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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: racerx]
#2800463
07/24/20 01:21 AM
07/24/20 01:21 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,185
aZLiViN
J_BODY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,185
aZLiViN
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Anyone ever tried the Moser fab housing 8.75?
You’ll just have a fancy looking 8.75.... that’ll still break
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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2800464
07/24/20 01:35 AM
07/24/20 01:35 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,185
aZLiViN
J_BODY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 13,185
aZLiViN
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I never found the need for them.. where a failure accures is the carrier.. thats why I went to the alum MP carrier its much stronger with thu bolt for the caps that carrier dosent let the ring and pinion separate like the stock one   .... I’ve got picts on my phone that says otherwise! At least when the aluminum one lets go you get style points!
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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: Neil]
#2800528
07/24/20 09:33 AM
07/24/20 09:33 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
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I think if I were doing a back brace I would dimple die it too. Those do make metal quite a bit stiffer. Well consider, 11g is a bit tough to dimple die, and IMO the housing is resisting two primary forces in the back brace area, torsion/twist, not sure how much dimple die would add to resist that, and that calculation is above my pay grade, and bending, from the forward thrust forces, which bends the center span of the housing rearward, or the opposite of the tire side of the spring pad(?) which is bending forward, meaning the back brace is mainly under tension, and adding dimple dies adds little stiffness/strength. Now if the brace was in compression, I agree, your suggestion would likely be beneficial. 
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: n20mstr]
#2805755
08/06/20 01:41 PM
08/06/20 01:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,351
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,351
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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all tese stories have me nervous taking my 8.75 to the track not running that much power only 520 hp 560 torque at the crank in a 3150 lb car people tell me if my tires hook the dif will break , guess the Dana is the only way to go for reliability . like you say py me now or pay more later . maybe i'll sell my 2 8.75 A body difs and have enough for the Dana .
interesting thread Probably the best bang for the buck out there is the ford explorer (2000- 2006?) 8.8 rear. You can usually buy one from a junkyard for 100.00 to 300.00 . They usually have 4.10 gears with a somewhat decent posi unit, and factory disc brakes. My son bought one from a junkyard for 150.00. We put new perches on it, bolted it in and ran it......Stock axles and all, even left the junkyard fluid in it ! ! ! It literally has hundreds of passes on it , 11.50's to 10.90s in a 3200lb duster. Cant get much better than that. THen when you upgrade your power its not that big a deal to upgrade the 8.8 and there are a ton of aftermarket good parts for it, and its light and strong enough to handle 7 second HP. Friend of mine put one of these 8.8" Explorer rearends under a Chevy S-10 Blazer that ran mid 5s in the 1/8 w/ a 496" BB Chevy on nitrous. Still had all the stock internals as far as I know. Never hurt it in several years of racing before he sold it.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: MoonshineMattK]
#2806044
08/07/20 08:16 AM
08/07/20 08:16 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,671
On the parachute mount
n20mstr
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,671
On the parachute mount
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What's the stock width on the 8.8? Is it close to 68 B-body?
Thanks im pretty sure its 54" It fits in an A body pretty good, so it should fit a B body very nice
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: roadrunninMark]
#2806495
08/08/20 10:37 AM
08/08/20 10:37 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Do any of you guys that bad 8 3/4 rears still have any of the parts? I am looking to see if I can save this 741 clutch type sure grip w/o getting a whole new unit. I need one side of the unit that keeps the pin from spinning, as it is starting to happen with the unit I have. I am trying to save it as it has the gears I want and it is the same 741 as my car is. Here is a picture of what is going on with mine.
Thanks
Sorry but the 2 units I have are both in use.. your unit is getting hard to find.. good luck EDIT I should have said the 2 units I run are the 742
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 08/08/20 11:21 AM.
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Re: Building a strong 8 3/4 rearend.
[Re: roadrunninMark]
#2806543
08/08/20 12:23 PM
08/08/20 12:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,814
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,814
Kirkland, Washington
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Do any of you guys that bad 8 3/4 rears still have any of the parts? I am looking to see if I can save this 741 clutch type sure grip w/o getting a whole new unit. I need one side of the unit that keeps the pin from spinning, as it is starting to happen with the unit I have. I am trying to save it as it has the gears I want and it is the same 741 as my car is. Here is a picture of what is going on with mine.
Thanks
That’s a cone type, and it’s toast. Start over with a clutch type powr lok.
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