I can't make any sense of what you're asking or what you're trying to do at this point.

We got off topic some.
The inter cooler is above engine and radiator and I have a Moroso 55gpm engine pump so will this effect the engine flow and cooling and will I have air pockets and how to get rid of them.I was thinking of a in line radiator petcock at the intercooler outlet wherer it starts to go to the radiator inlet hot side.I will use a single in/out 3/4" hose.

So you still plan to run the engine coolant through the intercooler?

If so I have no opinion of what you do from there.

That is ok and thank you for your opinions!

Get yourself a vacuum cooling system filling tool. You will not regret it.

This question might be above my paygrade , but having recently put a turbo on my 383, I have a small bit of experience with boost increasing air temps. I have a water/meth setup, but I am also planning an air/water intercooler.

Just so we are 100% clear... my understanding is that you are wanting to run HOT engine coolant (180+ degrees presumably) through your intercooler? That might be some very "outside of the box" thinking on your part, but why would you want to heat up the air going into your engine? Most non-race air to water intercoolers have a separate radiator that would keep the liquid's temperature down near ambient temps.... this cool liquid is pumped into the intercooler and (if sized correctly) will cool down the air charge. Sure, on a long pull, the intercooler liquid temps can increase significantly, but starting from ambient temps, they will be a long way away from the engine coolant temps. The idea that you might help cool off the engine's coolant with the air flow over the intercooler into the engine is definitely a new one to me! This is literally the last place you want hot air going in your engine.

Good luck with your project!

None of us should stop you from trying it, but it is the complete wrong direction for making power. It will absolutely act as an intake heater, and you will have to run less timing than if you had it on a separate circuit.

Every air to water intercooled OEM automobile I can think of uses a separate radiator for the intercooler circuit. If it worked to plumb the intercooler to the primary radiator, the OEM's would do it, because it would be much cheaper than the expense and packaging of a separate radiator and water pump for the intercooler.

Cat 3306 engines run an engine coolant aftercooler as described. This accomplished two things. Because the 3306 was mechanically injected, the charge air temp swings were more consistent allowing a better running engine throughout the range. It also cooled the turbocharged air temps. (At times reaching close to 300°) It was a good solution for running the engine at 100% load for hours on end without heat soaking any other form of charge air cooling.
That being said.... My opinion is this is a less than perfect solution for a problem that doesn’t really exist on a street/ strip car. I believe the boost level quoted was 8 psi. I cant believe charge air temps would exceed engine coolant temps at that boost level. Even if the charge temps were 200°, an average coolant temp would be 180°. The best you would achieve in that scenario would be a 190° post-cooler charge air temp. Hardly worth the effort.
An independent cooling system would be a much better choice. Or loose the cooler, along with the weight and added complexity, and run the thing on e85 or some such fuel. Less weight, more timing, cooler charge temps, more power.

I guess I need a better suited heat exchanger so it is not so hard to place and plum.I think a basic exchanger would be about 3 to 400$
I could just run the old 3gal water cell I used before with no exchanger for now

Thank you that is some great information.I am not looking to create a problem so for now the engine coolant is not worth it ti use it.

You wouldn't unless you want-

Insane intake air temps to decrease charge density

Lower power

Highly increased sensitivity to detonation


Unless of course you have a diesel with 350 deg turbo outlet temps, in which case a divorced system would still work better.

What you say is true and in time I hope to get a suited heat exchanger.I was looking on Summit racing and a 26"x7"x2" was about 200$ and not a bad price but I still have to find a place to put it and under the bumper is 1 of the few places it would work well.

Do you have room for something like this?

I ran air/water intercooler on my 70 malibu and mounted an 03 cobra heat exchanger underneath the car.

I have an area much like that to put it

As long as it's tilted to get some airflow it works well.

Along with that I used a vintage 60's cooler in the trunk with a marine bilge pump mounted inside for a reservoir. Overall inexpensive.

I have my 3gall tall cell with a mezier wp136 still to use and it flowed a little better than the Demco bilge pump I tried.I also have a Rule 2000 pump and a 10 gall cell I was fitting it to but the priority fell back on the list for a few yrs.I will use the 3 gall cell for now.

I ordered a heat exchanger for under 170$ shipped heat exchanger26x7x2"

The bigger the lines and pump, the closer to ambient you will get.
I did a friends car with a tru-flo pump and 5/8 lines. worked pretty well, but not as expected. went to 3/4 lines and it cooled another 15degrees. Put 1'' hose on it with an actual cooling system elecrtic pump, and dropped 35degrees beyond that. no change in tank size or heat exchanger size. you must move the water in and out as fast as possible for best results.

On point ^

Good info thanks.I will get it running with what I have used in the past 3/4 and -12 Mezier wp136.I flow tested it and was about 1 gallon in 10 sec = to 1 run.I have done all the BTU math in the past.I will post pics when I get the exchanger in next week.