first. I'm pretty sure the hole in the hub is bigger than the swedge otherwise how would you be able to install a stud in the first place? The BFH method while crude, is effective. Kevin Pretty sure you don't understand what swedging is. The swedge is formed after the stud is installed in the hub, it is peened over to essentially rivet the drum and hub together and no the BFH is not effective unless your goal is to remove the lug with no concern to damage caused. Model A but the concept applies http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: Sniper]
#2821200
09/15/20 05:48 PM
09/15/20 05:48 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,545
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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I iou A buddy of mine drove the wheel studs in with a BFHKevin Doing this risks enlarging the holes in the hub. Cut the swedges first. I'm pretty sure the hole in the hub is bigger than the swedge otherwise how would you be able to install a stud in the first place? The BFH method while crude, is effective. Kevin Pretty sure you don't understand what swedging is. The swedge is formed after the stud is installed in the hub, it is peened over to essentially rivet the drum and hub together and no the BFH is not effective unless your goal is to remove the lug with no concern to damage caused. Model A but the concept applies http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm The concept I understand but apparently not the execution. I wasn't there when my buddy did it but the way he described it, I assumed the swage was rolled into the stud making a bubble with a slightly larger OD than the rest of the stud. The reason I made that assumption was because he told me he had to turn the new stud down a couple thou at that particular spot for the drum to slip on the stud and locate exactly. He may very well have cut the swage off before applying the BFH and perhaps the part that gets peined over on the new stud didn't go through the hole in the drum to suit him so he gave it a shave. I stand corrected. Kevin
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Re: The dreaded splined axle brake drum removal
[Re: Twostick]
#2823427
09/21/20 08:04 PM
09/21/20 08:04 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545 Seattle, WA
375inStroke
OP
Special needs person
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OP
Special needs person
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,545
Seattle, WA
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So, I got it off using the Fairbanks puller. Thanks, John K. A 1/2" steel plate that I spent over an hour at the drill press with, and ten left and right hand thread lug nuts I welded together to put on the wheel studs. A few bolts, and it came off easily. There was even anti seize on the shaft, but all the other methods failed. The puller you showed, BANDIT, sure looks heavy duty. All the ones I see for sale look like cheap imitations, and I can't imagine what the price of a real puller would be. I tried the knocker, but the quarter panel kept me from getting a real good swing at it. Threaded puller, and slide hammer puller from the local Schmuck's Auto didn't work, even while applying heat, and blasting away with a rivet gun while under tension. Making hard turns with the nut loose, or slamming the brakes on from 30mph with the car on jack stands also didn't work. It knocked the trim ring off the other wheel, though. Five half inch bolts all pulling together did the trick, and cost $6. Changing to right hand studs is why I'm taking this off. I'll definitely be trying to do the slip on drum conversion. Thanks for everyone's help. I did try all your suggestions other than using a real puller which I don't have access to.
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