No, in fact you don't even need a hose.

Gravity works as long as the master cylinder is higher than the bleeder valves
It won't work on my race car, 1970 Cuda tube chassis car or my 1940 ford, pressure or suction only on them due to the master cylinders being lower than the bleeder valves

By doing this, aren't you pushing old fluid into new fluid? Mixing the fluid?

you can buy something similar to the speed bleeders at the parts store.i
it's a rubber line with a check valve.
hose with check valve
works on the same principal as the hose in a bottle of fluid stopping the air from flowing back into the line when the pedal is released.

My helper is usually a 2x4. Pump the brake peddle with the bleeders closed - like your the second body. Wedge the lumber between the brake pedal and the seat frame to hold the pedal down. Crack a bleeder, repeat until no air, move on to next wheel. The only thing ya really need the second body for is to hold the peddle down.

Here's what I use, just pump it up and go to each corner with my Gatorade bottle and a clear plastic tube I make my living with it so the price tag was a little easier to swallow

Gus

OMG Gus, are you selling bogus brake flushes?

HaHaHa we do have a couple writers that try to sell those scams but I mainly bought it because up here in the rust belt we get a fair amount of brake line work. When I do truck frame replacements Toyota gives us all new lines from the ABS actuator to all four corners. It's just much easier to pressurize the system and flush all the rust through the calipers. Time is money

Gus

I usually do the gravity bleed method.
Someone also recently sent me a youtube video where someone used a spray top like from a windex bottle and a hose to hook it up to the bleeder and sprayed into an old container. Sort of like the method when you use a vacuum pump but cheaper.

when i do my 08 mustang i have a Motive pressure bleeder. takes about 10 min to flush the bake fluid after the wheels are off. i have 6 piston calipers in front 4 piston in rear.

ford motive brake bleeder.

for mopars maybe this would do the trick.

motive mopar brake bleeder

I've got one of those too but never used it. Mine has a magnet on the side of the container so you can stick it somewhere where it won't get knocked around.

Never GUESS what Gus is gonna do !

Now jsta how does the BANJOnes do a TOTAL BRAKE FLUSH ??!

I use a vacuum bleeder. But I rarely ever do one and I don't sell them. I spend my days doing major engine repair and replacement.

da gravity bleed, then to finish place board on brake ped, lean wrapped cement block on board leveraging on pedal.

Open furthermost bleeder let fluid or air run, common sense and not being the first time tells you when to close bleeder, go lift block pump ped by hand, repeat.

I can final bleed a whole car alone in about 20 minutes.

Most of use figured this stuff out as a teen with there first mopar.

How do some people manage to breath on there own.

But yet ya cant easily change a cam in a 40 year old rig, what the hell.

I've always gravity bled brakes on my cars, but that wouldn't work on my 2013 Acura SUV with ABS. So I used a hand operated vacuum bleeder to pull out all the old fluid. The result was all new fluid in the system and a pedal with erectile dysfunction, very soft.

Bought 20 ft of clear vinyl tube and ran the hose from each wheel cylinder one by one up to the master while gently pumping the pedal a few hundred times. From the driver seat I could see bubbles traveling up the tube. Problem solved. Took about an hour. This same procedure is said to bleed the master without needing to do bench bleeding.

Each wheel cylinder had one discreet batch of bubbles. Once they were gone, the system was good. The vacuum bleeder obviously had sucked air down the bleeder valve threads. Maybe I should have put grease on the threads? Next time I'll try that.

Sure, I been doing it This way for 30 years with no
Problem. Its a sealed system so where does dirt come from? It is also a liquid, it doesn’t lose any Needed quality's as it ages.

Well, don't concentrate too hard there andy:



lol, OMG typical Moparts Shade Tree Mechanics: Where on Earth is Richard Ehrenberg when you really need him?

I'm not a Mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but, you Dummies do know that the reservoir that is capturing the brake fluid is supposed to be ABOVE the caliper? An air bubble always rises UP. It can't be forced DOWN if the reservoir is above the bleed screw. LOL.

No wonder you guys complain about the brakes on these cars, you don't know what you are doing! My factory brakes will put people through the windshield!

36 replies and 2 of you Clowns have posted incorrect photos of your one-man set-ups.

As usual, someone from another forum will find this thread on google and think Mopar People are clueless, thanks alot.

I use this: (and I wire it above the brakes)

Why do you wire it above the brakes, gravity doesn't flow well uphilll