Hello All,

Yes another useless post by me but I figured I would give an update on the project. We performed a hot valve guide test last night on the 440 stroker engine on the left divers side valves only, no numbers were involved. Yes I told my stepfather it's not the valves it's fuel related but it was after we performed the valve test because he wanted to just to see. We did the test and it is not the valves (like I personally thought). We took the bolts out of the valve cover, started the car, and let it run to about operating temperate, shut it off, then took the valve cover off and did the test with a little bar and piece of wood. Just so happens nothing was tight, but I suggested testing the right side valves also anyways just in case but we did not last night but probably will soon. Also we tripped the starter relay, watched the left side valves, and nothing was sticking or anything from what we saw so we figured if it was that bad we would of thrown a push rod already. We talked to a very good friend this morning and he suggested a couple things such as a performance fuel pump and line and a couple other things.

No post with pictures of a nice looking engine is useless.

Ignition and/or fuel is still where I'd be looking.

Real quick ideas again:

You could install an inline fuel pressure gauge at the carb which would tell you alot.

You could check voltage at coil + in both "start" and "run". If you find both key positions
have less than battery voltage, there's a wiring error.

You already tested for tight valve guides/'assembly hard to operate when hot' by turning the crank bolt
when cold and hot, and not finding much of a difference between the two.

It's all good, though. As long as you're having fun working on it together, keep at it.

Hi All,

I have another update on the stroker Fury for everybody. We tested the right or passengers side of the valves this time to see if they stuck just in case, and just so happens they did not. We also put in another coil to test that and it did not change anything. That said my stepfather talked with a good friend about the car and he suggested getting an MSD Blaster II from Jegs and a new HiRev ECU or brain from Mr. Erenburg (the same person who we got the distributor), and also a Holley Blue fuel electric fuel pump. So we are going to try the MSD Blaster and the HiRev brain, and if THOSE don't fix it then we will try the fuel pump then look into the fuel system.

Im really pulling for you to get it figured out. Your car is so cool. Not modded visually too far from stock but much much more power than stock.

Hi All,

I have an update on the '67 Fury 440 stroker. Nothing done to the car since last time. I however personally bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge from Advance Auto, and Lucas Oil Racing Formula Octane Booster for my stepfather for the car to give him a hint besides telling him that it is the fuel. Here is what I got, and hopefully we will now be going somewhere with this car. But wait there's more, my stepfather took FURYGT's advice and bought an MSD Blaster II coil and a new ECU from Mr. Erenberg. Which by the way these have arrived to our house. So the next thing we will do is put these in and see what the car does, and hopefully these will do the trick. I will keep everyone updated to what happens.....

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-10026/7080088-P?searchTerm=octane+boost

I have only scanned the replies but runs great cold runs poor hot to me sounds like it could be too rich. Can you borrow an exhaust gas analyzer? A LM-1 or LM-2 with one of the adapters to put into the end of the exhaust pipe might tell you a lot.
It sounds like you have done a lot of hard work with little to show for it. Immediately jumping to the pistons are too tight when hot seems like a big leap when there can be so many other reasons for a car to run poorly when warm. What was the coolant temperature when warmed up? If the pistons are that tight I think cutting open the oil filter and looking for a cubic shitload of metal would be a step to take.
I had a MSD Blaster 2 coil, lasted less than 6 months on our 70 Road Runner. Replaced it with a Lucas sport coil and it has worked great ever since. Until the rear frame rail cracked, the boot lid fell off and the rear window fell out but that is not the fault of the coil.

It is a great looking car.

Hi All,

Not to say it out loud but I think we maybe getting somewhere with the '67 Fury 440 stroker engine, I got a bigger update than usual. As I mentioned in my last post, we bought an MSD Blaster II coil and a new HiRev 7500 brain from Mr. Erenberg that a friend recommended. We put the Blaster coil and MSD ballast resistor in, then we WERE going to put in the Erenburg brain BUT we read the instructions first. Good thing we did too, as the brain was not compatible with the MSD coil. According to the instructions the brain needed to be run with a stock coil, so that said we took the MSD coil out BUT left the ballast resistor in then put the brain in.

NOW, we start the car and let it run for about 20 to 25 minutes and it ran very good. Better than it normally does to be honest. We put it in gear while the car was sitting in the garage and normally it dies BUT it didn't this time, which was a good sign. We did this about 2 maybe 3 times and still no stalling. So NOW we take it out for a test drive in the evening when it was cooler out than during the day, we took it to get gas and back home which was about a 10-15 minute drive going and coming back and it ran flawlessly with no stalling. We let it sit at the gas station while we filled it up and let it heat soak, it started right back up with no issue. We are not out of the woods yet though, the true test will be taking it out during a hot 85-90% day and seeing what it does but for now things are looking up for this car.