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Re: Driveshaft Loop ? [Re: 383man] #2778267
05/26/20 08:43 AM
05/26/20 08:43 AM
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,314
Ohio
J
jlatessa Offline
pro stock
jlatessa  Offline
pro stock
J

Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,314
Ohio
I would think if the loop touches the tunnel and you bent a maybe 1/8" X 2" wide piece to conform to the tunnel inside
the car, bolted to the loop, it would be pretty secure.

We used two pieces similar to help the type we have on our Charger.

Joe

Re: Driveshaft Loop ? [Re: jlatessa] #2779156
05/28/20 04:59 PM
05/28/20 04:59 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,095
Idaho
Runner Offline
master
Runner  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,095
Idaho
i've always just made them. 2 inch piece of 6x1/4 pip and some 2x1/4 flat bar. weld them together and you can either bolt them to the floor or if you have subframe connectors just weld a bracket to the connectors and bolt the loop to it. cost is under 20 bucks

Re: Driveshaft Loop ? [Re: 383man] #2779257
05/28/20 08:50 PM
05/28/20 08:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,947
Oregon
A
AndyF Offline
I Win
AndyF  Offline
I Win
A

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,947
Oregon
The chassis shop that worked on my Duster made a loop out of tubing (meets NHRA rules) and then welded it into the floor. The floor was slit and the loop was pushed up into it and then welded back together. Simple and strong.

DSC_3670 (Large).JPG
Re: Driveshaft Loop ? [Re: AndyF] #2779280
05/28/20 10:16 PM
05/28/20 10:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,440
NW Chicago suburban area
Mopar Mitch Offline
pro stock
Mopar Mitch  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,440
NW Chicago suburban area
I've actually just finished installing the bolt-in design (to the trans cross member)... purchased from Mancini... into my Challenger. There are two different designs... the first design has the DS loop as a 1-piece round circle; the later design has the DS loop as a 2-piece 8-flat sided bolt together design (supposed to be a better design for convenience in assembly and dis-assembly with the top hole of the loop being bolted to the floor (drilling the hole into the floor is required... if so desired).

The steel is 1/4" thick everywhere. I weighed the assembly and its at 10 pounds (with all the bolts/nuts).

The assembly takes a little time for adjusting the fitment... took me one evening.... determining the variable overall assembled length, as well as the assembly of top or bottom plate mountings, and the included spacer shim if needed.

The unit is approved by NHRA for racing, per literature and Mancini's advertisement.

The only problem with the piece is that the front plate that attaches to the trans cross member will need a clearance v-cut for the S-hook of the emergency cable. The front main unit could have been made at about 1/4"-3/8" less in height... it hangs a bit lower than the crossmember. As I made v-cut in the center, the S-hook will now clear.

Note: I actually have an extra same unit (later 2-piece loop), still brand new... willing to sell... PM to me if interested.


Mopar Mitch "Road racers and autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder!"... and rain never stops us from having fun with our cars... in fact, it makes us better drivers! Check out MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, August 2006 issue for feature article and specs on my autocross T/A!
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