Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818629
09/08/20 04:11 PM
09/08/20 04:11 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,005 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,005
Tulsa OK
|
There isn't really any downside, of you are running with no alternator or you run fans etc with the engine off you should get a deep cycle. The only downside is the cranking amps are usually a little less but most people have way more of that than they need. If you have to have two batteries or 1000CCA to start your junk you have other problems, I don't care what your compression is lol.
I like the Optima products, despite what a lot of people say about them they are great batteries. I just replaced a ten year old yellow top in my race car and a 7 year old redtop in my Jeep. The yellow was still working but was starting to gas when charging, and the red top just died from lack of use.
The yellow top has deep cycle capability and is still 750CCA so its a good choice for any race car really.
Last edited by Bad340fish; 09/08/20 04:13 PM.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340 87 "Chrysler" Conquest
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818651
09/08/20 05:09 PM
09/08/20 05:09 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Thank you, I have a fairly new large deep cycle and I am considering replacing my Braille batteries, with it. My concern is if the Braille fail, I am done, using a more conventional battery, I could snag a battery out of Ram. I also run a alternator, just sharing. Thanks Jamie I run a 65 amp alt and a regular battery.. its been in the race car 9 years when I raced full time.. I run electric fuel(I should say 2 fuel pumps) and water pump with msd7al ignition and a trans brake
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 09/08/20 05:14 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818673
09/08/20 06:17 PM
09/08/20 06:17 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945 Oregon
AndyF
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
|
Thank you, I have a fairly new large deep cycle and I am considering replacing my Braille batteries, with it. My concern is if the Braille fail, I am done, using a more conventional battery, I could snag a battery out of Ram. I also run a alternator, just sharing. Thanks Jamie If you have an alternator then I don't think you need a deep cycle battery.
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818679
09/08/20 06:33 PM
09/08/20 06:33 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,110 Usa
A39Coronet
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,110
Usa
|
Thank you, I have a fairly new large deep cycle and I am considering replacing my Braille batteries, with it. My concern is if the Braille fail, I am done, using a more conventional battery, I could snag a battery out of Ram. I also run a alternator, just sharing. Thanks Jamie What would prevent you from swapping the Braille for the regular battery out of your truck in a pinch? The downside to deep cycles are they weigh a ton. Our Coronet had one when we bought it, and I eventually switched them over to regular 34 group size 12vs. Experienced no difference in capacity, and I regularly double entered. Probably a spill over from years gone by, just like running two batteries which I was guilty of. Also, anyone that runs without an alternator is nuts, it's a game changer in a racecar.
Last edited by A39Coronet; 09/08/20 06:37 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818734
09/08/20 08:53 PM
09/08/20 08:53 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,110 Usa
A39Coronet
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,110
Usa
|
The battery mounts would be different, and I was thinking of standardizing as much as possible. The reason for the deep cycle question, is that I have a new one already. I also will let the fan-water pump run in the lanes to cool the engine. A deep cycle would be more dependable and honestly, I sometimes forget to turn everything off after races. Deep cycle being more forgiving for that mistake. Jamie I wouldn't rush out to replace it but I probably would consider conventional once it gives up the ghost. With an alternator it's just not the application they were designed for. I believe my batteries from Advance Auto had 180min capacity ratings, and I also would run fans and pumps without issue. That's a heck of a lot of reserve time.
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818779
09/08/20 10:57 PM
09/08/20 10:57 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
|
I've used marine, deep cycle group 24 and 27 in my drag cars for years, starting back in the mid 1970s. The main reasons are the car sits a lot between uses and the deep cycle and marine batteries are design for that application, sits a lot between uses I do charge mine for 2 to 3 days before using them at between 2 to 4 amps on a small battery charger, I also added a 100 amp alternator so I wouldn't have to use the charger at the races anymore during the lunch break to top them off before starting eliminations
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818917
09/09/20 11:49 AM
09/09/20 11:49 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Mr_P_Body, I have one large deep cycle battery in consideration. My alternator is small, not sure of the amps, 60 + -. The battery weighs around 70 lbs and will be placed in the trunk. I have a question for you, how do you ground the batteries in your car? Thanks Jamie Not quite sure what you mean here.. the battery is the ground.. then it goes to the master switch then goes forward to the solenoid(ford style) then it splits to all the electric items.. the solenoid has a starter post which I use EDIT I was giving you the major points.. yes I ground the engine.. both of my cars are tube chassis cars so I tend to use the tubing for a lot of the grounds.. I also run a ground on the motor plate and one at the back of the car.. these couple of points are large cable(usually a 0 size and the same up front at the engine plate) then the smaller stuff going to each electrical component I have never has any issue with the electrical on the car and it cranks great.. I have only used a single battery since day one
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 09/10/20 07:47 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2818988
09/09/20 02:41 PM
09/09/20 02:41 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945 Oregon
AndyF
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,945
Oregon
|
I have been told by several, different locations on how to ground the battery ( negative post ), such as to the body, to the frame, to block then to the frame, so on and so on. I am just curious what you would recommend. Depends if it is an analog car or a digital car. Analog cars can get away with poor grounds, digital cars need the ground circuit to be dialed in. With an analog car you should be able to ground the battery to the chassis and to the block and that should be good to go. If it is a full tube chassis car then grounding the battery to the chassis and then grounding the block to the chassis should work. With a digital car you need to be a lot more careful on how you run the grounds.
|
|
|
Re: Deep Cycle
[Re: Jamie340]
#2819123
09/09/20 10:16 PM
09/09/20 10:16 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,094 Byron, NY
W.I.N. Racing
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,094
Byron, NY
|
I switched to Snyder Motorsports and am happy with the performance so far, Haven gotten any Time (years) on a set yet but they swing over a 526 blown Hemi just fine. I have two but one may be enough for a non blown application. The plus's are weight, size and cost (less than an Optima)
Last edited by W.I.N. racing; 09/09/20 10:20 PM.
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60 '01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list '60 Willys CJ5 '01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison '64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
|
|
|
|
|