I finished the 65 coronet and got that out. Now I am working on a 1970 Barracuda.

It has been sitting about 10-15 years. I wanna get it going soon.

On the 727 transmission i would prefer to use hose VS the hard lines like from the factory- is there anything special about doing this? Do i need to run specific type of hose? Steel braided?

On a drag car with a trans brake I would use #6 PTFE, Teflon lined hose, stainless covered or not depending on your preferences.
Teflon lined stainless AN hose is quite a bit stiffer than the same size line with neopreme or viton liner.
Teflon line hose will hold a lot more pressure,1000 Lbs + and will survive with a lot more heat,500F+
You may be able to buy and use hydraulic hose and fittings also, they use the same type fittings as AN, 37 degree versus 45 degree
That is the 3rd drag race car with that color on them, I've owned two of them.

fantastic, thank you.


I am waiting on all new brake lines, the rest of the front disc conversion kit. then ill drop the motor and trans in and start wiring it up.


This was going to be a 5 speed manual car... but due to budget and time constraints it will go 727.

Anyone know what a nice looking used richmond 5 speed sells for these days???

I have normal (not PTFE) -6AN braided stainless hose for my trans lines. Typical 37° aluminum fittings. Same lines have been on my car since 2003 I think. Same stuff I use for fuel lines. I have 3 cars done this way and have been that way for years w/ no issues.
The PTFE hose is better quality hose, more expensive, but not really necessary for this application IMO.

Steel lines are a real pain. The braided hose running along the frame rail makes life much easier.

do you know what fitting to use coming out of trans?

what about going into the trans cooler? just hose clamps over barb fittings?

When the battery is in the trunk, do you run your power cable through the interior and out the firewall to the starter? or from the trunk under the chassis to the starter?

I run #4 only because of the hole dimension in the 1/8 in pipe thread side of the fitting at the tranny. #6 just seemed over kill to me plus bulky.

I think it is 1/8 inch NPT, National Pipe Thread. Remove one of them and take it to a parts house to verify that it is 1/8 NPT before buying any new fittings

1/8 NPT coming out of the trans.
The coolers seem to vary...........my last B&M was 3/8 NPT .
I have a Derale going in my current project that has 1/2 NPT.
-6 line...........I used the PTFE / stainless on the Dart and they require a generous radius for bends , but it never presented a problem.
I am using conventional braided stainless on the Volare.
Don't waste your time with barbed fittings and clamps.
And I know they work and have worked for years.
But when they fail , it is spectacular.
Not a gamble I am willing to take.

interior. I would suggest welding cable.

i just re-did this in my car. Run the welding cable its much better and more flexible. Use a moroso or other pass thru stud for the starter through the floor pan.

I've used 6an nylon sleeved AN without an issue. I've clearanced the fittings at the trans so I could get the most out of the 6an line. Cooler is low pressure so it shouldn't need anything special. No way I'll ever use metal sleeved AN again, you don't get cut or splinters with the nylon style and it's easier to add ends.

For the battery cable and grounds, I used 0/1 welding cable and fittings from Delcity and Waytec wiring. Wayyyy cheaper than sourcing through an automotive supplier, at least at that time. #4 for alternator charging wire. I went overboard because I had to drop out of a semi-final due to a wiring issue and said never again.

awesome gentlemen, thank you for the advise.

Ill look for the welding wire and the bulkhead through thingy... great idea. never crossed my mind!

Yep, it's 1/8" npt at the trans. I have an old cheap trans cooler from Advance Auto parts that's been on the car since 1997...just pushed the -6an hose over the barbed fittings and used hose clamps. Been that way a long time and still works great. I'd rather have a nice cooler w/ AN fittings, but if it aint broke...

The car is being converted to 4 wheel disc brakes. I currently have no proporting valve and need to buy one. Does it matter that the car will be 4 wheel disc? Do I need a special valve.?

I use the factory dist block for my brakes . Strange master in factory location and strange disc front and rear

Are you going to keep the master cylinder above the rotor brake line entrance? If so then you shouldn't need any residual pressure valves, but I'm thinking a adjustable proportioning easy to reach valve will be a good thing to have, especially if you do a lot of hard braking

How well do your brakes work? Is it streetable? How is the brake pressure. I have a OE style master for disc/ drum with a proportion valve.

OE style discs in front and willwood in the rear. Long story on the front... got a raw deal a few years back buying race stuff that never showed up.

I am mounting the master in stock location, And I have an adjustable proportioning valve. Thank you!

brakes are in and bled.

now where would you mount the fuel pump?

i want it lower than the cell but the only spot i can do that puts it directly behind the tires!!!!

My brakes work great . Don’t know what you mean by streetable , but it stops pretty
Good . Has a good pedal