I have a confusing issue with my adjustment rod. I purchased a repop and it’s attached to an original torque shaft and correct fork. The issue is that it’s angled on end and doesn’t last flat on the torque shaft arm like it should.

The adjustment rod for e-body big blocks is straight not angled and would work perfectly with the alignment that I have with the arm and end of fork.

Any pics of small blocks that you can share?

Thanks

Flip it over 180 degrees and see how that works
I think that is the correct way to run them on the E body stick cars, it has been over thirty years since I sold my last one
I would use that A motor rod in all of my E and B body stick shift cars

I tried that and no better. Part number in book is 2534240 for small block. A quick search revealed a NOS one on EBay and it’s straight. All vendors that I’ve checked sell the angled one for small blocks. I figure a straight one will get me on my way but just can’t understand how they all can be wrong.

Thanks for the help.

Angled is correct, and it is flipped the wrong way in the photo.

Do you have the correct length clutch fork?

I wish all my mechanical problems were this simple to solve:

Pull it off and pound it flat.

You're welcome.

Flipped 180 is how I originally had it but it threw the clip because it never fit properly. I’ll flip it again for another photo for reference.

Clutch fork is correct. I dropped dust cover today to check that. 10 7/8”.

Thanks for the reply.

Thought of that but it is hardened steel and I’m afraid of bending the shaft. Trying to understand which is correct for others. I have all the correct components associated with the rod and those being sold for small blocks are angled but isn’t working for me. Why! Why! Why! Lol.

Agreed, had the same issue on the smblk 4spd in my Challenger, put it in a vise and a pipe over the threads and bend it straight, why the factory made it this way is beyond me...friggen Engineers

Pounding it flat would be quite ignorant when it was intended to be this way.

Notice the adjusting nut orientation as well.

That’s an all together different setup at the adjusting nut end compared to what I’ve seen. This may be the reason why the orientation of nut is different.

Notice too how short the fork appears. This would call for an angled rod eyelet. I have a photo of a TA that validates this.

....but post a pic of the low mileage TA and it will contradict this. Well it seems that it does.

What the crap is going on?

Okay, dropping a driveshaft, transmission, exhaust, bellhousing and clutch, wasting time looking for parts and spending money is the "proper" way to go. This from a Guy that uses a dump truck as a commuter.

Pound it flat like anyone with some common $ense would, and move on with your life.

You need to get the retainer orientated correctly for it to work , They are a pain to install on E body A motor cars properly
Make sure the tranny is installed before installing the rod and retainer

Maybe it is just the angle of the pic but it looks like that OP adjusting rod has more of a bend then others I have seen.

Yes it does but is same as repops being made these days.

I have another picture of a well known survivor AAR that shows the rod as straight.

Ok hear me out. What if there were shorter forks mixed in with what we believe is the correct length (or what's being sold as correct 10.88") and assembly just used either the flat or angled rod depending on which fork was installed. That theory may be blown due to the fact of the changing pivot points of the fork.

May be grasping here but it's fun learning about it. I do understand the idea of moving on and do know that it can simply be resolved but would still like to know if possible, Why.

It looks like something is not right with your clutch fork. It looks to be sticking out too far or is the too long? Barry's fork does not extend all the way to the mount at the z bar but yours does. Could the throw out bearing not be fully engaged in the fork?

Could the z bar be wrong?

Measured ZBar and Fork yesterday.Measurement from arm to end was 1 1/2 which is same as your bottom picture. Fork is 10 7/8. Took the dust cover off and measured to doublecheck. Fork end is attached to throw out bearing as it should be.

Thanks for the help

I would pound it flat and get rid of the troublesome stock rubber end adjuster and go with this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Clutch-Linkage-Upgrade-A833-340-440-Dart-Coronet-GTX-R-T-Cuda-Charger-GTX/324275222079?epid=1923119374&hash=item4b804f363f:g:2JEAAOSwq4ld~9VH&vxp=mtr

That's whats in Barry's picture and it works 100 times better.

Yes I noticed it was being used in the picture as well. Good to know they work better. I have one of those and may look into that.

Thanks, Chet

Barry, The picture you've shown is NOT OE for 1970 I assure you.
its missing the washer, and the rubber insulator bushing. The nut is supposed to go on the other way thus swedged into the washer to keep it locked in place




My money is on the OP has the wrong Z bar , or at the very least is installed backwards , if thats possible