Okay guys, lend me your expertise. Stock front suspension 69 Dart. Slant 6 torsion bars, old school 90/10 shocks, good zero toe alignment. I can coast from the stripe to the turn-out with my hands off the wheel, and this thing won't wander an inch off course. It rolls very easy. Only the very best stocker guys would fail to be impressed at how easy this car rolls. I have 6" of front end travel from rest, and I have about 1/4" total camber change (measured at the top of the tire) from rest to top of travel.
Now, the front end moves fairly easily, but I'm not convinced I'm getting the full meal deal. My gut, and playing around with the floor jack, tells me that I might free up the travel by backing off the strut rods a bit. Is this a bad idea? I'm thinking loosening it up one turn, and seeing what effect that has.
The car seems to like extra travel. I've seen that it consistently picks up in the 60' when I lower the nose with the T-bars, to a point. I believe there's some ET to be found in this thing in maximizing the front end travel. Thoughts?
FWIW- I've also swapped my M1 back to the old Weiand X-Terminator intake to see what happens. I put the M1 on when I swapped to a roller, and the car's no quicker. I'll see what that brings.

You measured the camber change at lift, but what is the tow in change at lift?

How about fuel delivery, can you fatten the carb. up enough to slow the MPH down in the 1/4 mile?
If not you need to fix that

Need to know more about the combo. The quicker the car the slower the front travel needs to be. So being "free" may not matter in the least. Same with travel. Unless it has trouble hooking, it may not need 6".
Doug

The strut keeps the lower control arm fixed during braking and suspension travel. Too much play in the strut bushing will let the caster change, and may be dangerous to drive. I replaced my strut bushings with heim joints. You get more positive caster, lose weight, and it made car drive really nice. I use a wallace calculator to compare 60 foot with my ET. usually there is a direct relationship between the two.



https://p-s-t.com/n-11824-mopar-adjustable-strut-rods-for-a-b-and-e-body-mopars.html

The toe change through the travel is pretty minimal. When I set the car up, I got pretty lucky there. Right now, the car 60 foots 1.55-1.60, runs 7.25-7.40 in the 1/8. 92-94 mph. I've played with bar locations on my 4-link, and I really haven't seen any changes to how it launches no matter where the bars are located. It hooks nice. I run 16 psi in a 9 x 30 radial slick. I think there's some ET left in how it leaves. I saw a decent vid of the launch, and the front end seems "lazy" on the hit.

Do not loosen the strut rods as mentioned. With a 4 link running this ET you can more than likely tighten up the shocks and reduce travel. The 90/10 are probably too loose. 60ft for that ET isn't bad. If it's already dead hooking, you are wasting energy with unnecessary chassis movement. It could probably take more tire pressure as well, 18-20.
Doug

When my Dart had the the 340 in it that's pretty close to what it ran. 7.25-7.30, 92-94 mph, 60' was normally 1.52-1.56.

Thanks for the input. I won't mess with the rods. Carb, tire pressue, and 4-link adjustments will be it.