got it done

Where is the damaged & repainted area & how large ?
Is it lacquer-checking, or is there material under the paint that's cracking ?
Of course, OEM was acrylic enamel, but it could be that lacquer was used on the repair.

I'd tend to agree, single-stage would be more accurate than BC/CC in terms of "depth".
Yellows were traditionally tough to match, and the original toners may be discontinued, but maybe that's not a problem.
Sounds like a really cool car, and I'd think the least invasive repair or alteration is important.

middle of the door. big enough that can't spot it in. I would guess at least foot diameter if not more. it appears a filler issue as does not look like cracking from laq paint.

I totally agree with Topside. I wonder if there is any original mix enamel or lacquer out there you could get your hands on. that would be the best but maybe impossible to find, That said, I do see them pop up on occasion.

As a CYA on the repair and cost, better get a look at the backside of the door panel just in case there's some other underlying issue.

I'd sure consider back-taping at the upper body line for a couple reasons:
Avoiding having to wrestle the glass, ventframe, etc.
Viewed from above, it would leave the same original color, if I understand correctly.

I'd sure love to see a ton of photos of such a low-mileage car...

Could a borescope let you peek inside without having to mess with the door panel?

Not really, you'd have to drop the glass down.
Gonna have to pull the door handle & lock cylinder anyway, trim panel's no big deal.
My point is to look around for hammer marks, "bondo-worms" & etc.

Maybe buff that side real nice before you take the car to the paint store to get the color scanned. It's gonna be tough to get it to not stick out like a sore thumb since you have to paint the whole door. You'll almost have to blend onto the quarter and fender. Before you get to the point of blending, maybe save some good paint on the door to play with blending before the money shot.....just to check the paint match. I'd about bet you're gonna find rust under the old filler, that is pushing the filler loose. Everybody put filler straight over the metal back then. Epoxy primer eliminates that problem nowadays! Good luck to you!

Pretty sure Delstar is a dead duck.

I tried to buy some last month, sure looks like they killed the product. Get it while you can/if you can.

It probably would have been the best choice for what I wanted to do.
Now: total re-think required

https://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refi...inish-Obsolescence-Notice-Delstar-Produc

yep delstar is dead. Did the spray out of the delstar he still has and it is to green.. tried the shopline enamel. Its close but still little green/muddy. Going to play around with tinting that and see what we come up with.

also took the door panel off. Been off before so came off really nice. No worms on the back side and barely any sign of a dent so my bet is it was not real bad when it was fixed in 69.

Good body shop has a camera like scanner- plugs into computer - spits ou paint to match- never perfect- but original paint now won't match the faded original paint. A good paiter will change tints to get it to match- Friend who is a pinter spayed 19 cards till he was happy...... The car is a 72 Scamp with 17000 miles- Honeydew color- realy hard to match- a little more shiny....

got it just about dead on according to my spray out card. have to check with customer if he wants pics on the web or not. Hope to dig into it later this week.

What did you figure out worked best?
Matt

I have a great relationship with my paint jobber. They have as far as I am concerned the best color guy around the area. He took shopline enamel and tinted and adjusted the color. They will not tint any shopline but when they knew what i was faced with they did it. We sprayed out some delstar the customer had mixed up a few years ago. That while touching things up looked really nice when sprayed out was way off. So we took the shopline enamel and sprayed that out. Still not close. He took a marker light bezel and worked the color. Customer was put and verified the color looked great to him. I dug into it today. Found the dealership in 69 had repaired the area which consisted of 3 small quarter size dents. Then primed the bare metal with red oxide primer. The primer was what was lifting off the metal. Got it all feathered out what they put on. Now plan to prime it with PPG DP50LV primers. Then repair the dents and then apply surfacer.

An old boss of mine has a 70 Torino Cobra his dad bought new. Same kind of deal as the car you're working on. It was delivered by rail and someone threw rocks at it. It needed the door repainted before it was sold. Back in the late 90's it was still in original paint. You could see the repairs bleeding through on the door.