I had a chevy do the same thing, would run fine when cold and then when hot it would turn into a dog. Was hard to start when hot. Turned out the coil was bad, changed it and all was good.


Joe

The car has a phenolic bodied carb spacer, and a phenolic bodied Demon carburetor on it also so it dissipates heat better.

I agree with lewtot184 to check integrity of fuel delivery system. Road salt and sand accumulation where the steel fuel line runs along the frame rails and under front suspension rusted fuel line producing pin holes in the line covered with debri. Line would never hold a real vacuum.Mechanical pump couldn't produce enough vacuum to pump fuel at low speed when warmed up. It happend to a police vehicle (Mopar) while driving in a parade. Very imbarrassing for the officer,when it died out several times.
Porous fuel lines,neoprene or steel,can fool you. Same for a clogged sending unit sock, or lack of tank venting. Early vehicles, alot of times relied on venting provisions inthe fuel tank cap itself.You can verifythe lack of venting by running the vehicle without the cap on after the car has warmed up.If car operates correctly at that point, you have wrong gas cap plugged tank vent tube.Be sure to also check sock tube on fuel sender on an older car that has set for a while, it has fooled many Bill

So was there any signs of pistons scuffing as I metal transfer? When you called in the experts did they square up the bores and sign off on "well that was the cause" How was the valve lash at running temp? The 440 Source heads sounds like a strange part addition since Nick was an Indy head guy. But since your dad was paying the bill I guess he put on what he wanted

Gus

Here are some more pictures of the engine....

One more picture......

Yes there was scuffing but very very minimal and don't believe that caused the problem, our mechanic took the oil pan off the engine and said he "leaned towards" honing the cylinders, and another friend of ours also suggested honing the cylinders as well like we did

Nick set all that up and it was not touched since then

That would be correct my stepfather wanted the 440 source heads.

The car does not have a sending unit sock

We honed out the cylinders .003" and it still does not run

too many unknowns here. what does it mean the car doesn't run?

what is the initial timing set at? are you running an electronic distributor or points? is the distributor in 180 degrees? is there a thermostat in the car? if yes take it out. what carb is on the car now? take the throttle cable off the carb. I just ran across this on another site where the throttle cable was hanging up pulling the throttle blades open exposing the idle slots and making the mixture screws in effective. how many different problems are we fighting here. so lets take it one at a time.

also hopefully you didn't hone a full .003 out of the cylinders that's a ton. telescoping gages are not the way to measure the bores.

I've had them do that too.

Just remember....air, fuel, spark, compression. That's all it needs.
The odds of it losing compression and air are slim.
It's most likely losing fuel or spark.

Check for fuel spark with the condition duplicated.

Quick test for ballast resistor equipped stuff, multimeter required:
Check coil + voltage key in start vs. key in run. Should have battery voltage in "start", should be around 9v or slightly less depending on ballast value with key in "run". If you've got less than battery voltage with the key in "start" then you're probably on the right track. (This is a pretty common wiring error).

I love the car! Does he live near you - would love to meet him and see the car when I visit my mom.......

My first thought was fuel and the second ignition. You can't rule out fuel pressure unless you have a pressure gauge . Does it have a fuel pressure gauge? My 67 Coronet street car was running out of fuel and to diagnose it I temporarily tied a fuel pressure gauge to the wiper - it told me that my pressure was dropping to near zero on acceleration - was temperature dependant.

You could have an ignition box, pickup or ignition coil failing when it gets hot.

If the pistons were too tight in the wall, I would expect that would be easy to test by trying to turn the motor over with a breaker bar when hot. Should be noticeably harder to turn over. And it should turn over noticeably slower with the starter.

Fuel is vaporizing in that steel line between the pump and the carb. If you are still running the electric fuel pump, try bypassing the mechanical pump. A stroker motor should have 3/8" fuel line run from tank to carb.

The above are my initial thoughts too.
Coil, distributor pickup, fuel delivery problem when hot, etc.

To answer you questions Mr. Jerry we do not remember what the initial timing is set at, we are running an electronic distributor, the distributor not at 180 degrees, there is a thermostat in the car although you cannot see it in my pictures, the carb that is on it right now is a 750 cfm Demon, and unfortunately yes we did indeed hone the cylinders to .003.

Thank you we appreciate that. Yes sir he does.

I think your chasing the wrong thing to fix, take your time to figure out exactly what is causing it to not run good when warmed up
I'm not sure where you live or where the car was driven in it life but you could have a grounding problem with the car or ignition system, works good cold and then heats up and then doesn't work good
Good luck, keep us in the loop, we, you and all of us on here, will be glad to help you find, identify and fix the problems

Are the pistons cast or forged? In one bore you have .002 interference.