I can't get my dash lights to work on my 1971 Charger with rallye dash. I'm finishing up on a complete restoration so everything has been gone through. All exterior lights work, the dome light works, the in dash turn signal indicators work, the red high beam light works, and the brake warning light in the dash works.I just can't get my in dash gauge lights to work. All the bulbs were replaced before the dash went into the car. I have voltage at the fuse block at the 3 amp fuse for the instrument lights were the tan wire comes into the fuse block, so it can't be the headlight switch. As soon as i put a good fuse in, I have no voltage. The fuse does not blow. I pull the fuse out, and the voltage is back at the tan wire side of the fuse block.

I jumpered out the air grabber switch light, because it's easiest to get access to, and the light will work with 12 volts to positive pin, which tells me my ground is ok. Also the turn signal and high beam indicators would not work if i didn't have a good ground at the gauge cluster.

I am just stumped why I would have voltage with no fuse installed, and 0 volts with the fuse installed.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

Have you checked that the headlamp switch is not rotated to the completely dim position? I know simple but been there done that.

You have what I call errant voltage. Basically enough to get a reading but not enough to carry a load. Simple test. Take a jumper wire and apply 12 volts from a good source to the dash light fuse and see if the dash lights up. If it does than its either the headlight switch, the tan wire has an open, or possibly if there is extra cavities in the headlamp switch connector the tan wire is in the wrong one.

I have rotated the headlight switch dial to different settings and that's not it. I will check the errant voltage test tomorrow and see what I come up with.

Thanks for the help.
Bill

I'm just thinking crazy, so you can call me crazy with this question.

Floor shifter or column shifter?

Did you replaced the ign switch for a new one ?

A couple of things, is the ground reinforcement wire in place and look at the dimer coil on the switch, if it is broken then no lights.

brake light warning light doesn't work with ground at cluster... it gets in fact constant positive from Ign1 circuit and the turning on signal is ground... hence the reason for a plastic isolated socket with two wires for it

he is getting voltage at fuse coming after the dimmer coil.

However, voltage can go throught a hair, and when load is requested, it can be not enough to light up the system. Maybe it worths the check for the coil/spring conditions?

but OP said with fuse, gets 0 volts... that's too radical.

Bad dimmer switch. Very common.

I bypassed the switch and the tan wire, and jumpered the orange wire with 12 volt. All the dash lights lit up as it should. So based on NITROUSN's post, it's either the switch or something with the tan wire. I just researched a new headlight switch, and can't believe they have them in stock at NAPA for only $20. If I would have known that I would have bought a new one and installed it when the dash was out of the car.

I appreciate the help and everyone's comments!

Bill

Now just apply 12 volts at the headlight switch tan wire. Most likely its the switch. I assumed with the restoration you had replaced it.

Headlight switch replaced, not a fun job, but all is working! Thanks again!

Bill

Glad it worked out.

yes, they are available. Not same quality than originals... but, well... they exist. I think never have replaced my switch by a new replacement piece, but just changed the dimmer wheel ceramic piece from a nice used one for the one on my car which was sulfated.

it's great to hear when a poster gets his problem fixed !
glad a new switch cured the ills.