For those who have used EvapoRust, what's your procedure for cleaning the part afterwards? If painting is planned after using.

if you read the instructions ,quiet simple to follow ,rinse with water. wipe dry and prepare to paint just like anything else you might do. gees don't you guys ever read anything?

A forum is for asking questions, that's what I'm doing. I haven't even decided to buy it yet.

Flash rust after cleaning and before paint day is something that crosses my mind.

It is so much easier to be helpful........

I rinse with water then spray with WD-40 to dissipate the water.

When ready to paint, I remove the WD with lacquer thinner.

its even easier when you read the instructions or go to the website and read the instructions there or you could watch an add on TV or online . Its great to help people in need of a talent or skill that you may have ,but to see someone take the time to post a question that any 5th grader could figure out is just plain lazy. there is a reason for elementary school and it wasn't recess.

Geez little detroit, lighten up a bit.

Joe

Some people recommend rinsing off the evaporust with mineral spirits. I tried that once but it didn't work very well for me. The evaporust floated on top of the mineral spirits and turned kind of slimy. I just rinse with water and immediately blow dry with an air hose. The evaporust does a great job at preventing flash rust. I've had parts sitting in the house for weeks after being dipped and they still look like they just came out of the dip.

If you are soaking a large part and you can't completely submerge it, an etching line can occur on the part at the water line. To prevent this, you can "wet" paper towels in the evaporust and put them around the part at the water line.

Great product. I usually wash with mild detergent right after taking it out of the solution. I try to paint or RPM the part pretty quickly to avoid flash rust, but that’s usually not a big problem for other than cast parts (calipers, manifolds, etc). Evaporust also makes a spray “rust block” that is supposed to protect against rust for an extended period. It washes off with mild detergent when you’re ready to paint/coat the part. I’ve used that with good results too.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Block-Evapo-Rust-Months-Stored-Inside/dp/B0037ZAJ88/ref=sr_1_8?

The great thing about evaporust is that it can be reused so many times. If you do get flash rust, a quick re-dip will take care of it.

As the instructions will say, you need to clean the part before putting it in. Any grease or dirt will prevent the solution from getting at the rust. It’s also necessary sometimes to have to dip parts multiple times. Good to have a brass brush to scrub away loosened rust before re-dipping.

Good luck.

Very important part of my resto, been using it for over a decade. I usually rinse in soapy water and then rinse with non-soapy water. Then I dry immediately after, sometimes with a heat gun.

Also use WD-40 at times.

Somebody woke up on the wrong side of the bed. I usually rinse and then scrub with some acetone or lacquer thinner.

I've went straight to PPG DX metal cleaner on some parts. It holds off the rust until your ready to prime and paint.

Flammable brake cleaner works. It has acetone in the formula and acetone absorbs water/moisture and the other solvents stay wet enough to wipe down with non lint paper towels.

Water first then dry. Then Marine Clean By POR15 to lose the flash rust and rinse with water. Then marine clean again and set in sun on a hot day to dry. I know its twice but I have stuff in the garage 5-6 years now and no rust.

The cheapest deal I've found on Evapo-Rust is free freight on 5 gallons delivered to a Northern Tool store.

After soaking in Evapo-Rust and while wearing nitrile gloves, I wipe off the part with a rag, apply a rinse of mineral spirits with a paint brush, wipe off, paint the part with phosphoric acid, wipe off, paint with mineral spirits again, and wipe off. The part is then ready for paint. There is never any flash rusting with this non-water method.

If the part sits for a long time and starts to re-rust, simply scrub with Scotch Brite and phosphoric acid, and the rust is completely removed.

To soak large parts such as a rear axle housing in Evapo-Rust, I've used a child's wading pool partly filled with sand and overlaid with 7 mil plastic sheet. The sand was shaped to outline the part and reduce the volume of Evapo-Rust needed. I've also done this with doors and a trunk lid.

“The great thing about evaporust is that it can be reused so many times”
I can only get 2-3 times before it turns black and stops working. I keep the parts-solution in a closed container then back into the jug. Price per use is high

I have found that a big factor in the life of evaporust is the part cleanliness. Grease wipes it out. Other big factor is exposure to air, the water will evaporate out, but you can add water to replace.
Old used up evaporust will still work, but I found it takes longer and darkens the part when it comes out.
I have some evaporust in a small open container on my bench for random tiny uses, like a occasional bolt or nut. The stuff becomes a sticky goo when the water evaporates out but I pour in some water and the part, leave it overnight and it is cleaned off the next morning.

A lot of great info. I'll give it a go.

Several older threads on Evaporust but this is the most recent and I didn't want to start another so....
Just got around to trying this product and am pretty impressed so far.
Was at an estate sale recently and went "full-digger" mode in a tiny little log cabin/shed (maybe 10x15x5 high). 100 degrees out and shin-deep "tetanus-in-waiting" everywhere but I pulled a stack of old license plates out of the piles.
Top-to-bottom:
As found.
9 hours soaking.
2 hours soaking.
As you can see the Evaporust works but the longer it soaks the more it apparently attacks rust under the paint and lifts it too. Not an issue if you are fully restoring the part but I want to preserve some of these so I'm playing with soak times. Side note: it did not change the color. The white paint appeared on the middle plate after the first hour. At 3 hours I still wanted more rust off so I left it overnight as a test. Idaho must've changed plate colors between years/counties/etc. I'll know more as I continue cleaning them up. I got about 8...mostly consecutive years.

I'm going to stick up for Little Detroit a bit. When a post starts out with something like "I've been looking for hours and have found nothing on (fill in the blank)......", that question I'll respond to. The poster has put some skin in the game and, for whatever reason, was unsuccessful. But if a question is posed and after 60 seconds with Mr. Google I have the answer.....????

Now there are some topics that are so broad that Mr. Google will overwhelm you with responses. My favorite subject is paint and body questions, here real world experience to me is more important than label directions you could get from a website.

If you are going to be successful in this hobby, you have to be prepared to invest some time and effort. I know all the oldsters on this forum have walked the face of the earth looking for a part or a procedure, it's part of the game.

Really it's just the car version of "give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime".

yep