I am sure this applies to a dominator as well but this was on a 4150. When I was happy how well my carb ran at wide open I measured all the areas that flowed fuel on the primary side and calculated the fuel flow area. Then knocked down the main jet size until the air fuel ratio cleaned up during street driving and highway cruise. When I was done I calculated the area of flow again, then added the difference back into the power valve channel. This made a carb that cruised clean, got good MPG, and ran the same wide open.

Now, I hated that process, it took awhile with lots of testing and trial and error. I have all these tiny drill bits and pin vices that are no fun to use. That process really made me look into fuel injection and once I switched I couldn't be happier and will never go back.

I have a 1150 Domm with 4 corner idle. Runs fine and no issues, but I know some of you guys have really been able to fine tune them for better street manners. Its on a 12.5-1 493, Indy-1's and indy single plane, 268@.050 solid roller, 5200 converter, 4.10 gears, 295/65 drag radial, guesstimate of 3400lb. Not exacty your average street car but I do ike to cruise on the street from time to time. Any pointers are appreciated!

this is the correct way to do it. think of the carb as having three distinct circuits; idle, cruise, power. trying to only use jets for power and cruise usually screws up both circuits. folks ignore the power valve channel restrictions but these passages are the power circuit; jets by themselves aren't.

Street tuning is going to be difficult due to the cam not the carb. With a big cam like that you'll need a lot of advance at idle. It is difficult to achieve the timing curve you need with a mechanical distributor which is why I'd suggest going digital. If it was my car I'd do a Sniper + Hyperspark combo which will give you complete digital control of fuel and ignition. That setup comes with a wide band and a data logger so you can really dial in the tune. You can do it with a carb and a mechanical distributor but you'll need spend some money to make it work. You might be money ahead to switch to digital.

Put an O2 gauge on the car so you can see how the adjustments really affect the tune.

I would lean down the idle fuel feed and transition fuel feed circuits on the primary side to make it leaner at idle and ight part throttle cruise
I've done that on several two circuits 1050 Dominators for street driving, if you don't know how to identify those circuits and have a pin vise and small # drill bit sets it might be challenging to get it done
PM me if you want more information on this
Dominic, Thumperdart, may be your best choice to do it for you, if he still does customizing customers carbs

Certainly something to consider. My timing is locked out and use a digital 6 w start retard, so I have full advance at idle. Jetting is set where it made the most power on the dyno. Honestly, it runs pretty good and can idle all day, and has great response. Definitely not concerned about gas mileage! Id mostly just like less fumes

I need one!

The stink comes from unburnt fuel, lean the idle circuits, all four of them, to get rid of the stink