anyone ever use a dry cut saw like this ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ironton-Dry-Cut-Metal-Saw-14in-15-Amp-1450-RPM/401265970891
if so, what did you think of it ?
there are several variations/brands like this out there. this is just one example.
as always, a big TIA !

Well, I bought two different 14" carbide-tipped blades in the past few years for my Milwaukee chop saw - both rated for cutting steel specifically. The first blade was around $100.00 - it cut GREAT for about 4 cuts, then started getting dull very fast & required increased force to cut - it was dangerous. Took that one back to the tool store.

Then I bought another different brand - carbide tipped as well - also around $100.00. That started distorting/wobbling on the first cut - I thought it was going to explode. I think it is the heat that builds with these metal-cutting blades - the composite is the only way to go IF you have to cut steel with a chop saw. Now, all I use is a horizontal band saw that cuts at a low RPM. I'm using a Jet dry-cut with 1/2" bi-metal blade, but about to upgrade to a 3/4" Jet wet band saw.

If you find a steel 14" blade that works, please post about it!! Pay close attention when you are using one - I have not felt safe using them.

I would not use a carbide blade for steel myself.

What is it you want to cut?

I have a 14" Milwaukee dry saw and its been good. The key to blade life is the cut speed, they dull faster if you go slow like with a regular chop saw. Also cutting on a flat surface dulls them faster, if you were cutting a piece of 1/4 x 4 turn it on its edge in the vice so your cutting on the 1/4" side. Not the 4" flat. Also the blades can be sharpened just like a carbide toothed wood cutting blade.

I have been using a Milwaukee dry cut saw for 17 years. It is one of the best tools I have purchased. I use Freud Diablo blades. I cut everything with them. As long as the steel is clean, (no welding slag) I can make hundreds of cuts with a blade. I have cut 2" hydraulic cylinder rod, 1.25" grade 8 bolts, and even 80 lb. railroad track.
A trick I use to keep the blade sharp is to very the material that I cut. Another important tip is to make sure the material is clamped securely. This is very important when making miter cuts.
When cutting, wear safety glasses, ear plugs, and keep your mouth closed!


https://www.amazon.com/Diablo-D1472CF-14-inch-Carbide-Ferrous/dp/B014GN508S

to start with, in my opinion, using a carbide tipped blade on the common chop saw is not a safe practice in any way. those saws spin way too fast.
what i was wondering about, is there a saw out there that is specifically designed to use a carbide tipped blade ?
i have seen some slow rpm saws used to cut metal, but i can't remember where. i was wondering if anyone had any experience with one.
band saws work great, but take up more room.
i have discovered, however, the common chop saw [no matter the diameter] works best with cutting discs between .045 and .062 thicknesses.

My saw is made specifically for a carbide tooth blade. No way I'd use one on a normal chop saw.

Mine. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Saws-and-Cutters/Cut-Off-Machine/6190-20

Shows this saw is no longer available - like years old saw. Also, in looking at the specs on this one, it's 1500 RPM vs. other chop saws that all seem to have 3800 & higher. I did not feel safe cutting with one of the carbide-teeth metal cutting blades at high RPM.

as i have WAY more projects now than i can comfortably handle, if i decide to try one of these saws, i may have to just make one.
providing i can find a good, reasonable HP, around 1000rpm, motor that has the common size shaft that will accept those blades. [7/8-1" ?] adapting it to a pivoting handle and base won't be that hard with the equipment and fab skills i possess.
wouldn't be the first time i have made a power tool or adapted different components to do a specific job.