Except for the bowl vents pointing back down.

I have a List 8572, 4150 Vacuum sec, 715 CFM, Electric choke.
Same venturiis and butterflies as an 800. Downleg boosters, look normal size.
72 / 84 jets, primary 8.5 PV.

CFM rating seems low, but that's another topic,

Are marine carbs typically calibrated on the rich side ?

Usually there is also a nipple (looks like a vacuum port) on the top of the carb going into it above the throttle blades. Normally have a clear fuel line attached from the mechanical fuel pump to the port on the carb. If the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump goes bad the leaking fuel will get pulled into the carb. If you observe fuel in the line it lets you know the pump is leaking.

I'm not sure about CFM ratings being different from automotive, but they should be jetted richer than an automotive carb. Extra fuel will help a marine engine keep the EGT's down under the higher load conditions.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

I think the main thing that makes a carburetor have the "marine" classification is it certification by the U.S,. Coast Guard
Which I'm sure is about carb fires and that carb being safe to run on a boat

I probably have bad info (likely some Mopar rag), but extra measures are taken to account for salt water corrosion.

My boat has been insected by the CG and they dont look at the carb itself but you better
have a flame suppressor on it,, I dont know of any special anti salt water carb.. my boat is a
fresh water boat but I have worked on plenty of salt water boats.. their big thing is they have
a heat exchanger to cool

flame arresters on vents (screen), no outside venting (fills up bilge with fumes), approved by Coast Guard, twice as much money as non-marine
not a where of any anti-corrosion

The screen is pretty specific as to sizing and material (sorry, I don't know the data).
It works on a principle invented by Sir Humphrey Davies in the 19th century to prevent coal mine explosions. There is always very fine coal dust in the air, and an open lamp (oil, acetylene, etc.) flame will set it off.
The improved "safety" lamp has a fine metal screen shielding the flame itself. It prevents the propagation of a dust flame inside the screen from passing through and blowing up the mine by losing its heat to the screen itself.
If you're going to make one, try to get as close to a real one as possible, especially as to mesh size. Too large a screen opening will do no good, and probably get noticed by CG.

Because of the vent tube arrangement the calibration can be a bit different. anything that can affect bowl pressure can change the calibration needed.