Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: jcastle1]
#2798740
07/19/20 09:47 PM
07/19/20 09:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,673 S.E.Ohio
Magnumguy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,673
S.E.Ohio
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I upgraded the high beams on my regular driver Magnums, not had any issues wiring or fuse-wise. It has helped some but not earth shattering.
This is a bulb housing (resembled the original sealed beam) and an H1 bulb.
Last edited by Magnumguy; 07/19/20 09:49 PM.
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: Sniper]
#2799691
07/22/20 10:32 AM
07/22/20 10:32 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,122 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,122
Niles , Ohio
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When I had my 57 and my kid had his 62 Chryslers we just used good Halogen replacents.Lite upthe road great.My 65 with single lights I used std halogens then upgraded to the ones that take capsules.I went to 55/100 watt bulbs and they work good.Many will say rewire etc.But halogens draw less than the old sealed beams.I might up grade to the relay setup though.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: therocks]
#2799714
07/22/20 11:20 AM
07/22/20 11:20 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,936 Calgary, Alberta Canada
a12rag
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,936
Calgary, Alberta Canada
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Fastest way to get "better" output is to use a relay to feed the headlights - I think it's 1 volt drop, reduces light output by 10 lumens ??? . . . at any rate, you wire the relay to be "turned" on when you turn on the headlights, and then have a feed from the battery, thru a CIRCUIT BREAKER (don't use a fuse, because when it operates, you won't have ANY headlight until you replace it. The circuit breaker will trip, cool down and come back on . . .), to one side of relay contact and then other side of contact to the headlights . . . really makes a difference ! And, you have virtually NO current draw through the headlight switch.
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: a12rag]
#2800059
07/23/20 01:37 AM
07/23/20 01:37 AM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,117 CA
crackedback
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,117
CA
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Fastest way to get "better" output is to use a relay to feed the headlights - I think it's 1 volt drop, reduces light output by 10 lumens ??? . . . at any rate, you wire the relay to be "turned" on when you turn on the headlights, and then have a feed from the battery, thru a CIRCUIT BREAKER (don't use a fuse, because when it operates, you won't have ANY headlight until you replace it. The circuit breaker will trip, cool down and come back on . . .), to one side of relay contact and then other side of contact to the headlights . . . really makes a difference ! And, you have virtually NO current draw through the headlight switch. Light output drops exponentially with reductions in voltage. It is not linear. You DO NOT want to draw power for the headlights at the battery on a OEM wired muscle era mopar. I never use circuit breakers on the kits I sell. It's all in the design of the system. The bad side of auto reset circuit breakers, they will continue to turn back on and cook things. Relays and a set of halogens bulbs makes a HUGE difference in performance. Here's an example with the same halogen lights. Notice the dash light improvement as well.
Last edited by crackedback; 07/23/20 01:39 AM.
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: crackedback]
#2800110
07/23/20 08:50 AM
07/23/20 08:50 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,702 W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,702
W. Kentucky
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Fastest way to get "better" output is to use a relay to feed the headlights - I think it's 1 volt drop, reduces light output by 10 lumens ??? . . . at any rate, you wire the relay to be "turned" on when you turn on the headlights, and then have a feed from the battery, thru a CIRCUIT BREAKER (don't use a fuse, because when it operates, you won't have ANY headlight until you replace it. The circuit breaker will trip, cool down and come back on . . .), to one side of relay contact and then other side of contact to the headlights . . . really makes a difference ! And, you have virtually NO current draw through the headlight switch. Light output drops exponentially with reductions in voltage. It is not linear. You DO NOT want to draw power for the headlights at the battery on a OEM wired muscle era mopar. I never use circuit breakers on the kits I sell. It's all in the design of the system. The bad side of auto reset circuit breakers, they will continue to turn back on and cook things. Relays and a set of halogens bulbs makes a HUGE difference in performance. Here's an example with the same halogen lights. Notice the dash light improvement as well. So you ran all the lights through a relay?
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: justinp61]
#2800148
07/23/20 10:32 AM
07/23/20 10:32 AM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,382 Iowa
burdar
Owen's Dad
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Owen's Dad
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,382
Iowa
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So you ran all the lights through a relay? Just the headlights are run through relays. However, once the relays are used, you are taking a huge load off of the headlight switch. The power for the dash lights goes through the switch as well. So my guess is that if the switch only has to turn on the relays, there is more current available to the dash lights...which makes them brighter.
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: burdar]
#2800459
07/24/20 01:06 AM
07/24/20 01:06 AM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,117 CA
crackedback
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,117
CA
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So you ran all the lights through a relay? Just the headlights are run through relays. However, once the relays are used, you are taking a huge load off of the headlight switch. The power for the dash lights goes through the switch as well. So my guess is that if the switch only has to turn on the relays, there is more current available to the dash lights...which makes them brighter. And we have a winner. The headlight load no longer passes through the bulkhead as either. Less load on the cabin wire means greater efficiency of that sized wire to carry a reduced load, higher voltage levels at the instrument bulbs. Battery is a storage device. The alternator powers the car with engine running. Anything that is running primarily when engine is running should be tapped off the alternator. Things like electric fans which can run with engine off create a decision point and the OEM wiring doesn't provide a good solution. If you read instructions and they say that you want "direct battery power", they were likely written by someone that didn't have a basic background regarding how automotive electrical works.
Last edited by crackedback; 07/24/20 01:11 AM.
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Re: Modern Headlamps on Old Mopar
[Re: moparx]
#2800616
07/24/20 12:44 PM
07/24/20 12:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,117 CA
crackedback
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,117
CA
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so the MSD ignitions should be hooked to the starter relay with a jumper from the alternator to the starter relay ? their instructions say to hook direct to the battery. They are likely wanting it hooked there as the battery will buffer the charge cycles. The problem is voltage drop across the line from alternator to battery. Sometimes it can be significant and MSD's are known to not like voltages below a certain level. The OEM path is not set up to draw power there and if you run a wire around, you defeat the beloved ammeter...
Last edited by crackedback; 07/24/20 12:45 PM.
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